Bikebulder Di2 or Ultegra

[smutchin]

I wish it was only 140 for a di2 rear mech

That was the price I paid when I had to buy one, and I thought it wasn't that long ago, but I just checked my Wiggle order history and it was September 2016, so not that recently after all. And it was for a 6870 mech rather than R8050.

You can still get the 6870 mech for that price (ETA: that's the one @bpsmith has just linked to while I was typing) but I don't know if it's fully compatible with the latest generation of Ultegra. I presume it is but hopefully it's not something I'll need to find out in a hurry.

£200 on Wiggle for the R8050 rear mech. Ouch!

 

[gmw492]

Just get both, save a bit more in the piggybank, almost always cheaper when buying as a whole than upgrading later. Do Ribble (?) negotiate on price if you speak to them

Got the option of interest free which would help with payments so that would allow my budget to be a bit higher but I’ve got to draw the line somewhere as you know we can get carried away with the build otherwise, couldn’t afford both that’s why I was thinking what option would be better , Ribble I don’t think negotiate on price in builds.

 

[vickster]

Got the option of interest free which would help with payments so that would allow my budget to be a bit higher but I’ve got to draw the line somewhere as you know we can get carried away with the build otherwise, couldn’t afford both that’s why I was thinking what option would be better , Ribble I don’t think negotiate on price in builds.

You can only ask

FWIW I’d go for Di2 (or even better etap) as I don’t like the look of deep wheels (and I don’t need them, much rather a pair of £300 smart handbuilts)

 

[gmw492]

From what you say about the type of riding you're doing, you'd probably get more benefit from Di2 than from fancy wheels - not in terms of performance, but in your enjoyment of the bike. Cosmic Pro Carbon wheels have 45mm rims, which might provide an aero benefit if you're a serious racer but otherwise they're just bling. Probably not any lighter or more durable than the other wheel options either. And they'll need special brake blocks.

I like Di2 and would have it on all my (geared) bikes for preference but it's not a deal-breaker for me - I'm happy enough riding a bike with the latest Tiagra, to be honest, which performs perfectly well enough for my needs. But Di2 is very nice to use. The only real downside I can think of for Di2 is that it's very expensive to repair/replace parts when it goes wrong/gets damaged (£140 for a rear mech, which I had to replace on mine) but it's generally very reliable. Charging isn't a big deal so don't let that put you off.

Yes I could look at Kysriums also rather than Cosmics , not serious racer but want something just that bit better for improvement

 

[gmw492]

You can only ask

FWIW I’d go for Di2 (or even better etap) as I don’t like the look of deep wheels (and I don’t need them, much rather a pair of £300 smart handbuilts)

Yes tricky in the wind I guess deep rims ,I’ve got 35mm rims on my bike at the moment, never had SRAM before always Shimano so that would pose another question , I could look at other wheels later but the build they have were cosmic or Kysriums , I could look at other dealers for wheeels at a later date I guess, Once I go in before I order my build I could maybe have a look at a display model , live close to Ribble and Dolan and also Merlin for components

 

[jowwy]

How about £134.99?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ult...astle+Media+Ltd&utm_content=Editorial+Content

How about 399 for xtr di2 or 255 for xt di2

 

[jowwy]

That was the price I paid when I had to buy one, and I thought it wasn't that long ago, but I just checked my Wiggle order history and it was September 2016, so not that recently after all. And it was for a 6870 mech rather than R8050.

You can still get the 6870 mech for that price (ETA: that's the one @bpsmith has just linked to while I was typing) but I don't know if it's fully compatible with the latest generation of Ultegra. I presume it is but hopefully it's not something I'll need to find out in a hurry.

£200 on Wiggle for the R8050 rear mech. Ouch!

255 for xt di2 and 399 for xtr di2

And dont get me started on replacements for my etap

 

[smutchin]

These numbers sound to me like a good argument for sticking with mechanical groupsets.

Di2 is pretty reliable in my experience but I wouldn't want to find myself in a situation of not being able to afford to repair my bike if it did go wrong. @gmw492 - something to bear in mind, especially if you're buying the bike on credit.

 

[pclay]

I personally would go for Di2. its easier to upgrade wheels later than change form a mechanical to an electrical groupset.

 

[huwsparky]

Di2 is very good, no doubt about it.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

PayPal Credit is also available at a number of vendors now.

NOT advocating going into debt, but it’s the same as saving for me. I just stick with what I would have saved each month, but enjoy over the Summer.

Having debt is NOT the same thing as putting away money until you have saved up enough to buy what you desire. People who save up their cash and receive (some) interest on it, in the long term, have a better standard of living than those who "want it now" and end up paying interest on borrowed money. Even "interest free" credit is not truly free, the finance cost is still factored into the retail price.
You can call me old-fashioned if you like, but in my book the only acceptable form of debt is a house mortgage, everything else should be saved up for and bought outright. The only time I have ever bought a brand new car (as generally new is poor value) I worked loads of overtime for two years then paid cash, and the amount of money involved was way higher than even a top end carbon road bike would cost. If I haven't got the ready cash for something, I don't buy it until I have. Buying something as trivial as a push bike on credit is just bonkers, IMHO.

 

[bpsmith]

Having debt is NOT the same thing as putting away money until you have saved up enough to buy what you desire. People who save up their cash and receive (some) interest on it, in the long term, have a better standard of living than those who "want it now" and end up paying interest on borrowed money. Even "interest free" credit is not truly free, the finance cost is still factored into the retail price.
You can call me old-fashioned if you like, but in my book the only acceptable form of debt is a house mortgage, everything else should be saved up for and bought outright. The only time I have ever bought a brand new car (as generally new is poor value) I worked loads of overtime for two years then paid cash, and the amount of money involved was way higher than even a top end carbon road bike would cost. If I haven't got the ready cash for something, I don't buy it until I have. Buying something as trivial as a push bike on credit is just bonkers, IMHO.

Never suggested it was, but just comparing the two simplistic options.

1. Save £100 per month for 2 years and buy a bike for £2,400 in 2 years time.
2. Buy a bike for £2,400 on a 0% credit card now and pay £100 off the card for 24 months.

I fail to see how I would have paid any more for the bike aside from the loss in potential interest on the savings whilst actually saving. It’s not built into the price at the shop as the bike costs the same whether bought with cash or a card. Same discounts to haggle for too.

There’s no standard of living gain for option 1, as the same money is put away each month. In fact, option 2 has a better standard of living, as I would be riding a much better bike for the 2 years, rather than the one from the skip.

I understand there are some negative views on credit, usually by savers who think they’re better than those who use credit, but have you asked yourself who instilled these views on you?

The answer will be, the bankers who want to use your cash for 2 years before you spend it on that trivial bike shaped object that they don’t understand.

Trying to argue against credit for a bike, but justifying it for a house is also instilled in the same manner. Where do you think the money loaned to you for your mortgage came from. They’ve encouraged you to save money with them in order to lend it back to you over a much longer period at a higher rate. Genius.

In all seriousness though, good for you for feeling righteous for saving then buying, but it has no effect on me I am afraid. I am comfortable with putting more money away each month than the bike costs me and could therefore pay for it with what I have saved already. I just prefer to use your savings at 0% interest whilst interest is applied to mine...whilst riding a nice new bike...

 

[Cuchilo]

People who save up their cash and receive (some) interest on it, in the long term, have a better standard of living

Says the bloke that rummages around other peoples bins

Back on track , i'd go for wheels and have done . You can keep wheels when you change bikes and get quite a tidy collection over time .
For your build i'd probably go for a cheap set of wheels for winter and shop elsewhere for a nice set .

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I fail to see how I would have paid any more for the bike aside from the loss in potential interest on the savings whilst actually saving. It’s not built into the price at the shop as the bike costs the same whether bought with cash or a card. Same discounts to haggle for too.

There’s no standard of living gain for option 1, as the same money is put away each month. In fact, option 2 has a better standard of living, as I would be riding a much better bike for the 2 years, rather than the one from the skip.

Trying to argue against credit for a bike, but justifying it for a house is also instilled in the same manner. Where do you think the money loaned to you for your mortgage came from. They’ve encouraged you to save money with them in order to lend it back to you over a much longer period at a higher rate. Genius. ...

Most people who buy stuff on credit don't do so at 0% interest though. For you to have someone front up the money so you can buy on tick, someone, somewhere is getting a return on that. It may be hidden in the pricing, but it's there.
There's also the fact that even if you have a 0% interest rate debt it's still a debt. The bike I pulled out of a skip doesn't owe me anything, and I don't owe anyone else anything. No-one can come looking for me for their £2400, whereas with you they can. If you and me earn the same money and you owe £100 a month on your bike, but I owe £zero, then I've got £100 more disposable income than you, all things being equal. I will still have £100 left when you've spent all yours, so my standard of living could be higher.
As regards having savings earning a low interest, and simultaneously holding a mortgage debt with high interest, I agree totally it's madness. Which is why, when I bought my house some years ago, I pretty much wiped out all my cash and paid a huge chunk of the purchase price in cash, to minimise the amount of debt incurred. I also paid it off as quickly as humanly possible, so now I don't owe anyone a penny for anything.

 

[bpsmith]

Most people who buy stuff on credit don't do so at 0% interest though. For you to have someone front up the money so you can buy on tick, someone, somewhere is getting a return on that. It may be hidden in the pricing, but it's there.
There's also the fact that even if you have a 0% interest rate debt it's still a debt. The bike I pulled out of a skip doesn't owe me anything, and I don't owe anyone else anything. No-one can come looking for me for their £2400, whereas with you they can. If you and me earn the same money and you owe £100 a month on your bike, but I owe £zero, then I've got £100 more disposable income than you, all things being equal. I will still have £100 left when you've spent all yours, so my standard of living could be higher.
As regards having savings earning a low interest, and simultaneously holding a mortgage debt with high interest, I agree totally it's madness. Which is why, when I bought my house some years ago, I pretty much wiped out all my cash and paid a huge chunk of the purchase price in cash, to minimise the amount of debt incurred. I also paid it off as quickly as humanly possible, so now I don't owe anyone a penny for anything.

If you’re using credit, then there are a number of options out there for 0% rates. There is no catch, or additional cost involved, as long as you clear the debt within the set time. That’s what the lender hopes is not the case, with the rate increasing accordingly. That’s in the terms, so nothing is hidden.

I follow your point about the extra £100 a month and would agree with you, although your argument was that it would be better to save the £100 per month until you have the money to buy outright, rather than do so on credit. In that example, we have the same disposable income, irrespective of whether her the money goes into savings or to the credit card. Exactly the same.

On the assumption that you don’t buy a bike, then your argument holds true. No argument there, unless I was to cut back £100 per month from other things, like visiting the pub, etc.

Don’t get me wrong, I admire your saving regime. I am just pointing out that not all credit is bad credit and it has its place if you’re clever in how you use it and don’t go overboard.

My only complaint about saving is that those who save continually, often don’t get to enjoy their hard earned cash. I know of a number of people have have sadly passed, leaving a stack of cash that served no purpose to them. None of it being left to me btw, which I am glad about, as would have hated the fact that they never got to experience something they could have done.