Can I/Should I, put slicks on my hybrid?

[SkipdiverJohn]

I was taught mostly in metric, but I mostly measure in Imperial. Metric is easier for some stuff that involves calculations, since it is a decimal system, but for everyday use, Imperial units are generally a more convenient size. Why would I want to order 568ml of beer when I can just ask for 1 pint instead? It's the same with weights; a KG is too big a unit to just round up or down to the nearest whole one, but a Pound is small enough.

 

[si_c]

Is this a fully-equipped multi-geared bike not a SS? Must be a very expensive steel one with lightweight components if so. My 531 Dawes weighs about 24 lb on 28c tyres, without mudguards fitted. 531 Raleigh hybrid is 29/30 lb with guards and rack on 35c tyres.

1972 Peugeot ae-08 which was a £50 eBay find for the frame. Added the rest of the components myself, along with wheels I built. It weighs less than my alloy road bike.

 

[nickyboy]

I was taught mostly in metric, but I mostly measure in Imperial. Metric is easier for some stuff that involves calculations, since it is a decimal system, but for everyday use, Imperial units are generally a more convenient size. Why would I want to order 568ml of beer when I can just ask for 1 pint instead? It's the same with weights; a KG is too big a unit to just round up or down to the nearest whole one, but a Pound is small enough.

You can use the same argument for centimetres over inches, kilometres over miles, grams over ounces

 

[alecstilleyedye]

i use 32mm vittoria randoneurs. had them since may and they've been doing the 4x68km a week commute and still look as good as new...

 

[Profpointy]

You are kidding yourself if you think swapping a pair of treaded tyres for a pair of slicks is going to make your bike significantly faster. Depending what you have now and what you change to, it might well make a small difference, but the bike is still going to be powered by the same engine and is still going to more or less weigh the same. Whatever tyres you choose need to be tough if you ride on gravel or you will be plagued by punctures. Same goes for poor tarmac with cracking up and potholed surfaces. Cycling performance is about reliability as much as speed. "Fast" tyres are no advantage if you have to do more frequent puncture repairs. Flat bar bikes of any variety are ultimately limited in their speed potential by the upright riding position, which for general use doesn't matter, but performance favours drops. Saving a few watts in tyre drag is only going to offer a very small increase in road speed due to rapidly increasing aerodynamic drag.

Don't agree with that. I bought treaded tyres for my old tourer / road bike thing it would be better on tracks and such but f-me it was bloody hard work on tarmac. Made a huge difference and I bought some slick tyres PDQ despite the treaded ones having loads of life in 'em.


Schwalbe duranos or conti gatorskins have been fine, albeit limited expeirence of much else

 

[nickAKA]

Did

Don't agree with that. I bought treaded tyres for my old tourer / road bike thing it would be better on tracks and such but f-me it was bloody hard work on tarmac. Made a huge difference and I bought some slick tyres PDQ despite the treaded ones having loads of life in 'em.


Schwalbe duranos or conti gatorskins have been fine, albeit limited expeirence of much else

Did the same road ride 2 days apart on my gravel bike, first time on kenda gravel tyres, second time on gatorskins (albeit 32mm!)
Took over a minute off my previous PB on the uphill segment on the gravel tyres, for a ride of about 25 minutes. Weirdly, I was about the same coming back downhill...