You perfect bike.

[MichaelW2]

With any hub gear bike, the key component is chain tensioning mechanism:
Spring loaded chain mech: strictly for retro fit.
Ecccentric BB: avoid set screws. Ensure wedge mechanisms work in both directions to secure and release the eccentric. Bolt clamps need to be strong.
Horizontal dropouts. Simple. Does it work with disks.
Sliding verical dropouts. Probably the best.
Split rear triangle. Permits belt drive.

The rest of the wish list is typical modern euro/global touring bike.

 

[si_c]

Horizontal dropouts. Simple. Does it work with disks.

Simple answer, no.

 

[ColinJ]

You can do a lot with a big messenger bag, but not 6 pints of milk and a box of washing powder.

I agree with the rest of the post that was quoted from but I regularly go to the shops on my singlespeed bike and buy a large amount of shopping which I carry in a 35 litre rucksack. I have sometimes had 11-12 kg of goods in that. 6 pints of milk and a 2.5 kg box of washing powder... No problem! Panniers would be better though.

A good touring bike could be okay for many types of riding but not 'perfect'. Too heavy for competitive hill climbing and not suitable for extreme offroad descending etc. I have seen touring bikes going up and down steep off road trails so I know it can be done, but I would prefer to be on a mountain bike. OTOH, I would rather do a road tour on a touring bike.

I reckon a gravel/adventure/cyclo-cross bike with rack and mudguard provision could do a lot. Chunky semi-slick tyres, mudguards and racks fitted for touring, shopping or general riding in mixed conditions. Bigger gnarlier tyres for rougher conditions. Remove the rack and mudguards and fit good 28c slick tyres for a sporty 2 week holiday somewhere with very good weather and excellent road surfaces. In an ideal world, have 3 pairs of wheels for rapid swapping between the 3 tyre types?

 

[si_c]

I agree with the rest of the post that was quoted from but I regularly go to the shops on my singlespeed bike and buy a large amount of shopping which I carry in a 35 litre rucksack. I have sometimes had 11-12 kg of goods in that. 6 pints of milk and a 2.5 kg box of washing powder... No problem! Panniers would be better though.

A good touring bike could be okay for many types of riding but not 'perfect'. Too heavy for competitive hill climbing and not suitable for extreme offroad descending etc. I have seen touring bikes going up and down steep off road trails so I know it can be done, but I would prefer to be on a mountain bike. OTOH, I would rather do a road tour on a touring bike.

I reckon a gravel/adventure/cyclo-cross bike with rack and mudguard provision could do a lot. Chunky semi-slick tyres, mudguards and racks fitted for touring, shopping or general riding in mixed conditions. Bigger gnarlier tyres for rougher conditions. Remove the rack and mudguards and fit good 28c slick tyres for a sporty 2 week holiday somewhere with very good weather and excellent road surfaces. In an ideal world, have 3 pairs of wheels for rapid swapping between the 3 tyre types?

I've found the limit of a rucksack is it's physical dimensions rather than the weight you can put in it. I have carried 8 pints of milk and a load of tin cans, fruit etc and a loaf of bread in the "helmet carrier" on my rucksack quite comfortably. Small dense items tend to be easier than an 18 roll pack of bog roll. Although having said that I've used the helmet carrier to carry a full sized 700c wheelset back from the bike shop before now (about 4 miles).

That's not to say that a heavy ruck sack makes for a thoroughly enjoyable ride (hip and sternum straps make life much better) but if properly packed the weight is not an issue for a few miles.

 

[ColinJ]

I've found the limit of a rucksack is it's physical dimensions rather than the weight you can put in it. I have carried 8 pints of milk and a load of tin cans, fruit etc and a loaf of bread in the "helmet carrier" on my rucksack quite comfortably. Small dense items tend to be easier than an 18 roll pack of bog roll. Although having said that I've used the helmet carrier to carry a full sized 700c wheelset back from the bike shop before now (about 4 miles).

That's not to say that a heavy ruck sack makes for a thoroughly enjoyable ride (hip and sternum straps make life much better) but if properly packed the weight is not an issue for a few miles.

All true.

Aldi opened a store a comfortable walking distance from me so I tend to stroll round there to buy lower density bulky shopping one or two items at a time as required. If I am shopping at more distant Lidl or buying denser shopping it would be by bike/rucksack.

 

[si_c]

All true.

Aldi opened a store a comfortable walking distance from me so I tend to stroll round there to buy lower density bulky shopping one or two items at a time as required. If I am shopping at more distant Lidl or buying denser shopping it would be by bike/rucksack.

We have an Aldi about a half mile from us, so easily walkable, but I'm lazy and I have to walk past my bike on the way out so I usually take that. Other supermarkets are a couple of miles away, so again walkable, but it's much easier to ride. We tend to get bulk home delivery of dry goods, as if you pick a delivery window carefully you can usually get it for not much more than it would cost to drive in fuel, plus I'm home all day at the moment with work so it's easier.

 

[GuyBoden]

I regularly go to the shops on my singlespeed bike and buy a large amount of shopping which I carry in a 35 litre rucksack. I have sometimes had 11-12 kg of goods in that. 6 pints of milk and a 2.5 kg box of washing powder... No problem! Panniers would be better though.

Panniers are indeed better, if you have pannier frame mountings. Possibly, maybe, rucksacks and badbacks could possibly be related. It does seem to rhyme.

 

[Blue Hills]

With any hub gear bike, the key component is chain tensioning mechanism:
Spring loaded chain mech: strictly for retro fit.
Ecccentric BB: avoid set screws. Ensure wedge mechanisms work in both directions to secure and release the eccentric. Bolt clamps need to be strong.
Horizontal dropouts. Simple. Does it work with disks.
Sliding verical dropouts. Probably the best.
Split rear triangle. Permits belt drive.

The rest of the wish list is typical modern euro/global touring bike.

wot's so simple about horizontal dropouts?
Have always avoided.

 

[MichaelW2]

wot's so simple about horizontal dropouts?
Have always avoided.

No mechanism or moving parts. Traditional 3 speeds use them.

 

[rogerzilla]

Horizontal dropouts fell out of favour with MTBs, because a bike with a small granny ring can pull over the rear wheel. Even on a road bike with a 39T small ring, you need a pretty hefty QR if you have *chromed* horizontal dropouts.

 

[MichaelW2]

Horizontal dropouts fell out of favour with MTBs, because a bike with a small granny ring can pull over the rear wheel. Even on a road bike with a 39T small ring, you need a pretty hefty QR if you have *chromed* horizontal dropouts.

Simple but not neccessarily good.
My touring bike has horizontal dropouts to use if the rear mech gets damaged. It works OK in regular use but the cassette removal tool NBT2 doesnt play well wuth H dropouts.

 

[Blue Hills]

No mechanism or moving parts. Traditional 3 speeds use them.

my vertical dropouts don't have any moving parts as far as I'm aware.
That's what I like about them - anything shoved in them won't move either.

 

[rogerzilla]

Well...Campag "road ends" do have moving adjusters, originally for maintaining the freewheel to upper jockey wheel spacing when replacing the rear wheel. The B-tension screw provides another way to do that nowadays, but it's nice if the rear wheel goes back in the same each time.

 

[biggs682]

No such thing as a perfect bike , cause if there was we would all only own one bike and can you see that happening

 

[Gunk]

I reckon a gravel/adventure/cyclo-cross bike with rack and mudguard provision could do a lot. Chunky semi-slick tyres, mudguards and racks fitted for touring, shopping or general riding in mixed conditions. Bigger gnarlier tyres for rougher conditions. Remove the rack and mudguards and fit good 28c slick tyres for a sporty 2 week holiday somewhere with very good weather and excellent road surfaces.

That basically describes my set up.