Discussion in 'Bicycle Mechanics and Repairs' started by Alembicbassman, 14 Apr 2010.
As in post 16, copper slip is preferred if the pedal is steel and the crank alu.
What is 'nipping up'?
old school for 'tighten to the correct torque'
Exactly, very odd advice.
It has it's place for certain things, usually bolts that should be tightened with a low ish torque, helps prevent them coming lose with vibration, and I would always use it on the bolts that hold the discs for disc brakes onto the wheels, and also the bolts in the rear suspension of a full suss mtb.
Approx 35Nm -55Nm in new money -
5 to 6nm are the low torque bolts I was thinking about, certainly worth a bit of thread lock.
The usual problem with pedals is that they corrode themselves onto the cranks. Coming loose in use does not typically happen.
Both threadlock and grease will prevent corrosion by excluding moisture. But for threadlock to exclude moisture, you would need enough to cover the whole thread. A pedal spindle has a very large area of thread, so if you used enough threadlock to cover it all, you would struggle to loosen it for service/replacement in future.
I think the chap that gave me the advice had more spots than sense, the shop didn't stock threadlock, he told me to go to B&Q. Youthful exuberance me thinks. I could have applied it then sued them for new cranks and pedals.
I don't see the need for thread-lock on pedals! You only need it where there's going to be loads of vibration, which is why it's all over my motorbike! (well, not literally "all over"). I wouldn't put it on anything on my pushbike, unless it was a bolt that continually came loose.
i would say complete guff tbh. getting into service my Trek and finding the online manuals they all recommend all threads get a locking compound
I'd beg to differ. Permanent thread sealant has no place. Medium strength threadlock, such as Loctite 242, is a very useful thing to have around.
Threadlock is particularly useful on those parts subject to vibration i.e. all mudguard screws, rack fixings etc. It can also be useful with cup and cone BBs also but there's no need to cover all the thread, a drop will do.
Coppaslip on the pedal threads, though an application of non-perminent thread lock may make it easier to remove pedals than not using threadlock or some kind of anti-seize compound.
If you're talking about the high strength stuff I'll agree but as for the medium & low strength this is a list of things where I've seen thread lock pre-applied
- disc mounting bolts
- disc caliper fixings
- stem bolts (both h'bar & steerer tube)
- seat clamp bolts
a list of additional things I've used threadlock on
- mudguard fixings
- bottle holder fixings
- seat post clamp
The only place I would put threadlock is on bottle cage bolts, which have a curious tendency to loosen.
I put threadlock on my cleat bolts as I recently lost one and when trying to unclip found one foot rotated but stayed clipped in. Is this wrong? Not had problem since.
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