Cyclist33
Guest
- Location
- Warrington
funny how it says SLOW in big letters on the road... is it acceptable for cyclists to ignore that then?
Your best speed on descent ?
- Thread starter Milzy
- Start date
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48mph is the best I have seen, may have been quicker but my eye's tend to blur up at this sort of speed. I must admit that I was at the time I hit that speed being overtaken by Geoff Platts who went on to win the event. This speed was also on a hill in Lincolnshire so do not believe what they all say about it being flat.
As an after thought for a bit of fun last Friday I opened the legs up on a section with a bit of back wind and hit 36.9 (true speed not internet) Great fun and something I have not done for many years.
As an after thought for a bit of fun last Friday I opened the legs up on a section with a bit of back wind and hit 36.9 (true speed not internet) Great fun and something I have not done for many years.
Velo711
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
74 kph, Ellicotville, New York State.
Matthew_T
"Young and Ex-whippet"
- Location
- Prestatyn, North Wales
Really? Where?
Boris Bajic
Guest
46mph on the Malvrn Hills - various descents all give me the same maximum. I'm not fast, but I've tried to be in the past. Nonetheless, some tips as requested:
1. If you're going to tuck, practice first at lower speeds. It changes the weight distribution and the way the bike moves under you.
2. Be jolly sure (as on all rides) that everything is straight and tight. Everything!
3. If you want a 'max', do it on a hill you know. You'll know where it's bumpy, where a side wind can move you across the carriageway and where the side roads are. It's all good knowledge at over 40mph.
4. I find the drops offer less sense of stability. I cannot explain this as I see everyone else uses them. I ride fast descents on the hoods, with my forearms parallel to the road and my head right down. It looks silly, but it feels safer.
5. Gearing plays a part. On my 'quicker' machine, I have 53/12 on 700c 23s and my max is about 130rpm. I can't really 'push' over that cadence, so to go much faster I'd need a steeper hill. I can do silly cadences on my fixie, but that's me keeping up with the wheels, not pushing the pedals.
6. Pick your time: High winds can have an unsettling effect on big hills. Also, if it's a 'pretty' area (which many big hills are), then avoid times when the day-trippers are out. I'm casual about close passes, but less casual about getting them at 40-ish mph.
7. If you're scared, ease off. Some days I am just scared. I can't explain it, but some days my head is not right for going fast. It's more terror than fear. Other days, it feels like a stroll to the shops. I need to be relaxed to go fast (even in my own modest understanding of the term). If you feel too much fear, back out.
8. If it gets wobbly, do not tense up. Relax. Sometimes this has to be a conscious decision, as the brain somehow makes us tense up to hold the bars straight. There are other tricks, too. I've never had speed wobble while pedalling.
9. Not in a built-up area.
1. If you're going to tuck, practice first at lower speeds. It changes the weight distribution and the way the bike moves under you.
2. Be jolly sure (as on all rides) that everything is straight and tight. Everything!
3. If you want a 'max', do it on a hill you know. You'll know where it's bumpy, where a side wind can move you across the carriageway and where the side roads are. It's all good knowledge at over 40mph.
4. I find the drops offer less sense of stability. I cannot explain this as I see everyone else uses them. I ride fast descents on the hoods, with my forearms parallel to the road and my head right down. It looks silly, but it feels safer.
5. Gearing plays a part. On my 'quicker' machine, I have 53/12 on 700c 23s and my max is about 130rpm. I can't really 'push' over that cadence, so to go much faster I'd need a steeper hill. I can do silly cadences on my fixie, but that's me keeping up with the wheels, not pushing the pedals.
6. Pick your time: High winds can have an unsettling effect on big hills. Also, if it's a 'pretty' area (which many big hills are), then avoid times when the day-trippers are out. I'm casual about close passes, but less casual about getting them at 40-ish mph.
7. If you're scared, ease off. Some days I am just scared. I can't explain it, but some days my head is not right for going fast. It's more terror than fear. Other days, it feels like a stroll to the shops. I need to be relaxed to go fast (even in my own modest understanding of the term). If you feel too much fear, back out.
8. If it gets wobbly, do not tense up. Relax. Sometimes this has to be a conscious decision, as the brain somehow makes us tense up to hold the bars straight. There are other tricks, too. I've never had speed wobble while pedalling.
9. Not in a built-up area.
goody
Veteran
- Location
- Carshalton
Yes.
classic33
Leg End Member
You'll have noticed the junction off to the right, I take it.
That's interesting - I did the Kirklees Sportive/Brian Robinson Challenge on 2 successive years with the same rider and he got a severe shimmy both times, 3/4 of the way down that descent!
I was doing 50 mph down there once when a gust of crosswind blew me across the road and almost off the RHS! I slowed down after that ...
Yes the cross wind can be a bit harsh up there, the bike was a Raleigh 531 it didn't shimmy all the time it was a strange beast and would scare me to death when it it happened, the shimmy experience, the crosswind, the right hander at the bottom always on my mind at speed, have turned this descent into a cautious one for me, well all that plus old age
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
When my mate first had the problem, I had stopped on the summit of Holme Moss to put my cycling glasses back on (they had steamed up on the climb). As a result, I was doing the descent about 200 yards behind him. He was bombing down at 50 mph but started fishtailing as he turned into that RH bend. I caught up very rapidly and shot past him as he braked to a halt. I waited for him at the junction with the A628 and he eventually turned up, ashen-faced and still shaking! The shimmy had almost thrown him off the bike.Yes the cross wind can be a bit harsh up there, the bike was a Raleigh 531 it didn't shimmy all the time it was a strange beast and would scare me to death when it it happened, the shimmy experience, the crosswind, the right hander at the bottom always on my mind at speed, have turned this descent into a cautious one for me, well all that plus old age
The crazy thing was that it happened to him again on the same event at the same place, one year later! I think it must have been due to the way he rode his bike.
I had no problem at all but I do the things that control potential shimmy before it can occur (avoid death-grip on bars, press one knee against the top tube, keep my arms and knees bent and raise my weight slightly off the saddle).
Matthew_T
"Young and Ex-whippet"
- Location
- Prestatyn, North Wales
I am trying to get a faster and faster speed down this hill: http://app.strava.com/activities/59212564#1101198578
Today I reached 45mph down it, before I have hit 46mph. I really want to beat 50mph but that will probably happen with a bit of a tailwind or on a quiet night ride.
Today I reached 45mph down it, before I have hit 46mph. I really want to beat 50mph but that will probably happen with a bit of a tailwind or on a quiet night ride.
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
I found that drinking loads of beer and getting fat really helped on the downhills!
(Not so great on the uphills though ...
)
Hip Priest
Veteran
When I'm on a fast descent, I tend to picture my fork snapping and imagine myself landing on my face at 40mph plus, and then my left hand involuntarily reaches for the brake. I think I need that Team Sky fella to sort out my inner chimp.
Ningishzidda
Senior Member
The sole reason why the council paints "SLOW" on the road is because someone has died in a RTA 100m further along. Like at that junction to the right.
Ningishzidda
Senior Member
Get a short length of 3/4" dia broomstick. Wrap it with tape until it can only be forced up the steerer tube. Drill through using the front brake holes as a guide.
When you re-assemble the front brake, its bolt will pass through the timber. Then, if the fork crown comes adrift, you will notice it but the timber will hold the fork crown to the steerer tube.
