My question, re how bone-shaking it was, was motivated by concern with how my panniers will put up with it: I've got Ortliebs but I do worry that being shaken about must put some horrible stresses on the mountings.
I didn't have any problems with my panniers (altura orkneys I think) but I did lose my sleeping bag once which was bungeed to my rack - it was shaken off.
Regarding traffic on the bealach na ba - there were definitely no camper vans and there wasn't too much traffic but we did have to wait for things to pass, which was actually a blessing in disguise as we could have a breather...the traffic tended to come in bunches of 3 or 4 cars as several had caught up a slow one on the way up.
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