OP
OP
mikeymustard
Guru
I'd like to be more accurate with my pressures for research purposes. My pump always let's some out when I connect (and a little bit when i disconnect so I can only guesstimate. But OTOH I CBA!
I've just gone road tubeless - a lot of ups and downs but is it a steep learning curve?
- Thread starter mikeymustard
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- tubeless
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Racing roadkill
Guru
And don’t forget that if you do get a ‘gusher’ keep pedalling. You need the centripetal acceleration to keep the sealant where it’s needed. Too many people instinctively stop when they hear a hiss. If you stop, the sealant pools away from the hole ( unless it happens to be at the bottom of the tyre, as you stop ).
wonderloaf
Veteran
Ha ha, this is exactly what happened me yesterday. After I worked out the 'ticking/hissing' noise from the front was a puncture (well 2 actually) stopped to look and the sealant was weeping steadily from the holes. As soon as I started pedalling again the hissing soon stopped, and after a couple of miles I stopped again to take a look and they were sealed. Another lesson learned.
Jody
Stubborn git
How much sealant do you use per top up? A bottle every six months sounds excessive
Ming the Merciless
There is no mercy
- Location
- Inside my skull
The amount let out will be minimal and is generally just the bit in the hose of the track pump.
Pale Rider
Legendary Member
The tyres are 2.4" Schwalbe balloons, so probably twice the internal surface area of a roadie tyre.
I don't know how much the shop put in, but when I topped up there was no sealant sloshing around in the tyre.
The liquid constituent of the first lot had evaporated or whatever it is that happens to it.
The tyre was still holding pressure after a fashion so I could get away with no extra sealant, but having to top up the air every weekend was becoming tiresome.
lane
Veteran
I think my internal width is 20 and my tyres are 32. Would tend to agree that 20 internal is big for 25 tyres. Although they were still apparently hard to get on the rim so may be OK. However myself I would go for something wider because I think it justs works better with tubeless.
I bought some 'tubeless ready' or '2-way' campag rims and have had tubeless tyres on for a while. The rims have no holes for spokes and so are sealed on the inside. Apart from the valve hole of course. They weren't that difficult to get on but neither was it too easy.
They seated just fine with a hand pump at the time as well. I did have to top up with air a few times during the first couple of weeks but that soon settled down. Even so they do need a bit of air adding every couple of weeks. I used Stans sealant and it seems ok so far but I have no idea if it's done the job of sealing small punctures or not.
I recently fitted two new valves and after fitting them I definitely needed a blast from my compressor to get them to re-seat. Out on the road with just a small pump I would have been snookered for sure. Maybe I need to take a CO2 device with me.
The ride from my experience is definitely smoother but I have no idea if there is less rolling resistance or not.
I read that tubeless ready ie 2-way rims are designed differently where the tyre seats to conventional rims in that the shape of where the tyre sits keeps the tyre in place if you do lose air. Whereas on a clincher rim, in the event of a sudden loss of all pressure, there is little to stop the tyre from coming off. Only what I read so I can't say from personal experience.
They seated just fine with a hand pump at the time as well. I did have to top up with air a few times during the first couple of weeks but that soon settled down. Even so they do need a bit of air adding every couple of weeks. I used Stans sealant and it seems ok so far but I have no idea if it's done the job of sealing small punctures or not.
I recently fitted two new valves and after fitting them I definitely needed a blast from my compressor to get them to re-seat. Out on the road with just a small pump I would have been snookered for sure. Maybe I need to take a CO2 device with me.
The ride from my experience is definitely smoother but I have no idea if there is less rolling resistance or not.
I read that tubeless ready ie 2-way rims are designed differently where the tyre seats to conventional rims in that the shape of where the tyre sits keeps the tyre in place if you do lose air. Whereas on a clincher rim, in the event of a sudden loss of all pressure, there is little to stop the tyre from coming off. Only what I read so I can't say from personal experience.
A plastic syringe with a bit of rubber tube attached will enable you to insert the sealant via the valve.
lane
Veteran
Well it is not recommended to insert stans racing sealent via the valve because it contains larger particles than other sealents and so can clog the valve. I read a post from one person who had done it and no problems but your not supposed to.
That's why I had to replace the valves. It got harder and harder to get air in .
Edit: Mind you I did it again via the valve so......
lane
Veteran
What size tyre?
Can't hear it slosh about in my tyre but my hearing isn't the best - so I am told.
It's the only method I have used in 5+ years of running tubeless, no problems so far.
