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Teuchter
Über Member
- Location
- Erskine, Scotland
Loosen the nut on the cotter pin until it is flush with the top of the pin.
Apply penetrating oil (Plus Gas for example. Not WD40).
Wait. Wait some more. Have a cup of tea. Cut the grass. Wait.
Support the underneath of bottom bracket on suitable lumps of wood.
Hit the end of the cotter pin/nut with hammer until it moves.
Undo nut.
Remove crank.
Repeat for the other side.
Or there's this nifty method:
Apply penetrating oil (Plus Gas for example. Not WD40).
Wait. Wait some more. Have a cup of tea. Cut the grass. Wait.
Support the underneath of bottom bracket on suitable lumps of wood.
Hit the end of the cotter pin/nut with hammer until it moves.
Undo nut.
Remove crank.
Repeat for the other side.
Or there's this nifty method:
It should repaint fine. Just remember to put lots of time in to the preparation. Use paint strippers to remove the worst of the paint, then sand it down well, including all of the little gaps that paint may still be hiding in. Don't leave it too long between stripping the frame and repainting it, otherwise rust could start to form on the bare metal. Before you paint the frame you want to ensure it is free from dirt and oils. Wiping it down with a cleaning solvent (acetone or isopropyl alcohol are good for this).
Assuming you're planning on painting at home (whether brushed or sprayed) the finish likely won't be as long lasting or durable as a professional stove enamel job (Argos cycles can do this for ~£140), so if you pick a common colour you should be able to find a direct match for touch-up jobs pretty easily (black or white are good for this).
When painting remember to apply a primer first, and sand with a higher-grit paper in between each layer (apart from the last one, obviously) to allow the next layer to adhere properly. Many thin layers of paint are better than fewer thicker layers. Having a final layer of clear-coat can give the paint a bit more protection and also make it look nice and shiny. Finally leave the frame a good week or two for the paint to cure properly if you want a more hard wearing finish.
Brush painting is less time-intensive, and is very easy to touch up. The final finish won't be as good but it may be harder wearing depending on the paint you use.
Your other options are to get it powder coated, or ride it as is. Giving it a good clean up and riding it as is may be a sensible course of action for now until you're sure you're happy with the frame. This is what I would personally do until I had the bike build up and knew I was happy with it.
On the other hand you may be able to get it powder coated cheap. Ask around if you can get your frame done at the same time as another clients piece of work. You'll have less choice of colours, but may get it done surprisingly cheaply.
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OP
Deleted member 20519
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The cranks are off! Thanks @Tim Hall for the instructions!
@HovR Thank you for the detailed painting instructions! Would you suggest building it up to make sure that it fits before I get into painting it?
Also, what would I need? What parts am I going to need to buy to get this into a functioning bike?
@HovR Thank you for the detailed painting instructions! Would you suggest building it up to make sure that it fits before I get into painting it?
Also, what would I need? What parts am I going to need to buy to get this into a functioning bike?
OP
OP
Deleted member 20519
Guest
I believe that the bike used to be red.
Yep, I would. Seems sensible to me, that way if the frame is too small you will be able to sell it on, keeping the components for a new frame.
The very first thing I'd sort out is the bottom bracket. The bottom bracket and chainset you have on there will work until it breaks if you can find a good source for cotter pins. Once it breaks it will be hard to find replacements, so I'd be looking at swapping it out for a modern square taper system with a sealed BB.
The first issue here is finding out what type of threading and length of bottom bracket the frame will take, as we do not know the make. The first bit is easy, finding out the width of the bottom bracket shell. Simply measure it with a ruler, ignoring any bits of bottom bracket - just the width of the shell.
The next thing you will need to is find out the threading standard. Hopefully it is ISO/British standard, as these bottom brackets tend to be the cheapest/easiest to find. The easiest way I know to check this is to try threading in a BB that you know if ISO/British threaded if you have one lying around. Don't force it though, as you don't want to ruin the threads. Ensure the threads are clean and lubricated. @RecordAceFromNew might be able to help more with working out the threading standard.
Once you know the threading standard of the bottom bracket you can look in to getting a crankset and BB. If it is in fact British/ISO standard threading, I'd recommend the Stronglight ST55 as a cheap single speed chainset. I coupled mine up with a Shimano 115mm BB on my Peugeot, although I probably could have dropped to a 113 if I'd wanted a closer chain-line.
Assuming the fork and headset are fine, you'll also need:
A quill stem, most likely for 1" steerer. Length of your choice.
Handlebars to suit. Could be flats/drops/bullhorns. Make sure the diameter of the bars is compatible with the quill stem clamp.
Bar tape
Brake levers. These will depend on the bars you choose, I like Cane-Creek SCR5 for modern styling drop bar brakes.
Seat post (pick a long one for most adjustability (400mm is nice and long)
Seat post clamp
Saddle
Chain
Brake cables
Brake pads
Brake calipers if you want to swap to modern ones, but the old ones are probably fine.
You said you already have wheels and a single-speed kit for the rear wheel, so I've left those out, and I've mentioned BB and chainset above.
I may have missed something, but I'm sure someone will add it to the list if I have.
Pedals
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Deleted member 20519
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I've just measured the BB shell, it measures 7cm. I don't think I'll keep the BB that's on the bike right now, it seems to be sticking at some points and the chainset was bent. I've got a BB lying around with English threading so I can try that one, I need to remove the old one first but I've got no idea how.
I've cleaned and regreased the fork and refitted the ball bearings, all of that seems to be fine.
@biggs682 gave me some drops that I plan to cut down and turn into bullhorns.
What do you think of TT levers for bullhorns? http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/BLTKTL7/tektro_tl720_tt_lever___pair
I was thinking about getting Shimano SPD pedals but it would mean I would have to buy new shoes, I'm thinking of getting SPD-SL's so I can use them with my current shoes.
Thank you for the information! It's extremely helpful
I've cleaned and regreased the fork and refitted the ball bearings, all of that seems to be fine.
Do you have any recommendations on a particular stem?
@biggs682 gave me some drops that I plan to cut down and turn into bullhorns.
That's cheap, I quite like the BBB stuff from CRC.
What do you think of TT levers for bullhorns? http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/BLTKTL7/tektro_tl720_tt_lever___pair
Charge Spoon
I'll take a look at the old ones and see what kind of condition they're in, I'll get some new pads too.
I was thinking about getting Shimano SPD pedals but it would mean I would have to buy new shoes, I'm thinking of getting SPD-SL's so I can use them with my current shoes.
Thank you for the information! It's extremely helpful
biggs682
Touch it up and ride it
- Location
- Northamptonshire
I've just measured the BB shell, it measures 7cm. I don't think I'll keep the BB that's on the bike right now, it seems to be sticking at some points and the chainset was bent. I've got a BB lying around with English threading so I can try that one, I need to remove the old one first but I've got no idea how.
Do you have any recommendations on a particular stem?
What do you think of TT levers for bullhorns? http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/BLTKTL7/tektro_tl720_tt_lever___pair
Thank you for the information! It's extremely helpful
Quill stems are a much of muchness to be honest. I'd be looking at picking up one off eBay. Almost all quill stems (that I know of) should be designed to fit a 1" steerer, but you'll have to make sure the clamp that holds on the bars is the right diameter. If you don't know the width of the bars, then try to get hold of some digital calipers - perfect for accurately measuring things!
I've never tried TT levers in home-made bull horns, but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work as long as the ID (inside diameter) of the bars is correct.
I'm off to eat a curry now, more about bottom brackets when I get back if someone hasn't beaten me to it! Some photos might help in the mean time though.
Taken from elsewhere and pasted in:
Unfortunately there are several bottom bracket shell widths and several different threads:
68 and 73mm English threaded with a left handed thread, tightens anti-clockwise, on the drive/right side.
70mm Italian threaded with right handed thread both sides.
And some more besides: http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html - scroll down the page a bit and you'll see a table with the various widths and types.
68 and 73mm English threaded are the most common, followed by 70mm Italian threaded. But, because it's an older Sun Worksop frame, made by Raleigh, it might be a 71mm BB shell with a thread peculiar to older Raleigh made frames.
If the bottom bracket shell width is closest to 70mm, check to see which way the drive side bearing cup undoes. If it undoes anti-clockwise, it's probably an Italian threaded bottom bracket and these are readily available: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=71369
If it is an old Raleigh size BB, then you'll probably have to hunt around for a NOS (New Old Stock) Raleigh bottom bracket or something like a Phil Woods bottom bracket, for which you can get Raleigh 26tpi cups: http://www.philwood.com/products/bbpages/ssbb.php. The Phil Woods bottom brackets needs cups and a special installation tool, so while it's very good quality and will probably last a lifetime, it's an expensive solution.
Unfortunately there are several bottom bracket shell widths and several different threads:
68 and 73mm English threaded with a left handed thread, tightens anti-clockwise, on the drive/right side.
70mm Italian threaded with right handed thread both sides.
And some more besides: http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html - scroll down the page a bit and you'll see a table with the various widths and types.
68 and 73mm English threaded are the most common, followed by 70mm Italian threaded. But, because it's an older Sun Worksop frame, made by Raleigh, it might be a 71mm BB shell with a thread peculiar to older Raleigh made frames.
If the bottom bracket shell width is closest to 70mm, check to see which way the drive side bearing cup undoes. If it undoes anti-clockwise, it's probably an Italian threaded bottom bracket and these are readily available: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=71369
If it is an old Raleigh size BB, then you'll probably have to hunt around for a NOS (New Old Stock) Raleigh bottom bracket or something like a Phil Woods bottom bracket, for which you can get Raleigh 26tpi cups: http://www.philwood.com/products/bbpages/ssbb.php. The Phil Woods bottom brackets needs cups and a special installation tool, so while it's very good quality and will probably last a lifetime, it's an expensive solution.
Compo's hit the nail on the head there I reckon. If 70mm is infact an accurate measurement then it appears to be an Italian threaded frame (some high-end French frames also used this standard).
The type of bottom bracket you have is made up of two cups. The 'fixed cup' on the drive side, and the 'adjustable cup' on the non-drive side, which will have a lock ring to hold it in place. In between these will be the spindle (in the frame, and poking out of the cup sides), which runs on ball bearings.
The 'fixed cup' is fairly easy to remove. You may need a specialist tool, but most of the time you can get away with a regular large spanner. A large adjustable may also work. If the frame is Italian threaded then the fixed cup will unscrew like any bolt, in an anti-clockwise direction (an English/ISO standard fixed side BB cup unscrews in the opposite way). Keep in mind that the cup could be held in there pretty well with corrosion, so give it a bit of welly, but try not to break anything! On one occasion I had to resort to a 6-foot extension bar in order to remove a well seized bottom bracket!
Once this is removed you will be able to remove the spindle and ball bearings.
The 'adjustable cup' is different in that it has a lock-ring that you need to remove first, before unscrewing the main cup. This lockring unscrews in the normal direction, but requires a specialist lock-ring tool. As you won't be using the BB again you can normally get away with putting an old (it could get damaged) flat head screwdriver in one of the notches and using a hammer to unscrew it. Mole grips or a pair of channel locks have also worked for me in the past to remove lock-rings.
Once the lock-ring is removed then you can unscrew the adjustable cup in the normal direction, using a regular spanner if it has spanner flats, or the same flat head screwdriver trick if it has notches for a pin spanner.
The type of bottom bracket you have is made up of two cups. The 'fixed cup' on the drive side, and the 'adjustable cup' on the non-drive side, which will have a lock ring to hold it in place. In between these will be the spindle (in the frame, and poking out of the cup sides), which runs on ball bearings.
The 'fixed cup' is fairly easy to remove. You may need a specialist tool, but most of the time you can get away with a regular large spanner. A large adjustable may also work. If the frame is Italian threaded then the fixed cup will unscrew like any bolt, in an anti-clockwise direction (an English/ISO standard fixed side BB cup unscrews in the opposite way). Keep in mind that the cup could be held in there pretty well with corrosion, so give it a bit of welly, but try not to break anything! On one occasion I had to resort to a 6-foot extension bar in order to remove a well seized bottom bracket!
Once this is removed you will be able to remove the spindle and ball bearings.
The 'adjustable cup' is different in that it has a lock-ring that you need to remove first, before unscrewing the main cup. This lockring unscrews in the normal direction, but requires a specialist lock-ring tool. As you won't be using the BB again you can normally get away with putting an old (it could get damaged) flat head screwdriver in one of the notches and using a hammer to unscrew it. Mole grips or a pair of channel locks have also worked for me in the past to remove lock-rings.
Once the lock-ring is removed then you can unscrew the adjustable cup in the normal direction, using a regular spanner if it has spanner flats, or the same flat head screwdriver trick if it has notches for a pin spanner.
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
I know that you seem to be getting quite into doing a nice renovation job, but earlier in the thread you posted this ...
(I had my nice-looking bike nicked from school 44 years ago!
)
... which makes me wonder whether it might be better leaving it looking a mess to put off would-be thieves?
(I had my nice-looking bike nicked from school 44 years ago!
)
