How much should I offer?

[Deleted member 20519]

I've been researching parts and I think I've come up with a budget/quality list.

3TT NOS quill stem - http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/ST3TQUID/3ttt_quid_quill_stem
Bar Tape - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/bbb-bht-01-race-ribbon-bar-tape/
Brake Levers - http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/BLTKTL7/tektro_tl720_tt_lever___pair
Seat post - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/system-ex-alloy-seat-post/
Chain - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=25431
Brake Cable Set - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Deore-M-System-V-Brake-Cable-Set-Inner-Outer-Front-Rear-MRRP-14-99-/290780920688
Brake Pads - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarks-CP100-Road-35mm-Brake-Blocks-Pads-Weinmann-Raleigh-and-Other-Calipers-/140857494962
BB (unsure if this is the right one) - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=34652
Chainset - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crankset-Single-Speed-Crankset-Lightweight-Alloy-46T-Crank-/121115093967
Tyres - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/vittoria-rubino-wire-bead-clincher-tyre/

I've got a saddle, wheels + SS conversion kit. Thanks to HovR's list, I can't think of what else will be needed.

Google estimates that this will cost around £140 for the lot which is a bit more than I had hoped for, if anyone here knows if there's any cheaper alternatives for things on that list please let me know.

 

[compo]

The 'fixed cup' is fairly easy to remove. You may need a specialist tool, but most of the time you can get away with a regular large spanner.

I've heard that before

The easiest way, if it is very tight, and on an old frame it probably will be, is to use a large nut and bolt. Put the nut inside the cup and screw the bolt through from the outside then use a long ratchet spenner to tighten the bolt and when it bites keep tightening until the cup moves. It can take a frighteningly amount of force to get it to move which is why you need a large nut and bolt that is strong enough to take the pressure. It isn't always this hard to unscrew them but as well to be prepared.

Obviously this wont work on an Italian threaded BB cup because they unscrew in the conventional manner.

 

[Tim Hall]

I've heard that before

The easiest way, if it is very tight, and on an old frame it probably will be, is to use a large nut and bolt. Put the nut inside the cup and screw the bolt through from the outside then use a long ratchet spenner to tighten the bolt and when it bites keep tightening until the cup moves. It can take a frighteningly amount of force to get it to move which is why you need a large nut and bolt that is strong enough to take the pressure. It isn't always this hard to unscrew them but as well to be prepared.

Obviously this wont work on an Italian threaded BB cup because they unscrew in the conventional manner.

It is a beautifully simple method. Possibly my favourite bit of bike tinkering. However it will also undo a right hand threaded cup. Just tighten the nut instead.

The Blessed Sheldon he say:

Nut on the Outside

The bolt is put through the cup from the inside of the bottom bracket, and the nut screws onto it from the outside. There should be washers on both sides of the cup. You will need a socket wrench and a short extension to tighten the bolt from inside the bottom bracket, and a box wrench for the nut.
A large socket wrench will not fit into the cup, so you will need some small-diameter washers to space the head of the bolt out so that the socket wrench can reach it. This is what I use the four split lockwashers for. I didn't need lockwashers as such, but the readily available flat washers were too large in outside diameter to fit into the cup.
To remove a right-threaded fixed cup (French or Italian), tighten the bolt with the socket wrench from the inside of the bottom bracket, holding the nut with the box wrench. Once the bolt is as tight as can be, keep on tightening it, until the cup screws itself out. Once the cup starts to move, turn both wrenches together.
To remove a left=threaded (British, Swiss or Raleigh) fixed cup, hold the bolt with the socket wrench and turn the nut with the box wrench.
Use the same tool the opposite way to install the new fixed cup.
You might worry about damaging the cup, but this is not likely to happen. The washer doesn't usually come into contact with the bearing surface. Even if it did, bearing cups are made of extraordinarily hard, heat-treated steel, much stronger than that used to make washers.

More here.

Back to the OP's BB. My guess is it's a 68mm (road standard, FSVO standard), plus a few decades of paint and grime and measuring error to give 70mm.

 

[compo]

It is a beautifully simple method. Possibly my favourite bit of bike tinkering. However it will also undo a right hand threaded cup. Just tighten the nut instead.

How come the most obvious solution so often eludes us? I never thought of that.

 

[HovR]

I've been researching parts and I think I've come up with a budget/quality list.

3TT NOS quill stem - http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/ST3TQUID/3ttt_quid_quill_stem
Bar Tape - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/bbb-bht-01-race-ribbon-bar-tape/
Brake Levers - http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/BLTKTL7/tektro_tl720_tt_lever___pair
Seat post - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/system-ex-alloy-seat-post/
Chain - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=25431
Brake Cable Set - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Deore-M-System-V-Brake-Cable-Set-Inner-Outer-Front-Rear-MRRP-14-99-/290780920688
Brake Pads - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarks-CP100-Road-35mm-Brake-Blocks-Pads-Weinmann-Raleigh-and-Other-Calipers-/140857494962
BB (unsure if this is the right one) - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=34652
Chainset - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crankset-Single-Speed-Crankset-Lightweight-Alloy-46T-Crank-/121115093967
Tyres - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/vittoria-rubino-wire-bead-clincher-tyre/

I've got a saddle, wheels + SS conversion kit. Thanks to HovR's list, I can't think of what else will be needed.

Google estimates that this will cost around £140 for the lot which is a bit more than I had hoped for, if anyone here knows if there's any cheaper alternatives for things on that list please let me know.

Cheaper chainset (Stronglight ST55, rings aren't replaceable but it'll last long enough for £20) http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s109p2188
Vittoria Zaffiro tires are slightly cheaper, although I've never tried them myself
Brake levers you could possibly get cheap second hand if you look around
Asda do £4 chains which seem to last well enough, both 3/32 and 1/2
Cheaper stems available on eBay - link
Beware of those brake cables, looks like they have mountain bike lever style ends only. You'll probably need road compatible unless you're going flat bar.

Also, the one thing I wouldn't go cheap on is brake blocks. I've got these on both my bikes now and am fairly impressed with the stopping power: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ashima-one-piece-black-brake-blocks/

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

@RecordAceFromNew might be able to help more with working out the threading standard.

Apologies for not having read this thread in detail, but it is worth checking the frame with this. If it is indeed old Raleigh proprietary thread then the issue is not just the bb, but probably also the headset. The other thing I would suggest, before spending money, is to find out what the seatpost size is, and perhaps weigh the frame (with as few bits as possible)?

 

[Old Plodder]

Vittoria Zaffiro - I ride them, OK for day rides.

 

[Deleted member 20519]

Vittoria Zaffiro - I ride them, OK for day rides.

I've got Rubino tyres on my road bike, never had any problems/punctures with them so I reckon I'll just get two of them.

 

[Deleted member 20519]

I know you guys are trying to help but I just ain't seeing how I remove this BB

 

[HovR]

See those two raised sections? Those are the spanner flats. Normally you'd use a tool like the Park HCW11, but for a one time use you can normally get away with a large adjustable spanner or mole grips.

 

[biggs682]

mind the knuckles

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

I know you guys are trying to help but I just ain't seeing how I remove this BB

They look like standard adjustable cups that have the lock rings removed to me (usually only the left cup is like this). As the link I provided earlier indicates, you can use a suitable sized spanner on the flats/raised ridges. With one hand pushing the spanner against the bb to stop the spanner slipping off, and the other turning it in the correct direction (drive side counter clockwise and non-drive side clockwise to remove for British thread). Since the lock rings aren't there, it shouldn't take too much effort.

 

[Deleted member 20519]

I'm still confused

I don't get what I've to do, sorry!

 

[HovR]

See the picture I posted above. See the bit the spanner is on? You have the spanner on the spindle, but it needs to be on the cup (the bit which actually screws in to the frame).

 

[Deleted member 20519]

Got it I managed to remove one of the cups and then the spindle but the other cup seems to be stuck tight.