I think the bit 'in the middle' is a 'steady' and the end has a fixed tool for simple parallel turning (posts etc) as it is very difficult to turn a long section of wood straight with a chisel, up to a foot or even eighteen inches is relatively easy but 3-4 foot is a pain ( the trick I was taught was to use a very finely set Block Plane freehand at a 30 or so degree angle but that was on a 4 foot taper)Whats the bit in the middle ? A follower ? The bit on the end is also interesting .
Have a look at Del Stubbs’ knives at Pinewood Forge. His are the best I’ve ever used. For an efficient knife, I want the bowl profile and edge profile to match. Best way for finishing cuts at any rate. Any curved blade will do the roughing out and wasting of bowl chips.@Hill Wimp @woodenspoons
Do you use one of those hook knives to hollow the bowl part of the spoon? I'm about to make some working (rough) carving/whittling knives and thought I would have a go at a hook knife as well. I'm after some dimensions and edge geometry information.
Thanks.
I do, mine is a Robin Wood one. When I did my spoon carving day course the instructor was really interested to use my Robin Wood as apparently is different to a lot of others. @woodenspoons would probably know why.@Hill Wimp @woodenspoons
Do you use one of those hook knives to hollow the bowl part of the spoon? I'm about to make some working (rough) carving/whittling knives and thought I would have a go at a hook knife as well. I'm after some dimensions and edge geometry information.
Thanks.
Robin makes two kinds, I believe. The more interesting one is his compound curve shape, where the curve radius gets tighter around the knife. This is a good shape for all spoon bowl carving throughout the process.I do, mine is a Robin Wood one. When I did my spoon carving day course the instructor was really interested to use my Robin Wood as apparently is different to a lot of others. @woodenspoons would probably know why.
Remember you will be using the blade in your hand at times with close detail work, or for certain cuts. The ideal whittler wants only one sharp edge, with everything else smoothed over, or you will soon get sick of using it.
Are you keeping the steel cooled as you cut? Tool steel?
I'd go for a through blade and split riveted handle,Here's a first look at my prototype carving knives. They aren't perfect but they will be put to use so I will see if I need to make any changes.
View attachment 461277
Maybe I need to move the blade up a bit? So that the back of the blade is closer to the top of the handle. The brass is there to cover the tang hole. I don't have a lathe so cannot use the tailstock to drill a hole. There is a brass pin through the handle and tang to allow for a more secure fit. The handles are shaped to be handed. They fit well into my hand and are comfortable to hold. I'll put an edge on them and see how they carve. Blade length is around 70mm.