Car D.I.Y.

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Jameshow

Veteran
 
Not a fan of Hankook tyres; from personal experience when they are worn down to around 4mm I find that they start to slip and can’t grip when starting off resulting in some awful shudder in the cabin.

Falken tyres have been a mixed bag for me, I don’t know if it’s my tyre size but I’ve found them prone to punctures or getting a slit in the sidewall. Happened to me three times now and I’m only driving a scenic!

I’ve decided when it comes to tyres it’s best to pay out for premium and focus on wet grip most.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
I think tyres can vary. I had a set of Maxxis and 3 of the 4 developed slits on the side walls within 4 years and they still had 5mm tread.
 

Bonefish Blues

Banging donk
We were going for the Avon's as they were cheap, but they are on back order and they don't know when they will get them. The offer we got reduced the tyres to about £130 each

Good call there - the Avons are plumb last in many tests, and if there's a good deal to be had on the CC2s, then a great buy.
 

nagden

Über Member
J
A quick update. Took the car to the car spares shop. They tested everything and concluded that the alternator was us. I will pick up a replacement Wednesday.

Quick update on the alternator nightmare. I fitted another one which made zero difference. After checking everything without a result I was resigned to putting the car into a garage. I spoke to a mechanic in the bar this morning. He explained that the small plug next to the positive terminal comes from the ignition and activates the alternator and that they were well known for failing. He advised me to cut it off and put on a small terminal and connect it with that. He even offered to help me if I couldn't sort it. Good outcome for the price of a coffee.
 

DRM

Guru
That is ridiculous as a design, an alternator is a dumb part, the engine makes it turn, therefore electricity comes out of the other end and charges the battery, it doesn't need to be anymore complicated than that, other then a diode to stop the electric going the other way and a voltage regulator to prevent the battery boiling dry
 

Jameshow

Veteran
That is ridiculous as a design, an alternator is a dumb part, the engine makes it turn, therefore electricity comes out of the other end and charges the battery, it doesn't need to be anymore complicated than that, other then a diode to stop the electric going the other way and a voltage regulator to prevent the battery boiling dry

That's a dynamo you describe an alternator works differently iirc.
 

midlife

Legendary Member
My Impreza had some sort of "smart alternator" which had a variable output. If the car had a sulk it would output zero! Seemed OK if I had the air con on all the time as that seemed to wake it up.
 
That is ridiculous as a design, an alternator is a dumb part, the engine makes it turn, therefore electricity comes out of the other end and charges the battery, it doesn't need to be anymore complicated than that, other then a diode to stop the electric going the other way and a voltage regulator to prevent the battery boiling dry

Not anymore, a lot of alternators are actively controlled by the ECM. Pulsed width modulation to control amount of charging
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
That is ridiculous as a design, an alternator is a dumb part, the engine makes it turn, therefore electricity comes out of the other end and charges the battery, it doesn't need to be anymore complicated than that, other then a diode to stop the electric going the other way and a voltage regulator to prevent the battery boiling dry

The Aygo's alternator failed - well the diodes did, so it was trying to be a motor with the engine off - passed the charge tests, but you could watch the battery voltage drop ovr a short time. Started draining the battery once it failed. Took a bit to diagnose, as I could hear a faint hum, then traced this to a warm alternator...
 
My F150 has developed a weeping power steering hose. So in light of its age and need of an overall. I've ordered full workshop manual from the states. I ve sorted all the part and numbers I need. So I will be changing coolant hoses, serpentine belt, tensioner, water pump, transmission filter and cooler lines (reports of fracture). All the fluids, oils and brakes.

Just over $800 in parts and whatever the fluids cost
 
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