change a triple to compact

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Garz

Squat Member
Location
Down
Well, yes. But I don't see how occasionally needing to shift more than one gear obviates the usefulness of close ratio gears.

You seem to find it hard to accept that for yourself the close ratio block is necessary yet for myself or some others it's no big deal. Changing between 17t to 19t without the 18 must bring you out in sweats! :rofl:

I have used a computer for about a year now and if I want to monitor my cadence I try to maintain 90-100 when I feel like it. This to me is better than selecting the right gear on feel alone, and although I can see why to some it is annoying having a gap or two, the greater annoyance is not having the range to comfortably scale that unknowing climb after 60 miles just because I was too stubborn to adapt from my close ratio block.

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MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
You seem to find it hard to accept that for yourself the close ratio block is necessary yet for myself or some others it's no big deal. Changing between 17t to 19t without the 18 must bring you out in sweats! :rofl:

I have used a computer for about a year now and if I want to monitor my cadence I try to maintain 90-100 when I feel like it. This to me is better than selecting the right gear on feel alone, and although I can see why to some it is annoying having a gap or two, the greater annoyance is not having the range to comfortably scale that unknowing climb after 60 miles just because I was too stubborn to adapt from my close ratio block.

wink.gif

I blame the combo brake levers and gear changers, having a bit more experience of STIs now, I can confidently say I change gear a lot more with them than I ever have before...though some of that will be the novelty factor. When I had to move my hand to shift gears, I've been on group rides when we hit a longish rolling patch. All around I hear gears going up and down as the terrain changes and I've just carried on in the same gear, varying my own effort. These group rides have also included people on fixed or SS and we all seem to arrive at the same time :whistle:

I wonder if some of the older riders, with a history of down tube shifters, feel the same? Has their riding style changed now that gear shifting is easier?
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
...the greater annoyance is not having the range to comfortably scale that unknowing climb after 60 miles just because I was too stubborn to adapt from my close ratio block.

wink.gif

But I have the range. In fact I have the best of both worlds. [somesortofsmileything]
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
I wonder if some of the older riders, with a history of down tube shifters, feel the same? Has their riding style changed now that gear shifting is easier?

How old is 'older'? I started riding in the 50s.
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
any age really, just anyone with longish experience of DT or barend shifters that now uses STI/Ergo/SRAM, just curious as to whether it had changed their riding styles?

Yes. I do change more often. That might be just because age weakens the legs. On the other hand, when I'm on fixed I just get on with it.
 

Garz

Squat Member
Location
Down
But I have the range. In fact I have the best of both worlds. [somesortofsmileything]

Yes Ian sir, which is why it works well for you. Just ask the general CC posters to submit their ranges and you will find not all can get away with a 12-23 chiefly due to terrain or fitness reasons.

I cycled last year on a 12-23 and managed (I wouldn't say too comfortably), however this year on my n+1 my range is now 12-27 and I do get absolutely everything. It can take panniers (already has mudguards) so I got the range to enable a light tour.

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yello

Guest
I've sourced a Stronglight Impact 48/34 for less than £50. That should give me something to start with.

It'll be a JIS fit on an ISO bottom bracket which Uncle Sheldon suggests will both work and, luck would have it, might actually be to my advantage. That because the compact will sit 4.5mm further in on bb than the triple, but it is spec'ed to require a shorter bb length than my veloce anyway (107 v 115). I doubt it'll give a perfect chain line, unless I'm very lucky, but it'll not be far away. I suspect getting the mech to shift cleanly will be a bigger problem anyway.

Another thing will be going from my current 170 crank length to 172.5. In practice, I'm hoping this will not be a problem but it'll be an interesting experiment either way.
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
Yes Ian sir, which is why it works well for you. Just ask the general CC posters to submit their ranges and you will find not all can get away with a 12-23 chiefly due to terrain or fitness reasons.

I cycled last year on a 12-23 and managed (I wouldn't say too comfortably), however this year on my n+1 my range is now 12-27 and I do get absolutely everything. It can take panniers (already has mudguards) so I got the range to enable a light tour.

wave.gif

I think you're forgetting my granny.
 
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yello

Guest
Update: I did need a new bottom bracket. Sadly, Uncle Sheldon's advice was a little off and whilst the compact JIS chainset fitted onto the ISO bb, it slid too far down the axle (more than 4mm) and would have jammed up against the frame if tightened up.

Fortunately, I have a bottom bracket tool for the Stronglight bb (a Shimano one I have fits). Unfortunately, I cannot get the old Campag bb out! Not for love, money or topless photos of Jennifer Anniston (why her? Dunno!)

I think it's just, um, well bedded in due to having never been removed in maybe 7 years. I've taken British threaded Campy bbs out before, and I know bbs in general do sometimes require a bit of welly to get them out. But let me just confirm something before I do myself or the bike some damage - in case I'm being really stupid. You undo the non-drive cup first, yes? It is anti-clockwise, yes?
 
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yello

Guest
Cheers raindog. I thought it was non-drive side first but that video clearly says drive side. I'll treble check in a bit... my Zinn manual is in the toolshed.
 
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yello

Guest
Definitely non-drive first. I looked at an old Veloce bb yesterday and the drive side is fixed. It's the non-drive that's removable.

Also, found this for a Record bb...

Fit a Campagnolo-designated bottom bracket wrench onto the left, non-drive-side bottom bracket cup. The cup is the external portion of the bottom bracket and holds the bottom bracket in place inside the bottom bracket shell on the bicycle frame. Rotate the wrench counterclockwise to loosen the cup.
 
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yello

Guest
So I removed the bb.... eventually. My Park Tool spanner was not up to the task and rather than b*gger things up (my knuckles included!) I went out and bought big fo 32mm combo open ended/box spanner. That did the trick. Nothing like a good bit of hefty leverage! Then I didn't like the look of the threads in the frame so took the bike onto my lbs to have it re-threaded (result that, they did it as I waited and only charged me €6 - around a fiver, bargain methinks).

From there, it was pretty simple. Bb greased up and screwed in nicely, new compact chainset fitted and tatty old Look pedals put on. Then repositioned the front mech and adjusted the limit screws to effectively blank out the 3rd gear. It all shifts surprisingly cleanly! Then a short test ride (still too damned hot to go far) just to check. I reckon there's room for fine tuning but it seems good, I'm optimistic.

The real test is whether it works for me. I've not changed the cassette, still with the 12-23, so where I might miss the gears is at the bottom end - going from 35" to 39". If I do, I have options there. Campag do a 9 speed 13-26 or 13-28 even. I ride fixed 63" around here anyway, so I reckon I could be ok. At the top end, I reckon I'll be fine. I very very rarely rode 50x12 so won't miss it methinks.

Edit: proper test, tomorrow am, before the heat of the day.
 
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