Cold setting rear stays

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Sittingduck

Legendary Member
Location
Somewhere flat
Hi

So, roughly how difficult is it to cold set the rear triangle on a Reynolds 531 frame, if I want to convert it to SS/Fixed? I have read that you just need a solid piece of wood and some string to act as a plumbline. Sounds like there is potential for disaster to me. Any of you folks have much success with this?

Cheers muchly
SD
 

Herzog

Swinglish Mountain Goat
Yep, I've done it. It took some nerve, but it's really not difficult. What's the current OLD and what OLD do you need to achieve?
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
I've done it by hand on one frame, was very easy but on a better frame I did it with a threaded rod, it's surprising how far past you need to go to get the required spread. The rod method is more precise and can also allow you to compare alignment as you progress...bit of string down the middle worked for me :biggrin:

My starting info was from Charlotte:-

http://velopoly.com/

if that link doesn't work right then it's from 09/11/09
 

jim55

Guru
Location
glasgow
prob the safest way to do it is with some threaded rod and washers /nuts and just distribute the force evenly ,,much more precise
 
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Sittingduck

Sittingduck

Legendary Member
Location
Somewhere flat
OK thanks chaps - will investigate these Rods.

Herzog, it's a standard road wheel (Tiagra hub, I think) 135mm? Going to typical size for fixed or SS, I think that's 120mm?

Cheers
SD
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
To make a proper job you should realign the dropouts. There are tools for this, but you can use two longish bolts, as big as will fit in the slot. Fit the bolts so that the ends nearly touch then exert force until they form a straight line.
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
Alternatively you could always find an old bike shop where they'll do the lot in minutes for a few quid
Someone has to come along and spoil the fun.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
Hi

So, roughly how difficult is it to cold set the rear triangle on a Reynolds 531 frame, if I want to convert it to SS/Fixed? I have read that you just need a solid piece of wood and some string to act as a plumbline. Sounds like there is potential for disaster to me. Any of you folks have much success with this?

Cheers muchly
SD
Unless I read you wrongly unlike most people you are intending to go the opposite way from road spacing to SS/fixed? The potential for disaster is much less in your case than spreading the frame, where bridges and brazings can crack and split.

Also standard road wheel is 130mm, not 135mm.

Alternatively there is nothing stopping you using a 130mm hub spacing. Some even use 135mm hubs to take advantage of being able to use mtb hub disc mount for the fixed sprocket.
 
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Sittingduck

Sittingduck

Legendary Member
Location
Somewhere flat
Food for thought... thanks all. I am not fully decided if I want to convert it or not just yet. I start thinking about things and it just escalates... you know how it is :whistle: I was very close to hitting the order now button on a £860 road bike earlier and I don't even need one!! Ugh... must control these crazy urges (but it is SUCH a bargain).
 

Manonabike

Über Member
I have a Reynolds 531 that I use with a 130mm wheel.... it used to be a 126mm so you can expand the dropouts by hand to fit the wheel, its only 4mm. I found that after a while I hardly need any effort to expand the dropouts when refitting the wheel so I guess they must now be already 130mm or very close to that. If the frame is one of the very early ones then is probably 120mm in which case this method is not possible.
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
I've spread lots of frames (including from 120mm up to 135mm :crazy: but don't know that I'd bother squeezing a frame in. Just add spacers on the axle, much less faff, and something extra that you can use to help get the chainline right.
 
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