Kajjal
Guru
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- Wheely World
Why did you not just ride home?
I tried it for a bit but the chain grinding against the front mech continually when using the small chainring with the numerous hill climbs ahead I didn’t see the point.
Why did you not just ride home?
Use the limit adjusting screw to move it on to a bigger rear cog?I tried it for a bit but the chain grinding against the front mech continually when using the small chainring with the numerous hill climbs ahead I didn’t see the point.
Use the limit adjusting screw to move it on to a bigger rear cog?
I tried it for a bit but the chain grinding against the front mech continually when using the small chainring with the numerous hill climbs ahead I didn’t see the point.
A snapped gear cable shouldn't cause the chain to grind against the mech. That would indicate that the appropriate limit screw wasn't adjusted properly. In which case, you're lucky it wasn't the rear mech cable that broke or you'd have been digging the chain out from between the cassette and the dropout.
Next time (if there is a 'next time') screw the lower limit screw in on the FD to 'trim' it across to keep the cage clear of the chain when in the small chain ring, and use the higher limit screw on the RD to get across (ie up the cassette) as far as you can. Alternatively secure the broken end of the RD cable (eg round a bottle cage screw), push the RD cage to a middle sprocket and resecure the anchor bolt on the RD. Then at least you have 2 effective gears (assume double or compact).When the rear cable snapped the rear dropped into 11th / smallest cog as you would expect. In the small front chainring this caused rub on the front mech with the chain.
As an aside sram specify a different gear cable thickness to most others (1.1 mm for sram vs 1.2 mm for everyone else ... I think) I always use 1.1 mm for my Sram setup but I've read other people who say the extra 0.1mm makes no difference at all.