Cadence vs higher gears

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2wd

Canyon Aeroad CF 7.0 Di2
No matter what, you will get good days, you will get great days, and you will get days when you think that you have had your legs replaced with pink sticks, but whatever you want to do, DO IT YOUR WAY and you will progress.

I'm glad its not just me who suffers like this

I've had days were I feel I could climb mountains and other days,same route half way round, where I've felt like ringing the Mrs to pick me up and sling the bike in the boot!

I've spent some time recently trying to learn and understand this subject to try and get the best enjoyment out of my chosen hobby

I find topics/debates like this a great help.

keep em coming ^_^
 

GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
It's like if you come to a hill you have the choice of staying in a high gear and going slower, or gearing down and going up it faster without feeling it so much in your legs - but after a few times (definition of few is anything from 3 to a hundred!) of going up that hill you'll be staying in a low gear and going up it at speed.
No, you'll get up the hill fastest by mixing it up. Spin for a bit then muscle your way up, then back to spinning. If you have multiple pedalling styles then use them to get even more mix.
 
Hi all,

I'm a new member here so I apologise in advance if this is a common question.

Basically I've been riding an 18 speed mountain bike for the last 6 weeks or so and I'm upgrading to a good road bike (Trek 1.1 2013, very excited! :smile: ). For the last few weeks I've been trying to keep in the top gear up hills and it's been a real slog sometimes, but it is getting easier. My route takes me around 8 miles round the local country roads and some are quite hilly.

Anyway, as I'm going to be moving onto a road bike I'm hoping my distance will increase (as I've heard that once you've made the move you can go further and faster). So I'm wondering if I should stick to big gears and knacker myself out after 10 mile or so or gear down to pace myself over a longer route?

Today I experimented with a 12 mile route over some hilly terrain and geared down quite a lot. My average pace didn't seem to drop much, I've been hovering around 13mph lately and today I came back after 12 miles with an average pace of 12mph, so I'm leaning towards gearing down and making my life easier! lol.

Just wanted to get some input from some experienced cyclists. I'm trying get my fitness up to a level where I can join my local club, they ride every Sunday for about 50 mile at 14mph pace.

Looking forward to hearing everyone's thoughts ^_^


It would take me much more than 10 miles to knacker myself out even if I tried. The reason for this is that once I cycle much beyond 20mph or so my lungs are working overtime even though my body is cruising. To push my body close to its limits is only possible for short bursts which makes wearing myself out in short distances impossible. I find that it only takes a moderate amount of effort to get quite breathless. Does anyone else find this happening to them? A recent lung test I had showed my lung capacity was considerably less than average for someone my age, weight and size so that explains my problem I guess.
 
OP
OP
L

loki421

New Member
Wow, we thanks everyone for all your input, some really good advice here :smile:

Think I'm going to stick with the higher candence and lower gears for a few weeks, then move it up a gear or two and try and stick to the same pace.

Can anyone recommend a good method to measure cadence or is it better to just buy a meter? If so, what would you recommend?

Thanks again for all the input, it's been really great to see so many different opinions, keep 'em coming ^_^
 

HovR

Über Member
Location
Plymouth
Anyone with a compact or double set up spin on the smaller ring?

My road bike runs a double (42/52) and I far prefer to spin in the smaller ring. When doing this I can fairly easily maintain a decent pace (18 to 22 mph) for a sustained period, with bursts up to 28 to 30 mph possible for short periods of time.

I find I'm not comfortable in the 52 ring as I can't spin fast enough, so that's reserved for down hills.
 
My road bike runs a double (42/52) and I far prefer to spin in the smaller ring. When doing this I can fairly easily maintain a decent pace (18 to 22 mph) for a sustained period, with bursts up to 28 to 30 mph possible for short periods of time.

I find I'm not comfortable in the 52 ring as I can't spin fast enough, so that's reserved for down hills.

At 30mph, you will ride at the same cadence (give or take) on 42/12 as you will on 52/15 - ironically, if you bothered to change up to the big ring, you would get an easier time, not a harder one, as the bigger ring gives you a better mechanical advantage for the same cadence...
 

Garz

Squat Member
Location
Down
Cadence can do funny things. When you 'spin' beyond your comfort zone you tend to not go any faster but bump up your heart rate if your not used to it. This works your C.V system. As others have mentioned you cannot neglect the harder gears as this is where you get your power levels up.

When you watch the pro's then never click to an easier gear to drop people, they always go into a harder gear and burst away. Spinning will not really benefit you for these situations however I do agree they are something people should work on the bike to get you more efficient or better pedalling action.
 

HovR

Über Member
Location
Plymouth
At 30mph, you will ride at the same cadence (give or take) on 42/12 as you will on 52/15 - ironically, if you bothered to change up to the big ring, you would get an easier time, not a harder one, as the bigger ring gives you a better mechanical advantage for the same cadence...

What's your problem? Seems like every other post of yours I read is either rude, or designed to disagree with another members point of view, which you then insist on debating until they back down..

No tact what so ever..
 
What's your problem? Seems like every other post of yours I read is either rude, or designed to disagree with another members point of view, which you then insist on debating until they back down..

No tact what so ever..

ok, my apologies - take the word 'bothered' out. If I'd realised you were so sensitive I would never have used it. Aside from that, the comment is still valid... :smile:
 
That post started off so well, then you just went and ruined it. :rolleyes:

well that's just me all over ;)

I'm just trying to make the point that you are missing a trick by staying out of the big ring - there are so many 'cross-over' gears on 42/52 that in many cases you would be better off pushing the same cadence/gear inches in the 52...
 

HovR

Über Member
Location
Plymouth
well that's just me all over ;)

I'm just trying to make the point that you are missing a trick by staying out of the big ring - there are so many 'cross-over' gears on 42/52 that in many cases you would be better off pushing the same cadence/gear inches in the 52...

Well, what you've failed to realize is that the bike in question, a 531 framed Dawes, is in fact a 5 speed at the rear. And the number of cross over gears? 0.

I've been riding this bike for more than long enough now to thoroughly test out the gear ratios, and my preferred ratios occur when on the 42 ring.

End of.
 
Well, what you've failed to realize is that the bike in question, a 531 framed Dawes, is in fact a 5 speed at the rear. And the number of cross over gears? 0.

I've been riding this bike for more than long enough now to thoroughly test out the gear ratios, and my preferred ratios occur when on the 42 ring.

End of.

Ah, well I failed to realise it because you failed to mention you were on an old clunker. Anyway, of course there will still be cross-over ratios - just not as many. Presume you have a 12 and something like a 15 or 16 do you not..? Either way, regardless of the actual maths, the comment still applies...but don't let that stop you ignoring sensible advice.. ;)
 
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