Change QR axle to Bolted axle??

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NotFabian

EACC
Location
Co. Antrim
I'm nearing completion of my singlespeed project (possibly evolving into fixed in the future if it and I get along) anyway...

I have used an old(ish) set of fulcrums which have QR hubs, my question is can the rear be converted to bolts?
Has anyone on here done it and how?

I'm hoping I'll have more consistent chain tension with a bolted axle.


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chillyuk

Guest
Yes you can, and as long as you know how to fit and adjust bearings the job only takes a few minutes per wheel. Just buy a wheel axle assembly, they come complete with cones, bearings, the axle, some even with a tube of grease. Uncrew the cone locking nuts on your QR axle, remove the nuts, cones and bearings off one side then pull out the axle from the opposite side. Essentially reverse the procedure with your new axles.
 
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NotFabian

NotFabian

EACC
Location
Co. Antrim
Chilly, just what I wanted to hear...thanks for ur reply, the job sounds reasonably straightforward, I had the wheels on earlier and took first ride along my street, really pleased with it so far, if i stayed wuth QRs i think chain tension will give me a headache cause it slackened a little even with the short ride.
Thanks again.
 
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NotFabian

NotFabian

EACC
Location
Co. Antrim
Had this checked and ur right, its a pity cant use both fulcrums, they look good. Gonna have to use an old wheel I have lying about in the mean time, it'll have to do cause I don't want to spend MORE money.
Thanks all for ur help.
 

Soltydog

Legendary Member
Location
near Hornsea
Is it feasable to use the security skewers which fasten with allen keys ?
 

ASC1951

Guru
Location
Yorkshire
I'm hoping I'll have more consistent chain tension with a bolted axle.
The usual reason for chain tension varying is because components - especially chainwheels - aren't as round or centred as they should be. It doesn't matter with a derailleur but I've had chainsets which are far too irregular to ride fixed with. Sheldon has an good article on how to optimise a standard drive chain for fixed.

Having a bolted axle instead of QRs won't make any difference to chain tension unless you are talking about the wheel moving because it isn't done up tightly enough. You can get QRs plenty tight enough for fixed road use, although I suppose bolted axles give you some psychological comfort. I use bolts at the moment but have ridden fixed on the roads with QRs without any problem.
 
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NotFabian

NotFabian

EACC
Location
Co. Antrim
The usual reason for chain tension varying is because components - especially chainwheels - aren't as round or centred as they should be. It doesn't matter with a derailleur but I've had chainsets which are far too irregular to ride fixed with. Sheldon has an good article on how to optimise a standard drive chain for fixed.

Having a bolted axle instead of QRs won't make any difference to chain tension unless you are talking about the wheel moving because it isn't done up tightly enough. You can get QRs plenty tight enough for fixed road use, although I suppose bolted axles give you some psychological comfort. I use bolts at the moment but have ridden fixed on the roads with QRs without any problem.

You're using bolts now and they're not any better than QRs?
After reading ur post I checked the chainring and its not perfectly round, it was part of a double on a geared bike, I can understand why that would make the chain more slack at certain points of the rotation. I had the skewer very tight when using the fulcrum wheel, I was a bit wary of overdoing it incase I broke something.

Anyway...the bike is stripped down for paint so I'll maybe consider the 'security' skewers.
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ASC1951

Guru
Location
Yorkshire
You're using bolts now and they're not any better than QRs?
I am using them because Deeside Cycles supplied my current fixie with them in. I'm sure they are absolutely bomb-proof. All I'm saying was that my QRs never came undone either i.e. bolts may be better but they aren't essential.

After reading ur post I checked the chainring and its not perfectly round, it was part of a double on a geared bike, I can understand why that would make the chain more slack at certain points of the rotation. I had the skewer very tight when using the fulcrum wheel, I was a bit wary of overdoing it incase I broke something.
If you have the wheel fastened securely - whether by bolts or QRs - and the chain is slack at some points it must be a malformed sprocket or a malformed chainwheel. Usually it's the chainwheel/spider because irregularities in the sprocket aren't big enough to make a difference.

You will be lucky to get a a chainset from a geared bike which is round enough to get a really tight chain. I've got a specific track chainset and even that isn't spot on. Sheldon has a useful paragraph on adjusting the stack bolts to get the tension as close as your components will allow and, as usual, his pages are the best place to start.
http://sheldonbrown....conversion.html
 
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