I don't think I know what I'm doing on the bike.

[night cycler]

Working very hard - in particular, riding in a higher gear than would be ideal, using a lower cadence.

Thank you Alex321, another good explanation succinctly put

 

[night cycler]

You need to pedal faster - aiming for a cadence of 80 to 100. On 50/11 you should be able to exceed 30mph at max and comfortably hold 20mph without going to the 11 if you have a decent cadence. It sounds to me like you are grinding at a fairly low cadence.

How far and how quickly are you cycling?

Thank you, but why?

 

[boydj]

Thank you, but why?

By pushing a big gear with a slow cadence you are putting a lot of strain on your leg muscles and they will burn out very quickly, while not really stressing your heart and lungs.

It is more efficient, and makes better use of your aerobic fitness to turn over a much easier gear at a faster rate. This allows you to build up your endurance and travel further and faster as you get fitter.

 

[ColinJ]

Thank you, but why?

We've asked you a few times in different threads, but I'll try again... How fast are you actually going in your 50/11 gear?

Are you a bodybuilder with massive leg muscles? I ask because I once rode with a bodybuilder colleague who insisted on doing what you do - riding everywhere in a massive gear because he didn't like riding at a more conventional cadence. He was used to pushing incredibly hard with his leg muscles when doing squats etc. in the gym, but he really didn't like moving his legs quickly. I suggested to him that what he was doing wasn't very sensible and even if it didn't wreck his knees, it would probably wreck his bike. He laughed and ignored me. A few seconds later we came to a steep hill and he continued to mash his pedals round. And then his chain exploded!

 

[night cycler]

By pushing a big gear with a slow cadence you are putting a lot of strain on your leg muscles and they will burn out very quickly, while not really stressing your heart and lungs.

It is more efficient, and makes better use of your aerobic fitness to turn over a much easier gear at a faster rate. This allows you to build up your endurance and travel further and faster as you get fitter.

OK Boydj. I will try what you have advised.

 

[marzjennings]

Optimum cadence is dependent on power output, 100W might be optimum for an Olympic athlete, but that's not likely for mere mortals, and it still varies with workload: you need a higher cadence uphill than downhill.

I assume you meant a 100rpm as a proposed cadence as something easy for Olympic athlete's to achieve. Even though the charts you provided suggest slightly less than 80rpm for a optimum cadence for knocking out 300W.

And also no, uphill cadence is generally lower than down hill cadence. Mash up, spin down.

While there’s been an extensive amount of field and lab based research to determine proper cadence (85-95 rpm’s is a common prescription for flat ground riding), it truly depends on the individual. Climbing cadences can fluctuate across the spectrum of 65-90 rpm’s. That’s an incredibly large discrepancy, but some cyclists are much more efficient pushing heavier gears, while others prefer to spin the lighter.

 

[night cycler]

We've asked you a few times in different threads, but I'll try again... How fast are you actually going in your 50/11 gear?

Are you a bodybuilder with massive leg muscles? I ask because I once rode with a bodybuilder colleague who insisted on doing what you do - riding everywhere in a massive gear because he didn't like riding at a more conventional cadence. He was used to pushing incredibly hard with his leg muscles when doing squats etc. in the gym, but he really didn't like moving his legs quickly. I suggested to him that what he was doing wasn't very sensible and even if it didn't wreck his knees, it would probably wreck his bike. He laughed and ignored me. A few seconds later we came to a steep hill and he continued to mash his pedals round. And then his chain exploded!

No i am not a body builder.
The max speed I have cycled (50/11) was about 36 -38mph. I imagine the credit should go to gravity not to me?

These days I rarely use the 11th gear unless I am going down hill . I always used to ride in the small chainring. When in the small chainring I was needing to use the top 3 highest gears for almost all the ride. I was finding that peddling in the first 8 gears was too easy. Maybe I am fitter than you think, or maybe my legs are stronger than I realise - I don`t know?

If I had continued riding in the top three gears (9. 10 . 11) I would have worn them top three out and needed another cassette. So, to ensure even wear of all the gears of the cassette I ride in the large chainring one month and small chainring the next month.

This month I am in the large chain ring and will only need the middle few gears of the cassette, untill I am climbing a hill. Next month I will be riding in the small chainring, but that means I will need to be basically using the top 3 highest gears.

Hope I have answered your questions. If not let me know you what you would like to ask. I am always interested to receive advice/information from those who know more than me.

 

[Dogtrousers]

To add a slightly different opinion: the ideal cadence for you is what you do without thinking. Do what comes naturally and enjoy riding your bike.

There's no point trying to change the way you ride because someone on the internet reckons it would be more efficient. Efficiency gains (if any) are unlikely to be significant enough for you to notice. And if you're only riding for fun and exercise who cares anyway?

Leave it to your legs to decide. They know best. Don't over-think it.

 

[ColinJ]

There's no point trying to change the way you ride because someone on the internet reckons it would be more efficient. Efficiency gains (if any) are unlikely to be significant enough for you to notice. And if you're only riding for fun and exercise who cares anyway?

Leave it to your legs to decide. They know best. Don't over-think it.

He did ask for our opinions!

You could use the same argument for cyclists who ride bikes with their saddles stuck down on the seat tube! I saw one yesterday, his knees stuck way out, struggling to do a very modest speed along a level road. I strongly suspect that he was NOT letting his legs decide, he just didn't know what he was doing...

 

[Dogtrousers]

You could use the same argument for cyclists who ride bikes with their saddles stuck down on the seat tube!

I can and do!

Last time I saw someone with a too-low saddle he overtook me going up a hill. I did think of pompously saying to him "Well, actually, your seatpost is too low". But there was no way I could catch him to explain the error of his ways. (Ditto cross-chaining, turning the bike upside down and any number of "you're doing it wrong" things)

 

[Alex321]

To add a slightly different opinion: the ideal cadence for you is what you do without thinking. Do what comes naturally and enjoy riding your bike.

There's no point trying to change the way you ride because someone on the internet reckons it would be more efficient. Efficiency gains (if any) are unlikely to be significant enough for you to notice. And if you're only riding for fun and exercise who cares anyway?

Leave it to your legs to decide. They know best. Don't over-think it.

There is certainly some truth to this.

But in the early days, it is worth trying to push your cadence higher, otherwise you will alwys be working inefficiently. As I said above, when I first got back into cycling, 60rpm seemed like a fast cadence. But I knew I used to ride higher than that when I cycled previously, so I worked on getting it up a bit. And I now find I am most comfortable between 80 and 90, lower on a significant hill.

If I had carried on at around 60RPM, I don't think I would have got as much enjoyment from my cycling as I do, as it would have seemed like too much hard work.

 

[fossyant]

No i am not a body builder.
The max speed I have cycled (50/11) was about 36 -38mph. I imagine the credit should go to gravity not to me?

Definately not pedalling efficiently if you maxed out at 36-38. What top speed do you get on the flat pushing such a big gear ?

Grinding just isn't efficient on the flat/down hill. As said you'll run out of stamina/strength long before. You never see racing cyclists pedal so slowly, there is a reason. You give your body a better work out by pedalling quicker, or indeed, it's less strain and you'll cycle for much further, or faster.

Grinding a gear won't make it easy to ride for long, or ride quickly. You'll do neither.

 

[ColinJ]

Last time I saw someone with a too-low saddle he overtook me going up a hill. I did think of pompously saying to him "Well, actually, your seatpost is too low". But there was no way I could catch him to explain the error of his ways.

Hmm - this was my experience...

I cycled up to one rider whose saddle was virtually sat on the top tube. His knees were sticking way out and he was struggling to do 10 mph on a flat road on a wind-free day. I cheerfully gave him the 'correct' advice, along the lines of...

"Excuse me sir - your saddle is way too low. If you raised it by a few inches you would find riding the bike much easier and more comfortable!"

His response...?

"F*** off and mind you own f***ing business, you ****!!!"

Charming fellow! I left him behind, struggling, and destroying his knees.

I don't offer unsolicited advice now!

 

[roubaixtuesday]

These days I rarely use the 11th gear unless I am going down hill . I always used to ride in the small chainring. When in the small chainring I was needing to use the top 3 highest gears for almost all the ride. I was finding that peddling in the first 8 gears was too easy. Maybe I am fitter than you think, or maybe my legs are stronger than I realise - I don`t know?

If I had continued riding in the top three gears (9. 10 . 11) I would have worn them top three out and needed another cassette. So, to ensure even wear of all the gears of the cassette I ride in the large chainring one month and small chainring the next month.

This *sounds* like an entertaining wind up, but taking it at face value...

When in the small chainring I was needing to use the top 3 highest gears for almost all the ride. I was finding that peddling in the first 8 gears was too easy.

If it's "too easy" in the small chainring, consider changing to the larger one?

If I had continued riding in the top three gears (9. 10 . 11) I would have worn them top three out and needed another cassette. So, to ensure even wear of all the gears of the cassette I ride in the large chainring one month and small chainring the next month.

Radical idea: consider changing during rides. If it doesn't come naturally, simply use the small chainring on uphills and change to the large one at the summit.

 

[Dogtrousers]

Hmm - this was my experience...

I think I might have responded similarly. In my head at least. In reality I'd have just responded "right" or similar in a manner intended to convey that the conversation was at an end.