Do link extractors fit all types of bike chains?

[youngoldbloke]

It's easy. To remove a link when fitting a chain, or in an emergency on the road, use a chain tool; to join or rejoin a chain use a quicklink.

 

[silva]

Also, it is unlikely that a peened pin can be used again after being pushed out.

You mean pushed through?
Of course it can, deforming the rivets back towards the pin like it was before requires big hammer blows while a chain tool just pushes gradually, allowing metal to deform plastically.
The link plate is the eventual permanent deforming part of the story.
Hollow pins are a different story due to embedded inside the link plate instead of protruding outside it, a 50 50 story and less material so case hardened without elastic material backing it up, either side "loses", that is, permanently deform, even both, a weakened connection, or no connection at all, is virtually guaranteed.

 

[silva]

It's easy. To remove a link when fitting a chain, or in an emergency on the road, use a chain tool; to join or rejoin a chain use a quicklink.

I assembled my last and currently mounted chain from a part of a new complete chain and remainders of 3 earlier chains, as to be eco friendly (grin). So I had to hammer 3 pins back into holes, AND I used the new quicklink so that I can remove the chain easier when needed. Best of both worlds.

 

[Ajax Bay]

the shape of their metal surfaces is designed to match each other so that no metal is deformed beyond its elastic region.
A thin roller chain link plate, does not match the rivets, and gets deformed beyond it, leaving a weaker connection.

I thought this was a good analysis.

@C R said: "it is unlikely that a peened pin can be used again after being pushed out." You mean pushed through?
Of course it can, deforming the rivets back towards the pin like it was before requires big hammer blows while a chain tool just pushes gradually, allowing metal to deform plastically.
The link plate is the eventual permanent deforming part of the story.
Hollow pins are a different story due to embedded inside the link plate instead of protruding outside it, a 50 50 story and less material so case hardened without elastic material backing it up, either side "loses", that is, permanently deform, even both, a weakened connection, or no connection at all, is virtually guaranteed.

@silva - You say: "Of course a peened pin can be used again after being pushed through." Do you mean you think a peened pin can be used again successfully, disagreeing with @C R ?
Have you joined many 11sp chains? I thought you were an 1/8" chain aficionado. Have you joined, both successfully and unsuccessfully chains with "hollow pins"? Just asking. Or is this just theoretical?

 

[silva]

I thought this was a good analysis.

@silva - You say: "Of course a peened pin can be used again after being pushed through." Do you mean you think a peened pin can be used again successfully, disagreeing with @C R ?
Have you joined many 11sp chains? I thought you were an 1/8" chain aficionado. Have you joined, both successfully and unsuccessfully chains with "hollow pins"? Just asking. Or is this just theoretical?

See the chain at the right side of the picture.
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/d...-all-types-of-bike-chains.289348/post-6879055
I talked about the peening/riveting method that makes 2 180 degrees opposing dents in the pin ends cross section circumference, with the stamps angled (45°?), so the dents go towards the pin center and also away from the pin end, towards the link plate/eye.
There is no problem pushing pin back in, as long as the link plate is thick enough to have an amount material "in the way" (=locking into place, the purpose of riveting) that roughly matches the amount material that the riveting pushed outside the circumference of the pin. That routes out speed counts that are achieved by link designs that do not meet that condition.
It's not so that pushing a pin back results in a weak connection per se.

 

[Ajax Bay]

If I read/infer that right that's "no, none, no, yes". Compliments of the season to you.

 

[notmyrealnamebutclose]

Could you not use the old chain pins or a strong nail then use a nail punch to shroud it over.
I resent paying £5 for 1 link

 

[ColinJ]

I resent paying £5 for 1 link

So did I, so I searched on ebay and found a company selling multipacks of no-name links for not-a-lot! (I have lost the details of exactly what I bought, but it was something like THIS - 5 links for £3.04, including delivery from China!) They took about a month to arrive. I thought that they might be cheap and nasty but they seem to be pretty good - I haven't had one fail!

Let's face it - for that kind of price, it isn't much of a risk, providing you don't have one snap when standing up and sprinting...

 

[notmyrealnamebutclose]

So did I, so I searched on ebay and found a company selling multipacks of no-name links for not-a-lot! (I have lost the details of exactly what I bought, but it was something like THIS - 5 links for £3.04, including delivery from China!) They took about a month to arrive. I thought that they might be cheap and nasty but they seem to be pretty good - I haven't had one fail!

Let's face it - for that kind of price, it isn't much of a risk, providing you don't have one snap when standing up and sprinting...

Yeah I bought something similar but just 2 pack not 5. They look ok but not had to use one yet. I've seen those
replacement pins you can buy separately but some of them are like an eyewatering £17 or more for
some super fancy over engineered top end chain, which to me is taking the wotsit. Also seen a pack of
3 for about £7 tbf but it got me thinking about alternatives!

You really don't want your chain snapping when out of the sadle that's for sure. We've all heard the
saying 'a chain is only as strong as its weakest link' but how does a chain cope with the stresses involved?
Is the main (max) load spread over all the area of the chain that is between the chainring and the rear
sprocket? Therefore each link would take a percentage of the pressure, similar but not exactly like a house
brick in a wall? Idk

 

[ColinJ]

You really don't want your chain snapping when out of the sadle that's for sure.

It was a slipped chain rather than a snapped one, but my extremely painful and gory teen cycling accident confirmed that!

We've all heard the
saying 'a chain is only as strong as its weakest link' but how does a chain cope with the stresses involved?
Is the main (max) load spread over all the area of the chain that is between the chainring and the rear
sprocket? Therefore each link would take a percentage of the pressure, similar but not exactly like a house
brick in a wall? Idk

Every link in the top part of the chain has the full force acting through it and passing it to the next one. The ones in the bottom section of chain have very little tension on them. Obviously the chain moves round so all links get the full load and minimal load repeatedly.

I have had a couple of chain links fail but they were not quick links.

 

[ColinJ]

Every link in the top part of the chain has the full force acting through it and passing it to the next one. The ones in the bottom section of chain have very little tension on them. Obviously the chain moves round so all links get the full load and minimal load repeatedly.

That might be different for a fixed gear bike...?

 

[Ajax Bay]

Every link from where the chain leaves the sprocket tooth to where it's caught by the top tooth on the chainring is at the same tension 'full load'.
The last link on the sprocket, indeed the last few links if the chain is worn (elongated) and the first link, indeed the first few links (worn chain) on the chain ring will have some tension, way less than the top section.
The bottom section of the chain and as the chain goes through the pulley wheels has low tension.
Quantatively, the max tension on a chain is roughly twice body weight, so for an 80kg mass person, ~1600N.
This assumes in inner ring (~85mm radius for a 39t) and 170mm cranks and out of saddle no power from leg extension.
A rider pedalling with that force/crank length at 60rpm would be putting out 800w (assumes average force all round pedal stroke). Clearly the Hoys of this world push out more but they are turning a bigger ring at a higher cadence (and he's more than 80kg!)
One really wants to mitigate any risk that a chain will fail on you. If a rider is not competent joining a chain, use a branded quick link correct for the chain 'speed'. Do you use cheap brakes blocks/pads to save money?

 

[ColinJ]

One really wants to mitigate any risk that a chain will fail on you. If a rider is not competent joining a chain, use a branded quick link correct for the chain 'speed'. Do you use cheap brakes blocks/pads to save money?

Both of my failed links were on branded chains (SRAM) and the 7 or 8 broken chains that I have repaired for other riders probably were too.

I had a good look at my el cheapo quicklinks before trusting them and they looked well-made. Obviously, looks can be deceiving, and caution is advisable, but I have had no problems with them.

As for buying cheap brake spares... ALWAYS!! I have been very hard up for years so I bought what I could afford. No problems with those at all, and I use them on steep Yorkshire/Lancashire descents at speeds exceeding 80 kph (50 mph)!

 

[Ajax Bay]

Off topic

As for buying cheap brake spares... ALWAYS!! I have been very hard up for years so I bought what I could afford. No problems with those at all, and I use them on steep Yorkshire/Lancashire descents at speeds exceeding 80 kph (50 mph)!

Please ensure that your executor/dear friend / relative has your CycleChat login details, @ColinJ so they can let us know when there's been a problem at the end of a descent, of the 'tis 'ard oop north' variety, with cheap brake blocks on the front.
Rim brake blocks (expensive at £11 a pair) last 11,000km so that's 0.1p per km. One pint of beer = 4000km.
Though perhaps you have disc brakes for those rides with wicked descents, with cheap pads.

 

[ColinJ]

Off topic

Please ensure that your executor/dear friend / relative has your CycleChat login details, @ColinJ so they can let us know when there's been a problem at the end of a descent, of the 'tis 'ard oop north' variety, with cheap brake blocks on the front.
Rim brake blocks (expensive at £11 a pair) last 11,000km so that's 0.1p per km. One pint of beer = 4000km.
Though perhaps you have disc brakes for those rides with wicked descents, with cheap pads.

I might have mislead you... I don't buy unbranded brake blocks/pads, just not big name branded!

What? A right load of B***LOCKS ...!

PS There are 2 different types there. One type for the 9-speed Campag on my Basso, the other for the 10-speed Campag on my Cannondale. I bought so many because Discobrakes do a very special offer on 4 pairs, and it is always good to keep spares. In fact, a mate has already bought 2 pairs from me. (No - I did NOT sell them at a profit ... I actually lost about 4p on the deal! )

Blimey - I just checked - the price has gone up A LOT since then! 4 pairs for just under £30 still isn't too bad though, especially since I now have a little more money coming in from my pensions.

I have 3 blocks left from that batch but it will soon be time to buy another decade's worth!