Ceramic bearings upgrade.

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Tim Hall

Guest
Location
Crawley
Two per wheel, but check the front and back take the same size.

IME the locknuts (presumably what you mean by bearing caps) aren't adjustable. Want to go faster? Pedal harder.
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
By the bearing caps I assume you mean the seal.
Fine screwdriver, insert it gently under the seal lip on the inner race and it will flip out. Less friction is the idea. They will usually press back in if you want to and you don't damage it getting it out. Downside is you lose protection to dirt or moisture...but Fulcrums for instance place the unsealed side to the inside of the hub where it's clean and unaffected anyway.
 
I've got ceramic bearings in a few places my last wheel set had them too but I don't think I'd rush out to retrofit them after reading reviews. If you can spin like a washing/industrial machine 1000rpm they do deliver an efficiency gains but at low speed they don't.

This is one of them:
http://road.cc/content/feature/175644-ceramic-bearings-pros-and-cons
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Check that they are compatible with your hubs. You'll need a bearing press to get them installed. Probably not worth it.
 

flake99please

We all scream for ice cream
Location
Edinburgh
I would source some NSK or SKF bearings with the highest ABEC rating possible (7 minimum).

The higher the number, the better tolerances found.

Better tolerances = Less rolling resistance
 
U

User6179

Guest
I would source some NSK or SKF bearings with the highest ABEC rating possible (7 minimum).

The higher the number, the better tolerances found.

Better tolerances = Less rolling resistance

I looked into this before and found this,

"The ABEC rating does not specify many critical factors, such as load handling capabilities, ball precision, materials, material Rockwell hardness, degree of ball and raceway polishing, noise, vibration, and lubricant. Due to these factors, an ABEC 3 classified bearing could perform better than an ABEC 7 bearing."
 

flake99please

We all scream for ice cream
Location
Edinburgh
An ABEC 3 rated bearing manufactured by NSK or SKF would perform better than an ABEC 7 (or 9) bearing manufactured by some generic Chinese company. That I would have no argument with.

NSK & SKF are Japanese manufactured, so tolerances are exceptionally small. The other criteria mentioned are amongst the very best in the bearing industry.
 
U

User6179

Guest
An ABEC 3 rated bearing manufactured by NSK or SKF would perform better than an ABEC 7 (or 9) bearing manufactured by some generic Chinese company. That I would have no argument with.

NSK & SKF are Japanese manufactured, so tolerances are exceptionally small. The other criteria mentioned are amongst the very best in the bearing industry.

Yes I use SKF myself, but my point is a higher ABEC rating does not mean necessarily less rolling resistance.
 

flake99please

We all scream for ice cream
Location
Edinburgh
To a certain extent perhaps. A shielded ABEC 7 could have greater rolling resistance than an unsheilded ABEC 5. There’s a plethora of reasons that rolling resistance is compromised.

You’ve made a good choice with the SKF btw. :okay:
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
The hybrid ceramic bearings in Milzys post already have low contact seals (as you'd probably expect with higher grade bearings).
A compromise if cost is making you squeek is to fit good quality low friction sealed bearings.
My Fulcrums came with standard OEM bearings which were TBH, really quite sluggish when new. I fitted (In my case) SKF 6001-2RSL or -RSH bearings. These have low friction seals (the L or H suffix of the part number..H being the old designation IIRC)
The difference was instant, they just rolled so much easier and only cost a fraction of hybrid ceramics, let alone full ceramics.

I'd love to try some ceramics, perhaps they're a whole new level again....but im happy with the improvement the SKF bearings gave me.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
There's always one true rule of thumb when doing anything on bicycle bearings and that is that ceramic ball bearings are BS. Always. No exceptions.
Ceramics make some sense (sort of) in very high performance applications if the bearing surface is designed for them
If the bearing surface is of the right material, you can run oil not grease (since the main reason to use grease is to limit corrosion and with ceramic balls on, say, a stainless surface, there is no corrosion risk to speak of), which reduces the viscous preload on the bearing ... but although the effect is measurable, it's not significant in the context of normal use.
Hybrid ceramics only really work at all in cases where the bearing surface that the balls are running on is already of exceptional quality ... and so the limitation of smoothness transfers from the bearing surface to the balls. Not many makers *really* have surfaces of that quality and the distortions in surfaces caused by practices like interference fitting can easily put paid to the concentricity and alignment of the bearing components anyway..The bearing components are limited in their performance, in their turn, by the accuracy of manufacture of the seats that the bearing surfaces are pressed into or the accuracy of manufacture of the axle and associated hardware that the cones (in this case) are fitted to and with.
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/f...-bearings-made-of-butter.217201/#post-4768715
 

migrantwing

Veteran
An ABEC 3 rated bearing manufactured by NSK or SKF would perform better than an ABEC 7 (or 9) bearing manufactured by some generic Chinese company. That I would have no argument with.

NSK & SKF are Japanese manufactured, so tolerances are exceptionally small. The other criteria mentioned are amongst the very best in the bearing industry.

SKF are manufactured in many countries now. I have some manufactured in Germany and some others in Italy. They used to be predominantly manufactured in Sweden and Germany.
 
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