Car D.I.Y.

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Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Are you sure the clutch needs changing? other than not having a lot of clutch pedal is it slipping?
Yes but no but yes.

Best way I can describe it is push the clutch to the floor, pop it in first and start the car with the handbrake off and you'll feel it move slightly as the clutch drags.

Changing gear is problematic especially when hot. Double declutching helps as does rec matching. Problem is mainly getting it in first when stopped. There are no gear selection issues when engine is off and the box feels nice and tight.

There is no fluid loss and pumping the pedal doesn't change anything. I've had it to two clutch specialists one who seemed great (but has had to close for a few weeks) both diagnoses a clutch. Apparently it's the standard mode of failure for these. (Hyundai i40)

Apparently when they take the clutch out they don't appear much more than 50% worn. But give these symptoms and the only way to remedy is to change the clutch. Clutch God 1 was surer than sure it was the problem and I'm minded to agree with what he says.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Choices, risk holiday in failing car or rent/borrow a nice car, no worries
 
D

Deleted member 26715

Guest
Think I'd be tempted to just do the clutch & then do the flywheel at a later date IF the issue occurs
 

Scottish Scrutineer

Über Member
Location
Fife, Scotland
Im now considering finding someone to fit just the clutch kit (bearing, friction plate and pressure plate).

Would the learned folk here advise on the sensibility of that? The car seems really smooth and no flywheel noise. I'm more concerned that the flywheel will be worn and won't resolve my issues. (Low clutch bite/dragging clutch)

Any views.
I'd be wary about going down that route. The clutch on my T5.1 went at 236k miles, the symptoms were intermittent loss of the pedal which came back with a bleed and when stripped the dual-mass flywheel was clearly knackered as well as the release bearing.

Video of DMF


View: https://youtube.com/shorts/2KDLrjMlp84?feature=share
 

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Think I'd be tempted to just do the clutch & then do the flywheel at a later date IF the issue occurs

Got a garage having a look tomorrow. He's up for doing just the clutch kit, but will look at the DMF both before he strips and and when it's stripped.

If it's obvious knackered then it'll need changing and I'll have to find one, but if it looks okay he's happy to build it back up and we can revisit it or not as required.

I only do about 4k a year so it's potential to outlast the car. My previous car have 220k on the flywheel. Twas a bit tired.
 

cosmicbike

Perhaps This One.....
Moderator
Location
Egham
Volvo number 2, the 1998 V70R, has been my ongoing project. Now the engine is pretty much sorted I moved onto other stuff, and decided on a quick hour to bleed the brakes yesterday before it got too hot. Which is why I was still there at 1130, 2.5 hours later. A leaky valve on my Gunsons pressure bleeding thingy being the cause. Glad I did it, the old stuff was green. Just over 1 litre later and all nice and clear.
Also 1 hour on the 240, oil and filter change. Love the old cars, so easy to service.
Next up is SWMBO Fester, a modern lump which likes expensive oil...
One day, on day I'll actually get some time in on the Capri....
 

cosmicbike

Perhaps This One.....
Moderator
Location
Egham
If this is the same Ford, Citroen, Peugeot, Volvo lump, just buy the expensive stuff through gritted teeth, you'll regret it if you don't

It is, and I do, these modern things are fussy. Mind you, the old pinto in the Capri is too, likes a high zinc content.

I think far more fun will be had with the V70 next week. When removing the NSF wheel to bleed the brakes I got black grease on my fingers, and found the out CV gaiter starting to crack, must have just caught it. Rather than split the CV joint I've bought one of the stretch fit type boot that comes with a cone, will see how that goes. In the interim the 240 is my daily.
 
D

Deleted member 26715

Guest
Never had much success with that type on the past so stay clear of them I try were possible to get the shaft out of the CV
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
I've used the stretch fit boot and cone method on the 205 without issue. It's a Godsend as Peugeot driveshafts were a bit different from normal and not that straightforward to take apart as you need to remove the whole thing to work on it and the driver's side one has a carrier bearing on in it.
 

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Moving in from the clutch job. Car is with original clutch God for it to be fettled today.

When did coolant get so complicated! I need to fix a coolant leak and will change the coolant.

The manual just says use antifreeze and water FFS.

Tempted as I am to put in Blue I think I'm going to go with red (if only to keep it the same as the missus honda jazz)
 

Scottish Scrutineer

Über Member
Location
Fife, Scotland
Tempted as I am to put in Blue I think I'm going to go with red (if only to keep it the same as the missus honda jazz)
As it's an older cooling system, it should be fine with most coolant types, it's only the later vehicles with alloy blocks, pumps etc that are fussy. I'd go with red OAT anti-freeze if the Honda is the same. Makes life easier.
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
Yes but no but yes.

Best way I can describe it is push the clutch to the floor, pop it in first and start the car with the handbrake off and you'll feel it move slightly as the clutch drags.

Changing gear is problematic especially when hot. Double declutching helps as does rec matching. Problem is mainly getting it in first when stopped. There are no gear selection issues when engine is off and the box feels nice and tight.

There is no fluid loss and pumping the pedal doesn't change anything. I've had it to two clutch specialists one who seemed great (but has had to close for a few weeks) both diagnoses a clutch. Apparently it's the standard mode of failure for these. (Hyundai i40)

Apparently when they take the clutch out they don't appear much more than 50% worn. But give these symptoms and the only way to remedy is to change the clutch. Clutch God 1 was surer than sure it was the problem and I'm minded to agree with what he says.

Had a similar problem but it was years (decades :whistle:) ago. Difficulty engaging gears, put in 1st, start car, felt as though it was already biting....clutch release bearing
 
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