OP
OP
Deleted member 20519
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BB shell measures 71.25mm. Seatpost diameter was 25.45mm and the handlebar diameter is 24.95mm.
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ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
Did you remember that it undoes in the opposite direction to the first one?Got itI managed to remove one of the cups and then the spindle but the other cup seems to be stuck tight.
Got it
So try the Sheldon Brown bolt method that Compo and I have been banging on about. It's just so good.
RecordAceFromNew
Swinging Member
- Location
- West London
I think it is likely that you have a Raleigh 71mm bb shell, which are for all intents and purposes obsolete. You can confirm that by checking if the cup you have removed is 26tpi rather than 24tpi.
With 25.4mm (i.e. 1") seatpost, this might help narrow down what frame it is.
The handlebar size seems a bit unusual. Where is that measurement made? At the stem or at the grip?
If the bearing surfaces of the cups and spindle, especially the cups, are smooth and sound, I would not bother removing the remaining stuck one yet. I would clean them up, and see what needs replacing. If cups are fine I would measure the spindle length and see what markings are on it, and see if there is a way to reuse or replace that. If you have to replace the whole bb the easiest is with a threadless one.
OP
OP
Deleted member 20519
Guest
Thanks for all the info guys. Is there going to be a problem using quick release with horizontal dropouts?
OP
OP
Deleted member 20519
Guest
Nope, just use an internal cam skewer as shown below, and do them up nice and tight.
Would these ones be suitable? http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000B7J7JM/ref=asc_df_B000B7J7JM13561454?smid=A1MVOUW2EB3HKK
OP
OP
Deleted member 20519
Guest
Brilliant. Ordered a few small parts today - stem, seatpost and brake pads - rest of the stuff should be ordered this week 
OP
OP
Deleted member 20519
Guest
Still haven't gotten the damn BB cup out yet
Is there any problem with having a space between the two nuts?
Single speed conversion kit
Stem + still unsure of whether I should cut the bars to use bullhorns or stick with drops
Is there any problem with having a space between the two nuts?
Single speed conversion kit
Stem + still unsure of whether I should cut the bars to use bullhorns or stick with drops
edindave
Über Member
- Location
- Auld Reeker
I dunno if it's my eyesight deteriorating but the spoke pattern on those wheels looks really odd!
Unfortunately, yes. Have you ever serviced a cone & locknut wheel hub? The principle behind threaded headsets is very similar. Start by tightening down the lower nut. It should be tightened down until there is no play in the headset, but the forks still turn freely.
Now, holding the forks so they can't rotate (I use my knees, or you could ask a friend), and holding the lower nut so that it won't move (which would change the preload on the bearings), tighten down the upper nut until it is fairly tight against the lower nut. This keeps the whole assembly from unscrewing which would lead to play in the headset.
OP
OP
Deleted member 20519
Guest
I don't know if you can make this out in the picture but the upper nut can't be tightened any further, it's just stopping once it reaches the top of the steerer.
In that case the headset is missing some spacers (similar to threadless headset spacers, but only 1") between the two nuts which stops the upper nut from running out of thread.
OP
OP
