Can't trust the LBS

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The Jogger

Legendary Member
Location
Spain
I went back to the LBS that done my FD on my Boardman CX this time I wanted to get my Trek 7.3FX ready for my winter commute. The guy said it needed a new cassette and chain, a rear tyre, chose a marathon plus and brake blocks. He said it would be £30 for the labour, they normally charge £25 for a service. Two days later, (this morning) I picked it up for my commute. As I was cycling up to the station I noticed the chain was slipping from the smallest cog on the cassette. When I got to the station I had a good look at the chain and it was quite loose and certainly was not the shiny chain I expected. There was one link which looked new and the rest looked like it had been cleaned. So £110 lighter I was a bit pi$$ed off to say the least. Maybe it is a new chain but if it is t is not crisp and smooth as I would expect it to be. I think in future I will use a big chain (pardon the pun) and ignore the LBS, once bitten, twice shy.
 
Could well be a new chain and the shiny link is a quicklink. The slipping could be a few things, from chain tension to chainwheel wear. Take it back.
 

shouldbeinbed

Rollin' along
Location
Manchester way
my not so LBS but one I've used and trusted for years has fobbed me off with a couple of service requests on hubs recently. Tried to sell me new ones for routine service/fixes. I've scratched them off my list.
 

DiddlyDodds

Random Resident
Location
Littleborough
My wife's from the far east and they always say they have LBS when they have the squirts , = Loose Bowel Syndrome.

When my sister in law said she was suffering from LBS, I thought she had had some shoddy servicing done on her bike ,, oh how we all laughed when instead of greasing her bottom bracket she ran for the toilet....
 

BikeLiker

Senior Member
Location
Wirral
Maybe it is a new chain but if it is t is not crisp and smooth as I would expect it to be.
Measure it. A new chain should be exactly 12" between rivet eyes when under tension. If it is longer (>1/16") it has wear. If you've been fleeced make sure you're compensated for your trouble and report to trading standards.
 
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Just thinking about this, I can't imagine that they haven't done what they said. How many miles had you done on the old chain and cassette and what's the crankset on the front?

If they've done what they said, then maybe the chain is a few links too long, your chainwheels worn, does it slip in that rear gear on a different chainring, or even your rear derailleur not functioning properly. Alternatively it might be something very simple like the indexing not quite right, in which case a simple adjustment will sort it. I'd start with the latter suggestion first.
 
OP
OP
The Jogger

The Jogger

Legendary Member
Location
Spain
I need another marathon plus for the front they only did the rear so I will get that done elsewhere and get a second opinion.
 

Brandane

Legendary Member
Location
Costa Clyde
Measure it. A new chain should be exactly 12" between rivet eyes when under tension. If it is longer (>1/16") it has wear. If you've been fleeced make sure you're compensated for your trouble and report to trading standards.
12" between rivet eyes? Sounds more like the anchor chain from some of the ships I used to sail on! :thumbsup:

To OP, remember that some new chains aren't necessarily shiny. Some cheaper ones are made from grey looking metal.
 

e-rider

crappy member
Location
South West
I need another marathon plus for the front they only did the rear so I will get that done elsewhere and get a second opinion.
you are missing the point here. You say "I need another marathon plus for the front they only did the rear so I will get that done elsewhere" - buy the tyre and fit it yourself - it's as easy as opening a can of beans!
 
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