Cadence vs higher gears

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GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
According to my spin class instructor - a cyclist - the optimum cadence is between 80 and 110 rpm, and you really shouldn't be going any faster than that or it's wasted energy.
Optimum cadence at what power output, on what cranks at what level of strength & fitness? Your optimum cadence is effected by many things:
* crank length
* power production
* biometric position
* inertial load
* pedal load
* muscle load
(that's not even close to being an exhaustive list)
Those last 2 end up being functions of the first 4 with further gearing & physiological factors added. For instance the higher the inertial load the lower your most efficient cadence for a given power output is, climbing is a high inertial load situation & struggling into a headwind delivers a low inertial load.
 

david k

Hi
Location
North West
i tried to cycle with a high cadence when i started, it felt odd but i continued. i now cycle with a high cadence which feels natural and it helps my knees and distance
 

Garz

Squat Member
Location
Down
So I'm wondering if I should stick to big gears and knacker myself out after 10 mile or so or gear down to pace myself over a longer route?

Hi Loki,

I would only choose the big gear 'grinding' as it's known, to vary your training once you get a decent base level of fitness going. By this I would focus on increasing your mileage firstly till you feel comfortable with that and start to plateau.
 

Sandra6

Veteran
Location
Cumbria
Optimum cadence at what power output, on what cranks at what level of strength & fitness? Your optimum cadence is effected by many things:
* crank length
* power production
* biometric position
* inertial load
* pedal load
* muscle load
(that's not even close to being an exhaustive list)
Those last 2 end up being functions of the first 4 with further gearing & physiological factors added. For instance the higher the inertial load the lower your most efficient cadence for a given power output is, climbing is a high inertial load situation & struggling into a headwind delivers a low inertial load.
Well you've lost me now. His theory (not mine) is that you should keep the cadence the same and gear up/down accordingly in order to keep it smooth. So, in a class situation, if we put more load on the spin bike and can't keep the same pedal speed we need to drop back, but on a road it would equal to going uphill -if you can't keep the same cadence you gear down until you can.
It makes sense to me, but maybe I'm not explaining it right.
 
My average cadence is 90 at the moment. I'm making a concious effort to get in to that figure meaning my low/high range is usually 80-105ish. I can maintain the same speeds but with less effort and as I'm increasing my distances then, as far as I'm concerned, that's got to help.

I do find that I need to drop back to period(s) of "grinding" to increase the strength of my leg muscles, otherwise I seem to weaken over a period of about 2 months of just spinning. Can usually accomplish this by putting a harder gear on a climb, getting out of the saddle and going for it. Wouldn't recommend that as a usual hill climb technique though.
 
Well you've lost me now. His theory (not mine) is that you should keep the cadence the same and gear up/down accordingly in order to keep it smooth. So, in a class situation, if we put more load on the spin bike and can't keep the same pedal speed we need to drop back, but on a road it would equal to going uphill -if you can't keep the same cadence you gear down until you can.
It makes sense to me, but maybe I'm not explaining it right.
Your explanation makes sense to me. ^_^
 
I do find that I need to drop back to period(s) of "grinding" to increase the strength of my leg muscles,

it's not 'extra strength' you need - it is the ability to maintain power output - and the same is true for any cadence. Your legs are (in theory) already plenty strong enough to get you up hills...
 

Sandra6

Veteran
Location
Cumbria
doesn't sound like much of a work-out..?
The idea is that as you get stronger you can work faster with more resistance. People often think spinning classes are all about how "heavy" you make the bike, but if you can't maintain a reasonable cadence you're not getting the work out, so it's better to go lighter and spin faster, but if you're little legs are going like the clappers then you need more resistance.
It's like if you come to a hill you have the choice of staying in a high gear and going slower, or gearing down and going up it faster without feeling it so much in your legs - but after a few times (definition of few is anything from 3 to a hundred!) of going up that hill you'll be staying in a low gear and going up it at speed.
 
The idea is that as you get stronger you can work faster with more resistance. People often think spinning classes are all about how "heavy" you make the bike, but if you can't maintain a reasonable cadence you're not getting the work out, so it's better to go lighter and spin faster, but if you're little legs are going like the clappers then you need more resistance.
It's like if you come to a hill you have the choice of staying in a high gear and going slower, or gearing down and going up it faster without feeling it so much in your legs - but after a few times (definition of few is anything from 3 to a hundred!) of going up that hill you'll be staying in a low gear and going up it at speed.
I've been to spinning classes and remember coming out looking like someone had thrown a bucket of water all over me - and I'm not unfit ^_^
The problem with cycling on the roads (or at least for me) is that you tend to stay in your comfort zone and your improvement stagnates until you alter your training in some way. At least with someone there to continually bully you into doing something you will improve.
It's why I alter my gear selections/average cadence targets regularly on shorter rides.
 
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