Can't change gear on cassette (won't go up or down)

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OP
OP
Maz

Maz

Guru
Update:

Rear gears are working again.

The only problem now is adjusting the rear derailleur to move relatively smoothly up and down the gears. This is one job that I find absolutely soul-destroying because I can never do it satisfactorily.

At the moment it takes 3 to 5 taps of the paddle to move 1 gear lower and 1 tap of the paddle to move up a gear.

Anyway - main problem is sorted, replaced with a lesser problem which I can tolerate.

Many thanks to all.
 
Last edited:

screenman

Legendary Member
Is that cable missing a ferrul? Also worth starting at the beginning when setting up the rear, by that I mean rear much alignment.
 
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OP
OP
Maz

Maz

Guru
Is that cable missing a ferrul? Also worth starting at the beginning when setting up the rear, by that I mean rear mech alignment.
You mean the shiny thing on the floor in this picture? No - that's a pair of tweezers I used to grab the cable inside the shifter.
upload_2017-7-22_23-3-22-png.png
 

Tim Hall

Guest
Location
Crawley
Spiral outers should only be used for brakes. Gear outers comprise of metal wires running lengthways.
OP, gazza has nailed it. Using a spiral outer will likely be the reason you've hot the indexing problems you describe. The gear outer with its near lengthways (actually a very slow spiral) strands resists change in length when is use, thus making indexing work properly. The other side of that coin is not to use gear outer on brakes, as it may burst (braking forces are much larger than gear changing forces), leaving you with non functioning brakes, just when you need them most. Here's what Sheldon has to say:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
PS Maz

If you can find that post I talked you through many years ago about adjusting gears this will help. PS the outer needs to be a gear outer not brake. Gear routers are a bugger to cut unless you have a good cable cutter.
 
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OP
OP
Maz

Maz

Guru
OP, gazza has nailed it. Using a spiral outer will likely be the reason you've hot the indexing problems you describe. The gear outer with its near lengthways (actually a very slow spiral) strands resists change in length when is use, thus making indexing work properly. The other side of that coin is not to use gear outer on brakes, as it may burst (braking forces are much larger than gear changing forces), leaving you with non functioning brakes, just when you need them most. Here's what Sheldon has to say:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html
Wow!
I had absolutely no idea that brake cable outers and gear cable outers were different things!
I'm certain the new outer I've just installed is a brake cable outer - not a gear cable outer, so I need to take it off ASAP.
Thanks!

EDIT: I checked and all the cables I have are brake cables (spiral).
Guess I need something like this:
Capture.PNG
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Maz

Maz

Guru
No a ferrul goes on the end of the outer cable. It should stop what happened to your old outer.
The ferrule in that photo clearly wasn't up to the job!
You can see it in the photo - the spiral came through the end of it.
Capture.PNG
 
Last edited:

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Spiral outers should only be used for brakes. Gear outers comprise of metal wires running lengthways.
Well done, Gazza. Who'd have guessed it. But now we have 'new' knowledge viz:
if an OP complains (besides/before not changing at all) it's taking several clicks/swipes of STI lever to change, that's probably because the brake cable outer he/she's used needs those to compress before it'll actually have an effect at the RD.
New outers (and inners) all round required, I suggest. Clean slate.
 
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OP
OP
Maz

Maz

Guru
PS Maz

If you can find that post I talked you through many years ago about adjusting gears this will help. PS the outer needs to be a gear outer not brake. Gear routers are a bugger to cut unless you have a good cable cutter.
Are there different cable cutters for gear cable and brake cable?
 
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