if you have mudguards.....

[fossyant]

Dreadful accident, sorry to hear this.

 

[Ajax Bay]

One thing to make sure of when fitting guards is to have the minimum possible clearance with the tyre at the bottom of the guard and as much as you can under the fork crown in order to prevent the chance of something being rolled up under the guard before jamming.

I'd reiterate this: minimum possible tyre clearance at the back. I wonder whether the (normally rubber material) scoop ends some models are sold with (see quoted image below - what are they for?) actually make it easier for bulky detritus to get into the gap and jam somewhere in the tyre/mudguard interface. I have a gap (no 'scoop') at the rear of about 3mm. Anything getting in there will pass right through and SKS ASR (automatic stay release) (which my mudguards have) will not be called to separate.
"The kind of deadly mudguard jams that are avoided by secu-clips are those whereby the stays would otherwise pull into the wheel and jam worse as the mudguard is collapsing and being dragged round by the wheel."
This is an excellent (perhaps authoriative) article on this explaining the failure mechanism and mitigation.
https://www.cyclinguk.org/article/technical-guide/mudguard-safety

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGwG-qItnC8

 

[C R]

I'd reiterate this: minimum possible tyre clearance at the back. I wonder whether the (normally rubber material) scoop ends some models are sold with (see quoted image below - what are they for?) actually make it easier for bulky detritus to get into the gap and jam somewhere in the tyre/mudguard interface. I have a gap (no 'scoop') at the rear of about 3mm. Anything getting in there will pass right through and SKS ASR (automatic stay release) (which my mudguards have) will not be called to separate.
"The kind of deadly mudguard jams that are avoided by secu-clips are those whereby the stays would otherwise pull into the wheel and jam worse as the mudguard is collapsing and being dragged round by the wheel."
This is an excellent (perhaps authoriative) article on this explaining the failure mechanism and mitigation.
https://www.cyclinguk.org/article/technical-guide/mudguard-safety
View attachment 475553

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGwG-qItnC8

I can see the point for things going between the tyre and the mudguard, but in the example of the video the stick is caught in the spokes, so even with the quick release, the stick will still stop the wheel at the forks, so nothing gained there, as far as I can see.

 

[Floating Bombus]

I can see the point for things going between the tyre and the mudguard, but in the example of the video the stick is caught in the spokes, so even with the quick release, the stick will still stop the wheel at the forks, so nothing gained there, as far as I can see.

I think that's because the video is badly made in photoshop.

Definitely worth having those clips, and worth having them front and rear.

 

[betty swollocks]

I'd reiterate this: minimum possible tyre clearance at the back. I wonder whether the (normally rubber material) scoop ends some models are sold with (see quoted image below - what are they for?) actually make it easier for bulky detritus to get into the gap and jam somewhere in the tyre/mudguard interface. I have a gap (no 'scoop') at the rear of about 3mm. Anything getting in there will pass right through and SKS ASR (automatic stay release) (which my mudguards have) will not be called to separate.
"The kind of deadly mudguard jams that are avoided by secu-clips are those whereby the stays would otherwise pull into the wheel and jam worse as the mudguard is collapsing and being dragged round by the wheel."
This is an excellent (perhaps authoriative) article on this explaining the failure mechanism and mitigation.
https://www.cyclinguk.org/article/technical-guide/mudguard-safety
View attachment 475553

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGwG-qItnC8

Thank you. I have sent that article to one of the daughters, who in turn, will be sending it to the coroner.

 

[Ajax Bay]

in the example of the video the stick is caught in the spokes, so even with the quick release, the stick will still stop the wheel at the forks, so nothing gained there, as far as I can see.

I thought that, to start with, but surmise that with the stays released the object has a better chance of falling out/away - as the video showed. And I think this would be the case if a rider got an object 'sucked' into the gap between the mudguard and the tyre.

Definitely worth having those clips, and worth having them front and rear.

I surmise that risk of this hazard happening at the rear is a little less (the front wheel has already pinged the stick or whatever away) but significantly because the associated resultant effect is much lower (locked up rear wheel at worst, and no endo) the benefits of using these clips on the rear is less important, and definitely not critical.
Any hazard that might stop your front wheel rolling as designed is one which needs mitigation -see my post on another current(ish) thread: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/stick-with-tubeless.250927/post-5675003
Maintain decent pressure in at least your front tyre, or go tubeless.

 

[MichaelW2]

I loom forward to their breakaway fork crowns.

Old steel forks used to bend before the frame did in a frontal collision. More modern, stiffer, stronger forks resist damage but the frame will bend before the forks.

 

[Aravis]

A very persuasive thread which I still managed to put to the back of my mind for a while - thank you @betty swollocks.

Today I fitted these. They cost me 89p each from a LBS, plus few pennies for slightly longer bolts: