Autumn/Winter Maintenance

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panpipe

New Member
I've been commuting in London for a few weeks now and today got my first preview of what it's going to be like when the weather starts turning nasty!

I've only got the one bike - a Trek 1.5 WSD - which is probably not that suited to autumn/winter commuting! Is there anything I can do maintenance-wise to look after it so it doesn't get too mucked up with mud/rain in the components etc?

Answers in a 'maintenance for dummies' style please...!
 
Location
Edinburgh
Look after the bits that make you go, stop and see.

Bits to Go: Keep the chain clean & lubed on a regular basis using the Mickle method
Bits to Stop: Assuming rim brakes, clean the tracks and check for wear on the blocks. Replace as required. If disks, I have no idea.
Bits to See: Check your lights regularly. Carry spare batteries (& bulbs).
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
Further to Touches points regarding the brakes...and this is very important particually in wet mucky weather....i remove the brake blocks and inspect them for flint, stone etc that gets embedded in the rubber.
Dig out the debris with a stanley knife (thats what i do anyway), then re-fit.

I didnt do this on a previous bike and ignored the scraping sound when i was braking....and fairly scoured the braking surface on the rims. Potentially, you could ruin them altogether.
 

Lambchop

New Member
Location
Home Counties
Now would be a good time to do a full degrease on your bike and then reapply a wax based lubricant to all of the moving parts in preparation for autumn/winter. I did mine recently and it is amazing the difference in feel, let alone appearance!

I use a standard car polish/wax on my frame. It makes wiping off everyday road film so much easier.. Some people swear by pledge or mr sheen type polish.
 

knonist

New Member
Btw, make sure u got some decent wheels for the winter.
you might need more grip and definitely no flats during winter.

mud guards would be handy too
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
knonist said:
Btw, make sure u got some decent wheels for the winter.
you might need more grip and definitely no flats during winter.

mud guards would be handy too


Did you mean tyres knonist ? If so, i'd agree.
Getting a puncture in the summers a mild irritation...(actually, i enjoy doing punctures)
Getting one in the depths of winters a bloody nightmare, especially if your tyres are tight on the rims. I once had to call someone to collect me 10 miles from home...i'd punctured, numb hands, lots of cussing and getting colder by the minute :laugh:...enoughs enough !!!
 
OP
OP
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panpipe

New Member
Thanks all for your replies so far.

Lambchop - not sure if I'd need to de- and re-grease just yet, the bike is only a month old so is still in fairly decent nick. I just want to keep it that way and not ruin it with winter crud!

I may look into tyres and mudguards too - at least my backside would thank me for the latter after getting soaked with road spray yesterday!

Actually if I look at getting all the above I may as well look for a cheapy 2nd hand commuter for work and keep the Trek for weekend rides! Uh oh...looks like I may be succumbing to the 'n+1' theory...
 

knonist

New Member
the feel of trek is so different to the others.
I used to ride a "cheap" hybrid (>£200) to work, and I was happy with it for 2 yrs.
and then i changed to a trek fx, it changed my riding experience completely.

Just use your trek as much as you can. At the end of the day, a bike is designed to be use not sitting at home as a display unit.

decent tyres cost about £45/ pair, mud guards £20, repair kit and spare tube to carry with £15-20, hand pump £15, chain oil £4, WD40 for general cleaning (wipe not spray on parts), and rags.
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
knonist said:
the feel of trek is so different to the others.
I used to ride a "cheap" hybrid (>£200) to work, and I was happy with it for 2 yrs.
and then i changed to a trek fx, it changed my riding experience completely.

Just use your trek as much as you can. At the end of the day, a bike is designed to be use not sitting at home as a display unit.

decent tyres cost about £45/ pair, mud guards £20, repair kit and spare tube to carry with £15-20, hand pump £15, chain oil £4, WD40 for general cleaning (wipe not spray on parts), and rags.


The fx range (i have a 7.1fx) is perfect for winter commuting, and is an infinately better ride than cheaper budget bikes....but i still think (and this is only my opinion) a 9 speed 1.5 WSD will be marred by the crud, salt and muck you accumulate over a winter, however often you clean it.


Its not going to fall apart, but i soon learned how quickly a 9 speed chain and transmission wears compared with 7 or 8 speed.
 

Zippy

New Member
Voice of experience - remember to undo, twist and reset your seat post occasionally to avoid corrosion from setting it firmly in the down tube. Same I think applies to head set; undo handlebars, rotate slightly and reset.

Avoids a whole lot of breaking chemical binding later, probably ending in a lot of sawing of bits and expense buying new bits. ;)
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
Zippy said:
Voice of experience - remember to undo, twist and reset your seat post occasionally to avoid corrosion from setting it firmly in the down tube. Same I think applies to head set; undo handlebars, rotate slightly and reset.

Avoids a whole lot of breaking chemical binding later, probably ending in a lot of sawing of bits and expense buying new bits. :smile:

Good point re the seatpost...i must remember to do mine.
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
gbb said:
Good point re the seatpost...i must remember to do mine.

I've got mine just where I want it.

If it gets corroded in, that's the next guy's problem.

Anyway, if it is corroded in, there's less chance of it slipping away from it's desired position.
 
Location
Edinburgh
Oh! I've just been reminded of something else ... keep your tyres up to pressure. I had a flat on the way home tonight thanks to a bit of glass working it's way through. The damp roads lubricate any cutting action fragments make. Higher pressures help to resist punctures.
 

knonist

New Member
Touche said:
Oh! I've just been reminded of something else ... keep your tyres up to pressure. I had a flat on the way home tonight thanks to a bit of glass working it's way through. The damp roads lubricate any cutting action fragments make. Higher pressures help to resist punctures.

marthon plus...lol
 
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