Finding correct saddle height

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scotthunter

Well-Known Member
I am trying to perfect my saddle height on my Giant TCR road bike and while I think I have it in the correct ballpark, after watching several YouTube videos I am slightly confused about the correct methodology for an exact fit. I just want to clarify some assumptions used in the straight leg / heel method.

Starting with measuring my in-seam, I use the hardback book and marking on a wall with a pencil then measuring from the floor to the mark method. I do this in bare feet, but should I be in my padded cycling shorts doing this, just underwear or wearing nothing? As the result is usually at least 5mm different.

Now once I have got within the ballpark using the Le Mond method, I then use the straight leg with the crank lined up with the seat tube method to fine tune it to the nearest couple of mm. Should I be doing this with my cycling shorts and cycle shoes on? Just for info I have Dura-Ace R9100 pedals and S-Works 7 shoes and I am wearing all my kit when doing this. Am I aiming for a complete lock-out of the leg in this position without any lowering of the hip and should the heel of my shoe just be scraping the top of the pedal? I note that there is a small rubber block on the heel of the shoe - does this method account for this? Lastly, does contact need to be made with the pedal with your foot exactly horizontal with no fore-aft tilt?

Thank you very much for your help.
 

vickster

Legendary Member
Are you getting pain in your knees or hips when cycling?
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
You should be wearing what you’d typically wear when riding the bike. So shorts you’ll normally wear and cycling shoes. If saddle too low you’ll feel in the quads not far into a ride. If it’s too high you’ll feel it in your hamstrings or you’ll be pointing your foot down with your hips rocking a little. The heel on pedal method is just to get ball park. Once set go for a ride and see how you get on. Then move it a small amount up or down depending on how you get on. But don’t adjust it every 5 mins give it time to get a feel for it. It doesn’t have to be millimetre perfect to be comfortable just good enough.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
Ultimately there is no absolute mathematical "right" saddle height, and the Lemond and Richard's Bicycle Book formulae are just both fairly good ball-park methods which may need subsequent fine tweaking empirically.
What you are trying to do is make saddle adjustment an exact science, which it isn't, and it's a mistake to try to over-complicate things in that way. If you set the saddle using the mathematical formulae, and then do the heel on pedal method, you are going to get very very close to the optimum - but the important thing to note is that different riders pedal in slightly different ways, such as some pointing their toes down more than others. This means that two riders with absolutely indentical inside leg measurements and leg bone proportions may find their personal optimum saddle position is not the same.
Once you have got the setting in the right ball-park, then any further fine tuning should be done purely with the criteria of comfort and the avoidance of any knee pain or unwanted hip rocking movements. When you get a bike saddle spot-on, you just know it because it feels good and you can ride for a considerable time or distance without getting too much fatigue and your knees don't get sore.
 

gavroche

Getting old but not past it
Location
North Wales
I use the 109 method. Multiply your in-seam measurement ( metric system) by 109, then transfer that measurement from the top of your pedal at 6 o'clock to the top of the saddle. Mine is 87.3cm.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
I use the 109 method.

So do I, and my 1982 copy of Richard's Bicycle Book has probably been re-read a dozen times in the 37 or so years I've had it. The Lemond method (which I only found out about relatively recently) gives a very slightly lower result for me. My actual setting will usually be neither number, but close to both. I find it varies slightly between bikes, most likely according to how slack the geometry is.
 

steveindenmark

Legendary Member
Take an allen key out with you and make tiny adjustments while out riding. You will soon get it right.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
So do I, and my 1982 copy of Richard's Bicycle Book has probably been re-read a dozen times in the 37 or so years I've had it. The Lemond method (which I only found out about relatively recently) gives a very slightly lower result for me. My actual setting will usually be neither number, but close to both. I find it varies slightly between bikes, most likely according to how slack the geometry is.
lemond method is based on 175 mm cranks, most of my bikes are 170s so i find adding 5 mm makes it right and comes up close enough to my heel on pedal method .
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
lemond method is based on 175 mm cranks, most of my bikes are 170s so i find adding 5 mm makes it right and comes up close enough to my heel on pedal method .

That explains the differences then as most of mine are also 170's and the 1.09 method tends to give a height result 1/4" more than Lemond.
 
I've just take a short video and as I have had some considerable pain on one side of the groin I've put it down to my saddle on playing the vid noticed that on cycling when bikes in turbo trainer that I've slight rock in my hips hardly any anything but its noticable soo Perhaps saddle is a tad to high Though perhaps its just due to a recent saddle change perhaps the new one is slightly thicker having gone from a Fizik to a Pro Falcon (which having measured my sit bones realise that the saddle I'd been using a saddle which not wide enough) anyway what do you all think? thanks
 

vickster

Legendary Member
Are you using the same padded shorts too? Some are more padded than others

Are you doing any stretching of hip flexors, hamstrings etc?
 
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