Can Somebody Please Explain Dynamo Lighting To Me?

[cosmicbike]

As a year round rider, I'm starting to look at 'better' lighting options. So far these are battery driven which I use on my road bikes.
My commuter (Boarman CX Team, of 2015 vintage), currently uses 2 x SMART lights on the front, each powered by 2 x AA rechargeables, and 2 x Cateye LD-600's on the rear, each powered by 2 x AAA rechargeables. SO lots of batteries to keep charged.
I've been looking at putting dynamo lights on the Baordman, but to be honest not really sure where to start. Should I get a hub dynamo? Or will a bottle do the trick? Do they all operate at 6volts? Do I need a 'voltage stabiliser'? Can I make them stay on whilst stationary, and if so, how do I turn them off?

Would appreciate some real world information which would point me in the right direction.

Ta

 

[Tail End Charlie]

Hub dynamos are the best, they are available to suit any budget. Bottle ones tend to slip in the wet and obviously wear your tyre wall to a degree.
I'd just get a front light and continue using battery rears. You'd need one with a standlight, this stays for a few minutes on when you are stationary. You don't need a voltage stabilizer and they are all 6 volt afaik.
Once you've tried hub dynamos you won't go back to batteries.

 

[Tail End Charlie]

PS german websites such as rosebikes are cheaper for lights and dynamos, probably even if you get a built up wheel.

 

[classic33]

I don't know all the answers, but I have a few.
Some lights contain a battery or perhaps a capacitor to provide stand light capability. They will have a switch to turn them off.

This also provides a boost to keep the light bright when going very slowly. But be warned that once you've exhausted this then the light can be very feeble and flickery when proceeding slowly (eg uphill).

I don't know what a voltage stabilizer is, and I have a hub dynamo setup. So either you don't need one or my fancy (and faulty) B&M front light contains an integral one.

Here's a cheaper suggestion. Get two small cardboard boxes and write DUD on one and CHARGED on the other. Buy a load of quality rechargeable AAs and a good charger. Keep the Charged box full of batteries ready to go.

Or colour code/number the sets.

 

[Moodyman]

How many bikes do you have?

Battery lights are easy to transfer from bike to bike. They also double up as torches when dealing with a mechanical in the dark.

 

[Fab Foodie]

I have Hub dynamo lighting on both Rourke and Brompton. These are the bikes I primarily ride in the dark. For regular night riding they’re the dogs danglies. No faff, great output. Just go and ride.
Hub dynamos ARE the way to go, the best Shimano DH-3N80 is cheap robust and reliable. Add a B+M front and rear from Rose and you’re good to go! Fitting and wiring is easy.
Add a back- up rear blinky and you’re covered. I also carry a headtorch for fixing stuff/back-up main light.

 

[Milzy]

 

[Fab Foodie]

You also need a fully capable backup for the front light too. DAMHIKT

For full night rides I do (a battery B+M) otherwise the headtorch works as a get you home in an emergency.

 

[Tim Hall]

Hub dynamo definitely. Even I, the late adopter of technology, use a hub dynamo. Coupled with an LED front light with standlight function it's a fit and forget answer.

I'm a generation or two behind with my choice of front light, so the current bunch are even brighter. You can get stuff like usb charging outlets too, to keep your phone or gps topped up.

I run a battery powered rear light on my dynamo equipped bike. A 2AA cell light runs approximately for ever and you don't have the complications of more wires.

 

[si_c]

I've just got a hub dynamo system for the same reasons ie I can't be bothered keeping batteries charged.

Expect a complete system to set you back in the region of £200 including a new front wheel.

 

[pawl]

I think a voltage stabiliser was necessary to prevent buibs blowing tyre driven dynamos which back in the day they frequently did It was usually the rear that went usually when hurtling down hill Can’t comment on modern hub dynamos.
Not sure if bottle dynamos are still around.

I think it was Sanyou who made a dynamo that fitted under the B.B. and roller about tyre width that pressed on the tyre tread which was supposed to limit slippage,did hell and if you got the pressure adjustment wrong you were going nowhere fast
CTC forums may be a useful source of info for Shimano and Buch and Muller. Before It became Cycling U K it was a useful source of info

 

[Vantage]

I run B&M front and rear dynamo lights from a mid range Shimano dynamo hub.
I made the change 2-3 years ago and never looked back.
Most if not all modern setups are current regulated and blowing the bulbs from riding too fast is no longer an issue.
Most front lights have a capacitor that holds some charge that allows it and a rear to stay lit for a few minutes, long enough to wait for traffic lights to change.
I'm not sure about other manufacturers, but my rear light runs off the front light keeping wiring tidy and no additional grounding is needed as it's done at the hub terminal.
With a bottle unit, you get a cheaper generator at the cost of tyre sidewalls wearing (If not setup dead straight) and increased resistance. It can also be knocked out of adjustment and can slip when wet.
The much pricier hub unit (include the cost of rebuilding the wheel with new shorter spokes) has none of the above issues. There is some increased drag from the hub, but so little it's barely noticeable. About the same as letting 3-4 psi out from the tyre. Turning off the lights during daylight reduces this further but drag is so little that I never bother. Some could claim you're being antisocial by using DRLs though.

You do get the added benefit of having a proper focused beam and reliabiliy. Mile after mile after mile of not wondering when the battery will run out.
Then there's the security. Both my lights are literally bolted to the bike. Not some flimsy plastic strap.
And the possibiliy of future upgrades if you want. I added an ewerk a few months ago so have the abiliy to keep the cameras/mp3 player charged while out enjoying life.
It's brilliant.

 

[Soltydog]

I have a hub dynamo set up, now on my winter bike running a Supernova E3 front & rear light. It's worry free (so far) & bright enough for 20 mph on unlit country roads. I started off with a cheap hub dynamo wheel from Spa cycles, but a few years ago got a more expensive set of wheels & hub dynamo from Rose. It's certainly good enough for me & as I am unable to charge lights at work (unless I leave them unattended whilst working ) they are better IMO than rechargable lights. The only problem I have is that they are only on 1 bike, bit of a pain to swap wheel, lights & wiring over to another bike, so I also have a Hope vision one for using on other bikes & its as good to be fair, just have 2 sets of rechargable AAs so never stuck out in the dark.
Pros & cons to both, but reckon there is more pros to having a dynamo system

 

[cosmicbike]

Well that's a mixed bag, but has at least answered my questions. I just picked up a Hope Vision 1 as a 'see where I'm going' light for dark lanes, and at £40 is the most I've spent on a light. The idea of £100 upwards for a light, especially given I 'may' need to carry spare battery ones, or indeed still run battery rears, and it starts to look less attractive.
Food for thought though, so appreciate the input folks

 

[Soltydog]

. I just picked up a Hope Vision 1 as a 'see where I'm going' light for dark lanes, and at £40 is the most I've spent on a light.

Was that new or used? AT £40 I'd consider buying a spare one