Loose Shimano Rear Hub - Can’t Tighten

[Heltor Chasca]

I have a Shimano FH-RS500 rear hub with disc brakes. 10 speed cassette. Bearings still in good shape and runs smooth at the correct tension. I have not dismantled it and don’t want to.

However: It has become loose and in principle this is an easy fix. However the cone nuts (?) are recessed into the cassette rotor body on the drive side and again below the level of the disc rotor on the brake side.

This means I can’t get the cone spanners in to hold the nut while I tighten the locking nut.

Any ideas?

 

[CXRAndy]

I have a Shimano FH-RS500 rear hub with disc brakes. 10 speed cassette. Bearings still in good shape and runs smooth at the correct tension. I have not dismantled it and don’t want to.

However: It has become loose and in principle this is an easy fix. However the cone nuts (?) are recessed into the cassette rotor body on the drive side and again below the level of the disc rotor on the brake side.

This means I can’t get the cone spanners in to hold the nut while I tighten the locking nut.

Any ideas?

Photos will help immensely

 

[Heltor Chasca]

Photos will help immensely

Not brilliant under electric lights, but does this help?

 

[gbb]

Without personal knowledge of this setup, I'd attack it as follows.
Free hub side, forget about, I'd work on the other side. If you remove the 'spider' that's mounted on top of the disc, does that then expose the cone nuts

 

[Heltor Chasca]

Without personal knowledge of this setup, I'd attack it as follows.
Free hub side, forget about, I'd work on the other side. If you remove the 'spider' that's mounted on top of the disc, does that then expose the cone nuts

Possibly. I’ve found a way of sorting out the drive side. I am thinking you may be right and I’ll have to take the rotor disc off to expose the cone nut enough to get a purchase so I can tighten the lock nut.

Does anyone disagree before I take the rotor off?

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

Possibly. I’ve found a way of sorting out the drive side. I am thinking you may be right and I’ll have to take the rotor disc off to expose the cone nut enough to get a purchase so I can tighten the lock nut.

Does anyone disagree before I take the rotor off?

That is what I’ve done in the past. Go for it.

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Does anyone disagree before I take the rotor off?

I agree, on one of my bikes I serviced the hub by taking the rotors and the freehub off.
The wheel is still spinning.
Took me ages

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

Don’t be tempted to undo the five screws to get the rotor off, that looks like a center lock converter mount - so you’ll need the same splined tool used to remove the cassette.

Sorry if you already know that and I’m teaching you to suck eggs.

 

[CXRAndy]

Is this the same? it doesn't explain but an exploded picture can some times help

 

[Heltor Chasca]

Is this the same? it doesn't explain but an exploded picture can some times help View attachment 457058

Thanks for this. I guess that’s similar save for the nuts. I may have a chance at lunch tomorrow to remove the rotor disc and see if I can access the bolts then. That’s got to be it surely. Either that or special cone spanner’s that fit into a recess, but I can’t find reference to that anywhere. And as a couple of posters upthread have mentioned removing the rotor, I’ll try it. Thank you for this. It formulates it in my tiny mind.

 

[Heltor Chasca]

You have all been elevated to hero status.

Drive side sorted by loosening off brake side enough to expose the cone nut. Check

Then as suggested I removed the disc (centre lock so super easy) with it’s collar and this exposed the cone nut. Check

Happy as Larry now and safe in the knowledge I saved myself the expense of a new hub bearing kit or worse an entire new hub and wheel build.

Thanks all. You may have my full and profound gratitude.