Giant Road E+ 1

[proton666]

Just picked mine up. It’s a 2018 model (well, here anyway) but looks the same as the 2017 photos I have seen on this site.

Dealer says the big change is in the the motor. It can better assist at higher RPMs (cadence) now, so he says (he was unable to giving any details however). Haven’t had time to put that fully to the test yet. (I’m one of those lucky Bas#$@s who lives in California so I get assist up to 27 MPH (43 KPH)).

But, I’m having a bit of a problem with the Giant dealer network out here. Basically, no one selling this bike can answer some rather basic questions.

I have combed the Giant site for a user and or shop manual but the information is a bit rudimentary so I’m connecting with other owners for some help.

Like, why is there a USB port on the control panel? To downloading / uploading information (if so how)? And / or to charge the control panel ( isn’t it connected to the onboard battery pack? Is it so the control panel doesn’t die when the bike battery is removed (i.e. no flash memory)?)

Basic wheel axial specifications ( I want to go off road, cyclocross, this winter and want a second set of wheels to do that with). The quick release skewers look a bit different from my other bikes so I’m bit paranoid about buying wheels that my not be compatible or potentially unsafe.

More in-depth explanation of the workings of the speed / torque control system. Like what sensor gathers what input and how? Great to have this knowledge so when you get an error, or assistance stops during a ride because you throw a magnet for example, you can fix it before it become a bigger problem.

I can do a lot of this with a set of calipers and deduce others though trial and error but sure would be handy if it was available from Giant so I could just print it out and stick it to the wall by the bike for reference.

Maybe I should just chill and let my Giant dealer deal with it (I’m not use to buying a built bike. In the past I have always assembled my own) but if they can’t answer the question in the first place where do they go to get the answer?

 

[Pale Rider]

The Yamaha motor uses speed, cadence and torque sensors.

The speed sensor is activated by a spoke magnet on the rear wheel which passes the sensor on the chainstay - all of which will be visible.

You will need a second magnet if you change the rear wheel.

It's also easy to knock the magnet out of alignment when porting the bike, so that's the first thing to check if the system acts up.

The cadence and torque sensors are inside the motor casing, so you can't see or tinker with those.

The display has an inernal battery which will last for years and/or be charged from the main bike battery.

It's unlikley you will have any problem with the display, unless you leave the bike unusued for months and months at a time.

 

[sight-pin]

IIRC, I think the USB is for charging your mobile phone etc.

 

[Pale Rider]

IIRC, I think the USB is for charging your mobile phone etc.

On Bosch bikes the USB is dual function, a low voltage power output and also a diagnostic port which dealers with the software on their laptops can use to upgrade the bike's software, and also fault find and access the bike's history in terms of the number of recharges and the like.

The Yamaha system may be similar although I don't know if it is or not.

 

[sight-pin]

Don't have a USB on Mine (2016 model). I'm just wondering if i could change the speed rating/Maybe wheel size with a different combination of buttons pressed.

 

[proton666]

On Bosch bikes the USB is dual function, a low voltage power output and also a diagnostic port which dealers with the software on their laptops can use to upgrade the bike's software, and also fault find and access the bike's history in terms of the number of recharges and the like.

The Yamaha system may be similar although I don't know if it is or not.

Hmmmm… So, if suddenly my local rules change (for better or worse) the dealer could potentially alter my assist level through the USB port?

I asked my local dealer about the UBS thing today and he was, as usual, less than enlightened on the matter. Going back in on Tuesday to ask the weekday crew.

Another question my dealer has not be able to answer is if the power pack comes in different sizes. I read somewhere that there are 500wh, 400wh and 300wh versions (unclear if they fit the Road-e). I would love to get a lighter 300wh one as a back-up to carry along on a few brutal rides I have in mind that could exhaust the 500wh pack alone.

 

[Pale Rider]

Don't have a USB on Mine (2016 model). I'm just wondering if i could change the speed rating/Maybe wheel size with a different combination of buttons pressed.

If you mean make it assist above 15.5mph, then telling it you are running smaller wheels than you are - if that's possible - may do that.

A better solution would be a dongle, the Badass ones work well but they do scramble the speedo/odometer.

Not a problem if you use another device such as a Garmin.

https://www.badassebikes.com/

Hmmmm… So, if suddenly my local rules change (for better or worse) the dealer could potentially alter my assist level through the USB port?

I asked my local dealer about the UBS thing today and he was, as usual, less than enlightened on the matter. Going back in on Tuesday to ask the weekday crew.

Another question my dealer has not be able to answer is if the power pack comes in different sizes. I read somewhere that there are 500wh, 400wh and 300wh versions (unclear if they fit the Road-e). I would love to get a lighter 300wh one as a back-up to carry along on a few brutal rides I have in mind that could exhaust the 500wh pack alone.

It may be possible to change the assist level and cut off point via the USB port and appropriate software on a laptop.

Knowledge among dealers of this type of stuff does not appear to be widespread.

There are lots of dealers in the UK who sell Bosch bikes, but many don't have the Bosch diagnostic software on a laptop.

All the dealer can do is ring the Bosch service centre and send bits of the bike off for service or replacement.

 

[sight-pin]

If you mean make it assist above 15.5mph, then telling it you are running smaller wheels than you are - if that's possible - may do that.

A better solution would be a dongle, the Badass ones work well but they do scramble the speedo/odometer.

Not a problem if you use another device such as a Garmin.

https://www.badassebikes.com/



It may be possible to change the assist level and cut off point via the USB port and appropriate software on a laptop.

Knowledge among dealers of this type of stuff does not appear to be widespread.

There are lots of dealers in the UK who sell Bosch bikes, but many don't have the Bosch diagnostic software on a laptop.

All the dealer can do is ring the Bosch service centre and send bits of the bike off for service or replacement.

Yeah I'd really like to increase it a little, the 15.5 assist is a too low, I'd just like a little more speed around 18 mph ish before cut off would be good.... A couple of seconds after pulling away i'm at the no assist level on the flat most times.

 

[TyrannosaurusTreks]

The USB will charge phone, lights & gps, when I asked when picking up bike about adjusting speed limit they didn't think it could be done through USB port but until the law changes over here they won't say yes or no.
With this unit being cambus I would think there is adjustment there.
I will say with Giant I've had a few early problems where I had my first bike replaced with the 2017 model then I had to have the dash unit changed, I have never had such good warranty work done.

 

[proton666]

If you mean make it assist above 15.5mph, then telling it you are running smaller wheels than you are - if that's possible - may do that.

A better solution would be a dongle, the Badass ones work well but they do scramble the speedo/odometer.

Not a problem if you use another device such as a Garmin.

https://www.badassebikes.com/

Kinda neat if someone was to jail brake it via the USB port.

The motor already has a torque sensor so it could be like having a mini built in PowerTap letting you see / graph your work contribution and generally giving you a more accurate picture of your workout for example.

Obviously, fine tuning the assist level would be great too especially since you would be able to add or subtract just a bit to the assist limit (say 4 or 5 mph) where as all the dongle options I have seen simply doubles the assist limit (great but…).

Not holding my breath. Few people ride these things let a lone hack them.

 

[TyrannosaurusTreks]

Been pushing my speed up the last month trying to stay around 18-19
mph, passed these 3 riders quite easily on the flat.
When we got to a junction up the road one of them said looking at my bike I bet that helps, my reply was only on the hills.
You could see in his face yeah right, I suppose the Real riders think electric bike means no work?.
I do think the giant is a lovely stable bike to ride & seems to glide smoothly on the road.

 

[sight-pin]

IT can be hard work pushing past the assistance when against wind etc, I'm normally too out of breath some times.

Just been looking at battery charging and noticed this below: Do you think It'll be ok to discharge the battery over a few days. I only road 15 miles yesterday and still have 82 or more % left (mainly sport mode) My usual ride is 20 ish miles 3 or 4 times a week. but bit worried about leaving it not charged whilst discharging for over the week. It's bleeding raining here today

"Should I always empty my EnergyPak completely before recharging?
• There is no need to do complete discharge every time. Complete discharge every 3 months is
appreciated for refreshing EnergyPak management."

 

[Pale Rider]

Ebike batteries give the best service life if recharged regularly and used 'from full' as often as possible.

Recharging after every ride, unless it was literally only a mile or two, is the best policy.

But running it down over a few rides over a week won't make much difference.

As your instructions say, running the battery until the motor cuts out is worth doing every few months.

 

[TyrannosaurusTreks]

I'm finding my battery is still giving me 130 plus I try to get down to 10% then charge fully, so maybe I should charge more often as I try to get in 50miles a week when time & weather lets me.
So to discharge I run battery flat while out or is there another way?.

 

[sight-pin]

I've been charging mine about twice a week after 2 rides, roughly 60% left.
I don't use eco mode, find it too hard, may as well ride my normal road bike . I use sport mode most, my elevation is between 700-1000 ish feet in 20 miles.
If i was to ride in 'normal' i recon I'd get 80-100 miles per charge depending weather.

Edit: Lowest I've let it go is 44% left the battery.