Is this a silly idea or what? Cycling London to Paris on a battered 1985 Raleigh Record Sprint.

[mollipop]

I'm planning on cycling from London to Paris next year. Only thing with the ride is, I don't have an easy steed. It's a 1985 Raleigh Record Sprint - 12 gears (half of which are knackered, so doing hills is a right bugger!). But I have total faith that she can do it. I've already got myself some SPD pedals and shoes and I'm in the process of remolding the Brooks saddle that came with it, so I'm confident that my bum and my legs won't be too battered by the time I get to the Eiffel Tower.

I would like to change the gearing though. I went to my favourite bike shop the other day and they tell me that for the price it'll cost to install a new groupset, I may as well buy a new bike. I'm determined that I don't need to buy a whole new bike for this expedition - especially since my only job is a part-time minimum wage one.

I'm also pretty sure that I don't really need to change the whole groupset to get some easier hill climbing on the bike.

What do you all think?

Thanks very much in advance.

 

[the snail]

It depends on what gearing you have now. Probably the cheapest option would be to change the freewheel/cassette on the back, which is fairly cheap, but there will be a limit on how far you can lower the gearing without changing the rear derailleur.

 

[Zoiders]

Don't go through a mainstream LBS as they will say it's financially beyond repair (or not know how to repair it as may be the case with younger staff)

If you hit the cycle jumbles, ebay and a recycling project if you have one it's actually something you can get running rather cheaply. I bet the chain set in fact has many miles left in it. The cassette - you haven't mentioned if it's a screw on freewheel or a very early Cassette (yes they did make a 6 speed).

If it's a screw freewheel on it's going to be easy enough to replace and short of a new chain, cables and pads everything should be peachy.

Check the BB as well, strip it out and give it full clean, lube and new bearings.

As for going for easier gearing - yes you can fit a slightly larger toothed freewheel at the rear but only within the capacity of the mech, you can simply swap the rear mech for a cheap Shimano tourney MTB mech and that will give you a bit more capacity.

 

[mollipop]

It depends on what gearing you have now. Probably the cheapest option would be to change the freewheel/cassette on the back, which is fairly cheap, but there will be a limit on how far you can lower the gearing without changing the rear derailleur.

I'm definitely changing the cassette first after getting some advice from a local cyclist. The rear derailleur wouldn't be a problem either. Are these the two things that you consider to be most important for upgrading? I'm sorry I can't say very much about the gearing system I've got now. I'm only just learning, really. I can say though that it's a 12-speed. Six sprockets on the cassette, two chain rings. The derailleurs are Campagnolo, but no idea about model or anything like that.

 

[Zoiders]

I'm definitely changing the cassette first after getting some advice from a local cyclist. The rear derailleur wouldn't be a problem either. Are these the two things that you consider to be most important for upgrading? I'm sorry I can't say very much about the gearing system I've got now. I'm only just learning, really. I can say though that it's a 12-speed. Six sprockets on the cassette, two chain rings. The derailleurs are Campagnolo, but no idea about model or anything like that.

Have you got pictures of this bike and it's campag bits?

 

[willem]

I think this is a great plan. Sadly your bike shop is talking nonsense, however. Twelve speeds are all freewheel hubs rather than cassettes, and the freewheels can still be had, although with some difficulty. So all you may need is a new freewheel with a largish cog. If your current set up does not shift well, the freewheel and/or chain may be worn, but perhaps all it needs is proper adjustment. There is no need to buy a new groupset, or spend serious money, if the rest of the bike is more or less OK.

Success,
Willem

 

[tbtb]

Those bike shops don't understand the retro appeal of an 80s racer. I don't quite get it myself but I can see it's a big thing. I must admit I would like a bike with gold Space Shuttle logos on the seat tube.

If I were you I'd start by cleaning the chain. Look on youtube for How-To videos. Also, the gear cables run under the bottom bracket and may have been gathering grime at that point for 25 years. A quick scrub with a dishwashing brush under there can help the shifting, if you're lucky.

Re gear ratios, you might find that you don't need to alter the gears if you can just get a bit fitter.

Out of interest, are you going to dump the bike in the Seine or will you bring it back after le triumph?

 

[vernon]

Lowering the gearing is potentially expensive depending on how low you want to go and which ends of the drive train needs replacing.

It is possible to get six speed freewheels with up to 34 teeth here That's £38
You will probably have to replace the rear derailleur with an MTB based one too as a road based rear derailleur normally cant cope with large rear sprockets.
You can get a Shimano Acera rear mech for £18 here

 

[Chris-H]

Well whatever way you decide to go with your gearing i wish you great success with your ride,will the ride be for fun or is there a charity in mind to raise money for? You still have plenty of time to increase your fitness levels so your gearing might well suffice come next year.

 

[bigjim]

You have a great bike there. I did thousands of miles on mine including touring and now regret selling it. Very light and comfortable bike. Do what I did and fit a Megarange cassette and rear mech. Total about £20 off e-bay. Grease the wheels and bottom bracket. The wheels are good strong items if trued correctly. I often took the bike through some serious offroad stuff when I got lost without any problems. New brake blocks [only cheap] may be a good idea. That bike will soak up the miles, no problem.

 

[Zoiders]

Lowering the gearing is potentially expensive depending on how low you want to go and which ends of the drive train needs replacing.

It is possible to get six speed freewheels with up to 34 teeth here That's £38
You will probably have to replace the rear derailleur with an MTB based one too as a road based rear derailleur normally cant cope with large rear sprockets.
You can get a Shimano Acera rear mech for £18 here

SJS have to be possibly the most expensive option going for a refurb.

£38 for a freewheel?

I don't care how good quailty it is, you can still find new old stock bits for much less than that.

 

[bigjim]

Dear me. Where do you get these prices? Click on these links. £21 total. Job done.
cassette
rear mech

 

[TheDoctor]

Whereabouts are you? It's easier to suggest a decent local bike shop if we know where local is.
If it were me, I'd have a bash at getting the existing gears working first.
If that doesn't work out, get a wide(ish)-range block on the back, and a cheap compact chainset on the front.
The reason I say that is that after 25 years the chain, block and rings will have all worn together, so if you replace one, you'll need to replace them all. Costings from my LBS are - 14-28 Freewheel block - £14. Chainset + BB - £47. Chain - £8. Brake blocks - £7 and a complete set of cables is a fiver in Asda. CRC or Ebay will be cheaper, I expect.
£80 and you've got all the drivetrain replaced, plus better brakes.
Your existing dérailleurs will cope with that, and you'll get a significantly lower bottom gear than you've got now.
Calais - Paris is hardly mountainous, after all.

 

[bigjim]

The reason I say that is that after 25 years the chain, block and rings will have all worn together, so if you replace one, you'll need to replace them all.

I disagree. Depends on use. The chainrings will not wear at the same rate as the freewheel. New chain probably but I'd replace the freewheel and mech first and see how the bike rides. No use spending for the sake of it. My Sprint was 20 years old when I aquired it, and I never had to change the chainwheels, even after all that mileage

 

[TheDoctor]

Ahhh!! I see!! I thought the OP had been riding this for the last 25 years.
Yes, if it's spent 24 years sat in a shed, the chain probably isn't all that worn at all...
Right.
Chuck the Massive Block of Wall-Climbing Goodness on, an MTB rear mech and see what happens then