Thanks for this.
Not a great picture, but outer diameter of the threaded section is between 4mm and 5mm. Thread pitch is about 11 twists/cm.
View attachment 800159
Closer to 5 than 4? I think it is likely to be a standard M5.
Thanks for this.
Not a great picture, but outer diameter of the threaded section is between 4mm and 5mm. Thread pitch is about 11 twists/cm.
View attachment 800159
Closer to 5 than 4?
Update: I got a set of bolt remover bits and things seemed to be going well - the bit was definitely biting into the hole of the barrel adjuster, then suddenly the end of the bit snapped off inside the barrel housing and now it's completely blocked 😆.
To make it rideable, I've mackled it so that the chain is permanently on the large chainring (rear derailleur unaffected of course) so it's usable to a fashion.
Not sure what to try next to be honest!
Update: I got a set of bolt remover bits and things seemed to be going well - the bit was definitely biting into the hole of the barrel adjuster, then suddenly the end of the bit snapped off inside the barrel housing and now it's completely blocked 😆.
To make it rideable, I've mackled it so that the chain is permanently on the large chainring (rear derailleur unaffected of course) so it's usable to a fashion.
Not sure what to try next to be honest!
Is the barrel adjuster end accessible at all from the lower end of the boss?
That's what I was thinking.
Cut the cable and remove. If there is enough showing, cut a slot with either a junior hacksaw, or such like and then unscrew with a screwdriver.
Is the barrel adjuster end accessible at all from the lower end of the boss?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Origin-Origin8-Alloy-Cable-Stop/dp/B07K34MF7R
Depends on how drastic you want to be. You'd need to angle grind the existing cable stops off and replace it with one of these.
I'd try using a full covered cable to the front mech maybe with an inline adjuster.
Why would it need to be fully covered? Is that how inline adjusters work?
The stop on the frame is unservicable now,