'Making' a touring bike

[mickle]

Now with spangly chain. I test rode it earlier. Its very slightly too long in the reach. Easy fix.

 

[mickle]

Personally I'd want a tourer to take 38s unless travelling light.

You don't need braze ons.

You can use these:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/tubus-lm-1-mounting-set-for-forks-wo-eyelets/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360212548&kpid=5360212548&utm_source=google&utm_term&utm_campaign=UK_PLA_Accessories&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mckv|sdriEfelS_dc|mcrid|67090793102|mkw||mmt||mrd|5360212548uk|mslid||&mkwid=sdriEfelS_dc&pcrid=67090793102&prd=5360212548uk&pgrid=17507339822&ptaid=pla-296624071193

though not of course with a carbon fork

It's on 35s and will take a 38. I don't know why I wrote 32 upthread.

 

[Blue Hills]

A 90s MTB in steel is a very good starting point for this type of project. I reckon you could get around the world for way, way (and indeed way) less than Thorn et al would charge - like perhaps a fifth, maybe less.

Another rexponse to this so true post. I was in a nice local bike shop around a year ago on a bit of 90s steel and a guy in the shop said he'd recently had a mail/fb post from a mate somewhere in the middle of the stans on the very same bike. I also remember a young non cycling italian of my acquaintance (italians can be so "bella figura") breathlessly telling me about someone he knew who had been for a ride around europe and that he had "a really expensive bike". I well remember saying that you don't need an expensive one, just a good one.

There, really blown it, mods delete/shoot me now.

 

[Gravity Aided]

I'm doing similar with an old Trek 720, It's a hybrid but has all the braze-ons and geometry I prefer, but I also did a 26" tourer from an old Raleigh USA commuter bike from the 80's. Part aluminum(triangle) and part cro-moly(stays and forks). It was Shimano mix, but now it's all Deore.

 

[uphillstruggler]

I had a play with the ridgeback last night, took some 700 wheels from my daughters Ridgeback voyager (I think), they are shod with 42mm tyres. the upshot is that if I buy similar and clad them with 38mm tyres, the thing works. only issue now is getting brakes to fit. long drop callipers will fit (and work correctly with the brifters) but I am open to other ideas. the only other issue is the threaded stud on the callipers not being long enough to protrude through the back of the steerer tube/fork mounting holes but can be overcame by drilling out the rear hole to accept the tubular nut.

I really want to give the ridgeback another lease of life tbh - its served me well.

 

[raleighnut]

I had a play with the ridgeback last night, took some 700 wheels from my daughters Ridgeback voyager (I think), they are shod with 42mm tyres. the upshot is that if I buy similar and clad them with 38mm tyres, the thing works. only issue now is getting brakes to fit. long drop callipers will fit (and work correctly with the brifters) but I am open to other ideas. the only other issue is the threaded stud on the callipers not being long enough to protrude through the back of the steerer tube/fork mounting holes but can be overcame by drilling out the rear hole to accept the tubular nut.

I really want to give the ridgeback another lease of life tbh - its served me well.

If you have 'issues' with the rear brake bridge there is an easy 'work around to avoid drilling it for a sleeve nut, Just use a front caliper on the rear, the only difference is a longer bolt and that's long enough to use a standard Nylock nut. As for drilling the back of the fork that's easy, I've done it to a couple of my bikes.

 

[uphillstruggler]

If you have 'issues' with the rear brake bridge there is an easy 'work around to avoid drilling it for a sleeve nut, Just use a front caliper on the rear, the only difference is a longer bolt and that's long enough to use a standard Nylock nut. As for drilling the back of the fork that's easy, I've done it to a couple of my bikes.

the rear is fine, it has a standard brake bridge also which is handy but its the front, but as you say, drilling the rear of the steerer tube out isn't a big issue, I've also done it on one of my other bikes - I was hoping for other ideas from the oracles of cycling on here

 

[KneesUp]

I had a play with the ridgeback last night, took some 700 wheels from my daughters Ridgeback voyager (I think), they are shod with 42mm tyres. the upshot is that if I buy similar and clad them with 38mm tyres, the thing works. only issue now is getting brakes to fit. long drop callipers will fit (and work correctly with the brifters) but I am open to other ideas. the only other issue is the threaded stud on the callipers not being long enough to protrude through the back of the steerer tube/fork mounting holes but can be overcame by drilling out the rear hole to accept the tubular nut.

I really want to give the ridgeback another lease of life tbh - its served me well.

I'm not sure what the problem with fitting 26" wheels as intended is?

 

[bigjim]

I always wonder how these companies sell enough Expedition bikes to make it worthwhile? I mean how many people actually need an Expedition bike? Most people have jobs and of those retired, I'm sure not that many of them go off on solo Expeditions.

 

[uphillstruggler]

I'm not sure what the problem with fitting 26" wheels as intended is?

just wanting a slightly quicker bike to tour on.

I wont be getting rid of the old wheels, although the front is original, as they are great for canal/river/gravel and rough stuff riding

 

[uphillstruggler]

I always wonder how these companies sell enough Expedition bikes to make it worthwhile? I mean how many people actually need an Expedition bike? Most people have jobs and of those retired, I'm sure not that many of them go off on solo Expeditions.

I would imagine that commuters would be in the same market. you have a good point though - how many are sold every year?

 

[KneesUp]

just wanting a slightly quicker bike to tour on.

I wont be getting rid of the old wheels, although the front is original, as they are great for canal/river/gravel and rough stuff riding

I'm not clear on the physics of why you think bigger wheels are faster though? 26" are stronger, so you spend less time fiddling with spokes (in theory) so more time moving, and you can gear the bike any way you like.

 

[uphillstruggler]

I'm not clear on the physics of why you think bigger wheels are faster though? 26" are stronger, so you spend less time fiddling with spokes (in theory) so more time moving, and you can gear the bike any way you like.

just personal experience really. the 26 inch wheels need replacing soonish if im to do anything this year and im finding that decent priced reasonable wheels that aren't disc braked are harder to come by - it may be me but I also don't want to go the hand built route as they don't get used that often.

I hope that quells your curiosity

edit: and I like arsing about with my bikes

 

[uphillstruggler]

The best reason!

agreed.

 

[Bodhbh]

I always wonder how these companies sell enough Expedition bikes to make it worthwhile? I mean how many people actually need an Expedition bike? Most people have jobs and of those retired, I'm sure not that many of them go off on solo Expeditions.

Well forget the marketing term. It's a bike capable of carrying heavy loads and handling mixed terrain. You may have a requirement for such a thing even if you never even go on tour. Whether you have to blow 2 grand on it from Thorn/Tout Terrain/Surly/OBW/etc is another matter.