Chain oil for bikes - cheaper alternative?

[raleighnut]

I think chainsaw oil is vegetable oil; it's supposed to be biodegradeable and it doesn't need to do its job for more than a brief moment before being flung off, which is why it is constantly fed to the chain by a very low geared pump and galleries in the chain bar. As such it's quite a viscous sticky oil and I would expect it to collect dirt - it certainly holds sawdust around the working parts of the chainsaw, building it up into a horrible sawdust slush. Bike chain lube on the other hand is AFAIK a wax dissolved in a volatile solvent, which carries the wax into the links then evaporates leaving a dryish chain.

All oil comes from a vegetable/plant source, just because its been buried in the ground for a while (admittedly a looong while) doesn't mean its not organic in origin and the best oil for lubricity and film strength is actually Castor Oil.
As for chainsaws the pump is set up to provide maximum lubrication in temperatures far below freezing and all quality chainsaws have an oil flow adjuster screw (left off on cheaper models) to regulate the oil flow. (mind you that is one chain that you don't want to be around if it should snap)

 

[Drago]

Hypoid Gear oil. Very cheap, quite sticky compared to oils, very well suited to maintaining oil film strength under pressure.

Only downside is it smells foul.

 

[ColinJ]

I did find chainsaw oil rather too sticky for my liking. I have gone back to proper bike chain oil.

Me too. It is the only oil that I have ever used that made the transmission feel LESS efficient than a dry chain!

It also made a right mess - it was a dirt magnet. After a few rides I had to scrub my chain, and then I went back to conventional lube.

 

[raleighnut]

Hypoid Gear oil. Very cheap, quite sticky compared to oils, very well suited to maintaining oil film strength under pressure.

Only downside is it smells foul.

I swapped from Hypoid 90 (free from my mates garage to me, although I may have to help him bleed hydraulic brakes or a clutch when I'm there or "just hold that " duties) to Chainsaw oil cos of the reek.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

I like chainsaw oil but you have to be sparing with it (just a drop per link) and be sure to wipe off the excess thoroughly a la the Mickle method (link) otherwise it does make a mess.

 

[Globalti]

Hypoid Gear oil. Very cheap, quite sticky compared to oils, very well suited to maintaining oil film strength under pressure.

Only downside is it smells foul.

It smells ghastly. This is EP90, it's used in heavy duty applications like Land Rover transfer boxes, differentials and swivels. I certainly wouldn't want it anywhere near my chain! You'd be taking your delicate bicycle back to the 1940s. What a stinking mess it would make of your transmission.

 

[Mr Celine]

I only use chainsaw oil in my chainsaw.
Check oil tank is full before starting, then start engine and run the saw in front of a light coloured surface to confirm the oil is being thrown off the chain. After using the saw remove the congealed lumps of oil and sawdust and wipe down the machine.

I've tried various methods of lubricating a bike chain but using an oil which gets flung off the chain, collects dirt and generally makes a mess isn't one of them.

Bike chain oil might be expensive per litre, but I doubt I'll use a litre in my entire lifetime.

 

[Globalti]

When I rode a chain-driven motorbike I used to take off the chain and boil it in a big round tin of black wax, which penetrated the links and resisted being flung off. Anything lighter would end up spattered all over the rear of the bike. Shaft drive was a fantastic little bit of technology, especially on a commuter.

 

[ColinJ]

I like chainsaw oil but you have to be sparing with it (just a drop per link) and be sure to wipe off the excess thoroughly a la the Mickle method (link) otherwise it does make a mess.

Maybe I did overdo it ...?

I will give it one more go because I have a 500 mL bottle which will otherwise go to waste. I'll use the smallest amount that I can get away with and see what I think. (I still reckon it will be too sticky though. If it works properly when used sparingly then it is definitely a bargain at less than 1/10 the cost of what I normally use.)

 

[zacklaws]

I use all sorts of oil, depending on the state/age of my chain, my favourite is Chain-L for new chains for the first 1000 miles, its reputed to be chain saw oil, smells like it and just as thick, but I have found that chain saw oil bought to use in my chain saw can vary from thick to watery stuff which B&Q sells, so user's of it for bike chains could be having different experiences. Chain-L, has to be applied whilst warm (just noticed that warming it up is no longer in the instructions) and just a tad to the rollers, it will blacken your chain after riding but you just wipe it clean if your not happy. Its also good for high mileage rides. One other noticable thing about it is it quietens your transmission down more than anything else I've used.

http://www.chain-l.com/

Once my chain starts to age and showing a bit of wear and getting close to its end of use, I'll use anything on it, from Wilko's own bike oil, Hypoid gear oil, engine oil, 3 in 1 etc,

At the moment for an experiment, I'm trying Finishline wet ceramic, just to see if it does give you a longer chain life, but time will tell.

The likes of Chain-L, Finishline etc may be expensive, but used correctly, a 4oz bottle will last a long time

Another thing I do is, apply oil to the rollers with a small modelling paint brush which is more controllable than straight from the bottle.

 

[bpsmith]

Am I alone in using Muc Off Ceramic Lube?

Seems like I am an outcast, on here, using bicycle chain lube on my...bicycle.

 

[Colin_P]

Just to add my recipe;

I use red ATF fluid (automatic transmission fluid) Cheap and good and I just happen to have loads of it in the garage.

The thing with oiling I find is that it is always best to apply loads and wipe, wipe and wipe again. There is little point having it all over the outside other than to stop it rusting but by applying loads initially it gets into the jiblets of the chain where it counts! Applying loads and wiping also lifts and washes away any harmful grit.

 

[goody]

Diesel £1.20 a litre.

 

[Crankarm]

Well I am another who is a convert to using chain saw oil on their bike chains. Have done so for the last couple of years, riding quite a few miles each week approx 175-210miles, it is usually about 4-6 weeks between cleans and re-lubes depending on the weather. I can ride for about a week of rain before it is all washed off the chain as opposed to one journey either way to or from work using expensive "bicycle chain lubes". One litre of Machine Mart chain saw oil cost me £4.99. I take a chain off, then use Car Plan engine degreaser and a tooth/nail brushes to thoroughly clean it in a tin tray, rinse in water, then wash with WUL, then rinse again in a bucket then wipe vigorously through a clean cotton rag such as an old T-shirt. Put in oven at 50C for 30 minutes then hang up to cool to room temperature. Finally dip in a container of chain saw oil then hang up over night for the excess to drip back into the container. Next morning refit to my bike. Transmission runs so smoothly and silently. Eazy peazy. I run two chains so whilst one is fresh back on the other that has just come off will be cleaned at my leisure.

 

[Browser]

Am I alone in using Muc Off Ceramic Lube?

Seems like I am an outcast, on here, using bicycle chain lube on my...bicycle.

Nope, Muc-Off C3 Wet ceramic lube here, bought it as (a) Muc Off stuff usually works well and (b) I was being a tarts handbag by thinking the 'ceramic' bit might actually mean it was better than more ordinary chain lube

Seems to work well though, good adhesion in all weather conditions and a nice quiet chain.