Brompton Project Part Two

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Tenkaykev

Guru
Location
Poole
I was thinking similar; one idea being to sandwich a piece of ally sheet between some clear frame protection tape - one to separate the sheet from the frame, the other to retain it. Of course this would cut down on the area the tape has to adhere to, so might not last as long as one could hope.
Another as you say is to use double sided tape; my only reservation with this would be ease of removal. On top of that, aluminium likes to oxidise so could get tatty pretty quickly..

I'd not thought of the oxidation so I've done a quick search as to the properties of Aluminium used in beverage containers and found this:

What about that beer can? State-of-the-art machines are capable of making over 3,000 beverage cans per minute, which contributes to a U.S. production of more than 100 billion cans per year. The chosen sheet metal needs to be soft enough to accommodate this manufacturing volume and speed, but strong enough to withstand filling, shipping, and stacking.


A beverage can body usually is made from AA3004. Alloys from the 3XXX series have about 1 percent manganese (Mn) added, but AA3004 also has 1 percent magnesium (Mg) for further strengthening that allows the finished can to maintain sufficient integrity with the thinnest possible wall. The incoming sheet aluminum starts at about 250 microns, or 0.01 inch. After forming with a draw and wall ironed (DWI) operation, beer can bodies have a wall thickness of 100 microns (0.004 in.) at their thinnest point.


The tops need to be stronger to open properly and consistently using the riveted pull tabs. To get the higher strength, it’s necessary to use a different alloy family—5XXX. AA5182 has 4.5 percent Mg and 0.3 percent Mn as the main alloying additions, which provide a balance between high strength and formability. The incoming aluminum stock is about the same thickness as the body metal (250 microns), but does not go through the same degree of work hardening as the can walls do during the DWI process. As such, the part strength and finished thickness of the lids are not significantly different from the incoming coil. To minimize the weight and increase the stiffness, the top of the can body is necked down so the lid does not have to be the same diameter as the majority of the body.


A bit more digging found this:

Does Aluminum Alloy Rust?​


Aluminum and its alloys are resistant to corrosion. Although aluminum is naturally resilient, its resistance decreases with the addition of more alloys. Aluminum’s resistance to corrosion is due to oxidation. When new aluminum surfaces come into contact with air or other oxidizing agents, a thin, hard aluminum oxide film forms, protecting it from corrosion. However, it’s important to note that aluminum is not completely immune to corrosion and can corrode under certain conditions.


Which Alloys Have the Best Corrosion Resistance?​


1xxx​


Alloy 1100: Aluminum grade 1100 is commercially pure aluminum. It has excellent corrosion resistance and is common in the chemical and food processing industries. Otherwise, it is a soft and ductile metal with excellent workability. You’ll find alloy 1100 frequently in applications that require forming. It can be welded with any method, but it is non-heat-treatable.


3xxx​


Alloy 3003: Alloy 3003 is the most common of the aluminum alloys. It is pure, commercial-grade aluminum with a 20% boost in strength thanks to the addition of Manganese and Copper. It also has excellent corrosion resistance, workability, and can be welded or brazed, drawn or spun.


5xxx​


Alloy 5052: 5052 is also a very popular alloy because it has the highest strength of any of the non-heat-treatable grades. It is especially common in marine and saltwater atmospheres because of its resistance to corrosion. It has excellent workability and is easily drawn or formed into complex shapes.


6xxx​


Alloy 6061: 6061 is the most versatile of the heat-treatable alloys, including corrosion resistance, workability when annealed, and weldability. You’ll find alloy 6061 in products and applications that require a trifecta of good appearance, better corrosion resistance, and good strength.


Alloy 6063: 6063 is usually known as an architectural alloy because of its high tensile, great finishing, and high corrosion-resistant properties. You’ll find 6063 in interior and exterior architectural settings and trims. It is frequently anodized.


In my extensive research into beer I've found that some brands use stick on labels, some of them are true works of art, others use a sort of adhesive paint. I've used the labels from a couple of my favourite brews to add a bit of decoration to a couple of my Brommies. They're easy to apply and remove so I can ring the changes if I see something that I find appealing.

IMG_2132.JPG


IMG_2653.JPG
 

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
I'd not thought of the oxidation so I've done a quick search as to the properties of Aluminium used in beverage containers and found this:

What about that beer can? State-of-the-art machines are capable of making over 3,000 beverage cans per minute, which contributes to a U.S. production of more than 100 billion cans per year. The chosen sheet metal needs to be soft enough to accommodate this manufacturing volume and speed, but strong enough to withstand filling, shipping, and stacking.


A beverage can body usually is made from AA3004. Alloys from the 3XXX series have about 1 percent manganese (Mn) added, but AA3004 also has 1 percent magnesium (Mg) for further strengthening that allows the finished can to maintain sufficient integrity with the thinnest possible wall. The incoming sheet aluminum starts at about 250 microns, or 0.01 inch. After forming with a draw and wall ironed (DWI) operation, beer can bodies have a wall thickness of 100 microns (0.004 in.) at their thinnest point.


The tops need to be stronger to open properly and consistently using the riveted pull tabs. To get the higher strength, it’s necessary to use a different alloy family—5XXX. AA5182 has 4.5 percent Mg and 0.3 percent Mn as the main alloying additions, which provide a balance between high strength and formability. The incoming aluminum stock is about the same thickness as the body metal (250 microns), but does not go through the same degree of work hardening as the can walls do during the DWI process. As such, the part strength and finished thickness of the lids are not significantly different from the incoming coil. To minimize the weight and increase the stiffness, the top of the can body is necked down so the lid does not have to be the same diameter as the majority of the body.


A bit more digging found this:

Does Aluminum Alloy Rust?​


Aluminum and its alloys are resistant to corrosion. Although aluminum is naturally resilient, its resistance decreases with the addition of more alloys. Aluminum’s resistance to corrosion is due to oxidation. When new aluminum surfaces come into contact with air or other oxidizing agents, a thin, hard aluminum oxide film forms, protecting it from corrosion. However, it’s important to note that aluminum is not completely immune to corrosion and can corrode under certain conditions.


Which Alloys Have the Best Corrosion Resistance?​


1xxx​


Alloy 1100: Aluminum grade 1100 is commercially pure aluminum. It has excellent corrosion resistance and is common in the chemical and food processing industries. Otherwise, it is a soft and ductile metal with excellent workability. You’ll find alloy 1100 frequently in applications that require forming. It can be welded with any method, but it is non-heat-treatable.


3xxx​


Alloy 3003: Alloy 3003 is the most common of the aluminum alloys. It is pure, commercial-grade aluminum with a 20% boost in strength thanks to the addition of Manganese and Copper. It also has excellent corrosion resistance, workability, and can be welded or brazed, drawn or spun.


5xxx​


Alloy 5052: 5052 is also a very popular alloy because it has the highest strength of any of the non-heat-treatable grades. It is especially common in marine and saltwater atmospheres because of its resistance to corrosion. It has excellent workability and is easily drawn or formed into complex shapes.


6xxx​


Alloy 6061: 6061 is the most versatile of the heat-treatable alloys, including corrosion resistance, workability when annealed, and weldability. You’ll find alloy 6061 in products and applications that require a trifecta of good appearance, better corrosion resistance, and good strength.


Alloy 6063: 6063 is usually known as an architectural alloy because of its high tensile, great finishing, and high corrosion-resistant properties. You’ll find 6063 in interior and exterior architectural settings and trims. It is frequently anodized.


In my extensive research into beer I've found that some brands use stick on labels, some of them are true works of art, others use a sort of adhesive paint. I've used the labels from a couple of my favourite brews to add a bit of decoration to a couple of my Brommies. They're easy to apply and remove so I can ring the changes if I see something that I find appealing.

View attachment 698230

View attachment 698232

Top research skills!

I think I've read that deconstruction of a beverage can before; goes to show the impressive level of thought and engineering that goes into something so seemingly mundane. I always have a few cans chopped up for use as shim in various applications; as per your link it's about 0.10mm at the centre of the can and a bit fatter towards the ends.

Admittedly I've never had any corrode; however (contrary to the other bit you quote) ally is a very reactive metal and will corrode given the opportunity. Care must be taken when placing it in contact with other metals as this can provoke galvantic corrosion (although in the case of the Brompton frame, as long as the powder coat's intact it should be fine).

End of the day the materials are next to free so if you're happy to put the time in, crack on :smile:
 
OP
OP
Gunk

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
I'd not thought of the oxidation so I've done a quick search as to the properties of Aluminium used in beverage containers and found this:

What about that beer can? State-of-the-art machines are capable of making over 3,000 beverage cans per minute, which contributes to a U.S. production of more than 100 billion cans per year. The chosen sheet metal needs to be soft enough to accommodate this manufacturing volume and speed, but strong enough to withstand filling, shipping, and stacking.


A beverage can body usually is made from AA3004. Alloys from the 3XXX series have about 1 percent manganese (Mn) added, but AA3004 also has 1 percent magnesium (Mg) for further strengthening that allows the finished can to maintain sufficient integrity with the thinnest possible wall. The incoming sheet aluminum starts at about 250 microns, or 0.01 inch. After forming with a draw and wall ironed (DWI) operation, beer can bodies have a wall thickness of 100 microns (0.004 in.) at their thinnest point.


The tops need to be stronger to open properly and consistently using the riveted pull tabs. To get the higher strength, it’s necessary to use a different alloy family—5XXX. AA5182 has 4.5 percent Mg and 0.3 percent Mn as the main alloying additions, which provide a balance between high strength and formability. The incoming aluminum stock is about the same thickness as the body metal (250 microns), but does not go through the same degree of work hardening as the can walls do during the DWI process. As such, the part strength and finished thickness of the lids are not significantly different from the incoming coil. To minimize the weight and increase the stiffness, the top of the can body is necked down so the lid does not have to be the same diameter as the majority of the body.


A bit more digging found this:

Does Aluminum Alloy Rust?​


Aluminum and its alloys are resistant to corrosion. Although aluminum is naturally resilient, its resistance decreases with the addition of more alloys. Aluminum’s resistance to corrosion is due to oxidation. When new aluminum surfaces come into contact with air or other oxidizing agents, a thin, hard aluminum oxide film forms, protecting it from corrosion. However, it’s important to note that aluminum is not completely immune to corrosion and can corrode under certain conditions.


Which Alloys Have the Best Corrosion Resistance?​


1xxx​


Alloy 1100: Aluminum grade 1100 is commercially pure aluminum. It has excellent corrosion resistance and is common in the chemical and food processing industries. Otherwise, it is a soft and ductile metal with excellent workability. You’ll find alloy 1100 frequently in applications that require forming. It can be welded with any method, but it is non-heat-treatable.


3xxx​


Alloy 3003: Alloy 3003 is the most common of the aluminum alloys. It is pure, commercial-grade aluminum with a 20% boost in strength thanks to the addition of Manganese and Copper. It also has excellent corrosion resistance, workability, and can be welded or brazed, drawn or spun.


5xxx​


Alloy 5052: 5052 is also a very popular alloy because it has the highest strength of any of the non-heat-treatable grades. It is especially common in marine and saltwater atmospheres because of its resistance to corrosion. It has excellent workability and is easily drawn or formed into complex shapes.


6xxx​


Alloy 6061: 6061 is the most versatile of the heat-treatable alloys, including corrosion resistance, workability when annealed, and weldability. You’ll find alloy 6061 in products and applications that require a trifecta of good appearance, better corrosion resistance, and good strength.


Alloy 6063: 6063 is usually known as an architectural alloy because of its high tensile, great finishing, and high corrosion-resistant properties. You’ll find 6063 in interior and exterior architectural settings and trims. It is frequently anodized.


In my extensive research into beer I've found that some brands use stick on labels, some of them are true works of art, others use a sort of adhesive paint. I've used the labels from a couple of my favourite brews to add a bit of decoration to a couple of my Brommies. They're easy to apply and remove so I can ring the changes if I see something that I find appealing.

View attachment 698230

View attachment 698232

Love these, especially the first one, where did you source them from?
 

Tenkaykev

Guru
Location
Poole
Love these, especially the first one, where did you source them from?

The first one is
Love these, especially the first one, where did you source them from?

The first one is a label peeled from a 330ml can of " Faith " from Northern Monk in Leeds. The labels peel of without distortion and keep their original stickiness so they're easy to apply. If misaligned it's simply a matter of opening another can 😁
The second is from a 440ml can of " Hiding behind Shadows " a glorious strong stout from our local Eight Arch brewery ( they gave me a few labels when I was at their taproom)
 
OP
OP
Gunk

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
Today I fitted the Aliexpress decal that I had decided I wouldn’t fit. These earlier style frame decals are no longer available, so I took a punt and for £2.92 it is very good, looks almost OEM.

The original was really tatty, so this tidies the bike up nicely.

IMG_1685.jpeg


IMG_1688.jpeg
 
OP
OP
Gunk

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
A quick update, the Brompton is now in regular service, (mainly to the pub and back) so much so that it needed its first clean this week. it rides really well and seems to of now bedded in, no more squeaks or rattles, just nice and smooth.

I‘ve managed to track down the correct silver frame decal, so that will replace the white version when it arrives, I’ve also ordered a light bracket from China which fits on the front brake caliper, ready for the darker nights. I will use one of the many lights I have in the garage, we have bought and sold so many bikes over the years, we have a box of spare lights, locks and all sorts of bits and bobs.

There is not much else I really need to do to it, although that probably won’t stop me!

hope you have enjoyed the 7 pages of waffle and ramblings and thank you for all your kind comments.

IMG_1718.jpeg
 

tinywheels

Über Member
Location
South of hades
if ever there was an example of " your work is love made visible " this is it!
Your bike is a thing of beauty, congratulations, and enjoy.
 

EltonFrog

Legendary Member
I always enjoy a good restoration read, and this one has been especially interesting.

Now, you need a new project. Dawes Kingpin itch has not yet been scratched. Just sayin’.
 

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Great work - lots of rewards to be had in getting something "just right" - no matter how inconsequential all the little bits might seem :smile:

I now see you're projecting your own light anxiety onto me :tongue:
 
OP
OP
Gunk

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
I always enjoy a good restoration read, and this one has been especially interesting.

Now, you need a new project. Dawes Kingpin itch has not yet been scratched. Just sayin’.

I’m looking for something, either another Brompton, Moulton. Something will pop up at the right price.
 
OP
OP
Gunk

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
This arrived yesterday which will replace the rather awkward “Rabbits Ears” shifter. The seller also included the outer cable, It was all removed from a brand new bike. £18 delivered. A great result as they are not usually available without the complete lever.

IMG_1739.jpeg
 

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
This arrived yesterday which will replace the rather awkward “Rabbits Ears” shifter. The seller also included the outer cable, It was all removed from a brand new bike. £18 delivered. A great result as they are not usually available without the complete lever.

View attachment 700527

Nice work; I think you'll like that. The ergonomics of having it slung under the brake lever are pretty good IMO.
 
OP
OP
Gunk

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
I also managed to grab a genuine luggage block for only £10 - The clip was missing so I swapped that over. I never really trusted the Chinese version, the plastic looked very hard and brittle. I didn’t really want an episode where a full basket bag falls off at speed, so this is a much better solution.

But definitely a case of “buy cheap, buy twice” My fault!

IMG_1740.jpeg
 
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