Making Models From Scratch

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Bazzer

Setting the controls for the heart of the sun.
Have you tried using the acrylic without a primer on a spare piece?
A few years back I did a relief carving for my daughter of the Staff of Hermes in an offcut of mahogany. - She worked in medicine at the time. I bought some acrylic from an art shop to help it stand out and primer wasn't used. It is still as I gave it to her.
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
so long as you clean the brushes they should be fine. PVA is water based so a bit of washing up liquid and water should be ideal.

That's on hold... The only useable PVA glue I have on hand is pink glitter glue. I'm not sure that's entirely suitable... :laugh:
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Have you tried using the acrylic without a primer on a spare piece?
A few years back I did a relief carving for my daughter of the Staff of Hermes in an offcut of mahogany. - She worked in medicine at the time. I bought some acrylic from an art shop to help it stand out and primer wasn't used. It is still as I gave it to her.

Yes - that was my starting point. The paint flakes off because the glue makes the surfaces non-porous. Hence the primer in a bid to solve the problem.

Acrylics need that porous surface in order to "stick" - which is why it works fine on wood, paper, fabric etc...
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
I took the opportunity of this week's good weather to be able to work outside and make a section that needed the use of a LOT of glue - including a fair bit of superglue. Namely the framework which the bonnet will sit on and to which the exhaust manifold attaches to. If I didn't have the exhaust to worry about, I could've done this much more simply, but as the exhaust is external and only attaches at two points (engine and a bracket on the right hand side of the driver's cab), I had no choice but to create a much more substantial structure.

First step was a comprehensive set of drawings (not shown) to get all the shapes and dimensions down pat. And as has been the case with this right from the get-go, I have to deal with various changes of profile as well. That led to the creation of a lot of individual pieces of card (a mix of cereal packet card and a piece from an old board-backed envelope) that had to be cut out, then slots cut into them before the whole thing just fits together. Fiddly, yet surprisingly simple and effective. And would've been fine as was if I didn't have to deal with that dratted exhaust...

NR1F7000_small.jpg


Next, I added the spacers (see above) along the sides, leaving spaces where the exhaust has to go, and I also cut away the section at the roll cage end to make the footwell of the cab / cockpit.

Then it was off outdoors to "fill the holes" as it were, in order to provide a solid section to which to attach the engine "block" and exhaust manifold, as well as add some reinforcing webs wherever needed. A whole lot of 14mm square sections of corrugated card were used for this, although about 2/3 way through I had to switch from superglue to epoxy, as even outside I was having problems - not so much with the fumes given off, but with the allergy side of things. Hey ho, what wouldn't I give for a decent fume cabinet...

Top view
NR1F7001_small.jpg


Bottom view
NR1F7002_small.jpg


Once this had all set rock hard, then it was the squeaky bum moment - cutting away the bit where the engine would be on the actual car. The bit where you pray things won't fall apart on you as soon as you stick the scissors in... But, mission accomplished, and this is what I ended up with:

NR1F7003_small.jpg


Theoretically, I could've left it like that, as under the bodywork, no one would be any the wiser. But in that state it offends my sensibilities, so, on with a top layer, which not only meets the whole aesthetics thing, but also adds to the structural integrity. Plus I tidied and reinforced the edge of the cut out as well. I used 2-part epoxy for this stage, as I needed the wiggle room to allow me to get all the pieces of card lined up correctly.

One thing I discovered is that partially-set epoxy is great for rolling into fine threads and used for filling in gaps, or rolling into balls and poking those into wiggly corners to reinforce them. Although I do still need to sand down the odd rough edge as a result...

NR1F7004_small.jpg


And then, onto the nose cone. On the actual car, this is a hollow section, which acts as a "scoop" for the radiator, and while I'm not modelling the radiator, this still has to look right. To make things harder, there's a change of profile in the shape as well, so I had to compromise and build the first part of it integral with the main body so that it wouldn't fall apart. Have to say, this bit was fiddly as I made the "skin" in one piece (well, two if I want to be pedantic, as it's made of two layers of card), creased it and then folded it to create the shape before finally gluing everything in place.

NR1F7009_small.jpg


Another piece I have to make at this stage is the air filter, as the actual bodywork fits around it - well, the sides, as the top sits proud of the bodywork. Which means it has to be stuck to this. It's ridiculous how such a small part can take such a long time to make. I started at midnight thinking "oh, this will take me 20 mins, I'll do this before I go to bed" and then, suddenly two hours later... :blush:

Didn't take any pics while I was making it, but it's essentially three oval rings of card glued together, plus an additional spacer on one long side, as while the bonnet slopes, the top of the filter sits horizontally. Hence the need to create the angle. The ribs of the filter are made with waxed upholstery twine, wrapped around the rings with the help of a needle just to make things easier, and then glued into place. Then top and bottom added, plus two small glass beads stuck to the top in lieu of the wing nuts that hold the filter closed. Sorry, not the best pic, but with a 2p piece for scale

NR1F7008_small.jpg


And then, everything in situ. I've not glued these pieces together yet, simply because I don't quite trust myself to not have made a booboo somewhere along the line. I'll do this once I get to making the bodywork proper. It's more a peace-of-mind thing really...

NR1F7010_small.jpg


And a quick preview of how it looks on the chassis. Just because, you know... ^_^

NR1F7012_small.jpg
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Well, I managed (I think) to solve the headache of the exhaust construction thanks to a moment of epiphany - namely curtain wire.

Bendy but boingy, I fed a length of stiff wire through the sections, and then whatever bend I put in would stay put. A piece of wood with four holes forms the engine "block" and the pipes are bonded into that. As I thought, the exhaust was a custom job, so I only had the photos of the car to go by. Hence a certain amount of guesstimating was involved.

The hardest part was making the 4-1 collector. Talk about a complicated shape. I ended up making an open-topped box to take the four manifold pipes, glueing a paper tube to the closed end, and building up the cone with layers of paper and glue. The last stage was carving the final shape with a very fine blade.In contrast, the main pipe and the silencer / back box were a pretty straightforward construct of wire, rolled paper and card.

NR1F7019_small.jpg


The last stage was fixing the collector to the manifold section (with epoxy) and then using wood filler to fill the gaps and bring the profile of the section to something approximating what's seen on the photos.

NR1F7020_small.jpg


The manifold and main pipe aren't bonded together yet, and the back box, while fixed in place by the sections of rolled paper either side, isn't stuck in place just yet either. That's because I need to get the angles of the main pipe and back box right once I've sorted the bodywork.

NR1F7021_small.jpg


In the final photo shows how the exhaust fits into the engine bay - and the logic behind the construction of the bonnet / bodywork support. I'm really happy with the result. Only thing I couldn't spray the exhaust with primer, as it was raining, and a rattle can isn't the best thing to use indoors...

NR1F7022_small.jpg


As an aside, I'm really impressed with the tube of Ronseal wood filler that I bought. It seems to stick very well to everything, even curtain wire, is easy to handle and shape, sets right hard and sands to a good finish.
 

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
Awesome! I love the fact you're using cereal boxes.

nothing like the quality of your build, but years ago a made a model FG van as a gift for a friend...

aus5_3.jpg

(image for illustrative purposes only)

...out of cornflakes boxes (she was a former new age traveller and lived in one).

Apart from painting the handles on the wrong side of the doors, it looked pretty good.
When people asked how I learned how to make such a thing, I always replied "Blue Peter". :smile:
 
Well, I managed (I think) to solve the headache of the exhaust construction thanks to a moment of epiphany - namely curtain wire.

Bendy but boingy, I fed a length of stiff wire through the sections, and then whatever bend I put in would stay put. A piece of wood with four holes forms the engine "block" and the pipes are bonded into that. As I thought, the exhaust was a custom job, so I only had the photos of the car to go by. Hence a certain amount of guesstimating was involved.

The hardest part was making the 4-1 collector. Talk about a complicated shape. I ended up making an open-topped box to take the four manifold pipes, glueing a paper tube to the closed end, and building up the cone with layers of paper and glue. The last stage was carving the final shape with a very fine blade.In contrast, the main pipe and the silencer / back box were a pretty straightforward construct of wire, rolled paper and card.

View attachment 583081

The last stage was fixing the collector to the manifold section (with epoxy) and then using wood filler to fill the gaps and bring the profile of the section to something approximating what's seen on the photos.

View attachment 583082

The manifold and main pipe aren't bonded together yet, and the back box, while fixed in place by the sections of rolled paper either side, isn't stuck in place just yet either. That's because I need to get the angles of the main pipe and back box right once I've sorted the bodywork.

View attachment 583083

In the final photo shows how the exhaust fits into the engine bay - and the logic behind the construction of the bonnet / bodywork support. I'm really happy with the result. Only thing I couldn't spray the exhaust with primer, as it was raining, and a rattle can isn't the best thing to use indoors...

View attachment 583084

As an aside, I'm really impressed with the tube of Ronseal wood filler that I bought. It seems to stick very well to everything, even curtain wire, is easy to handle and shape, sets right hard and sands to a good finish.

Beautiful work as ever @Reynard It's reminding me that I really could do a lot of my modelmaking using card, in fact it may have some advantages.
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Awesome! I love the fact you're using cereal boxes.

nothing like the quality of your build, but years ago a made a model FG van as a gift for a friend...

View attachment 583123
(image for illustrative purposes only)

...out of cornflakes boxes (she was a former new age traveller and lived in one).

Apart from painting the handles on the wrong side of the doors, it looked pretty good.
When people asked how I learned how to make such a thing, I always replied "Blue Peter". :smile:

Ah, that was a really cool thing to do :okay: I bet it looked good. :smile:

I'm also using some of mum's lace making card (that she sticks her patterns to). Shhhhhhhhhhh, she has no idea I've, shall we say, borrowed, some from her stash. :laugh: That's the light tan-coloured stuff, btw.

And yes, Blue Peter. :becool:
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Beautiful work as ever @Reynard It's reminding me that I really could do a lot of my modelmaking using card, in fact it may have some advantages.

Thanks :hugs:

Card, art paper and packaging is pretty well much what I have to hand - well, after the plywood / fibreboard idea got consigned to the dustbin of history anyway. A girl's got to be inventive in lockdown. :blush:

One thing I've learnt is that different types of card and paper definitely behave in different ways, and some types are better for particular tasks than others. Shouldn't come as a surprise really... :blush:
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
I think it likely depends on the actual type of plastic used.

The stuff I was trying to paint was a clear thermoplastic of some kind, so possibly a high density polythene. It cut and drilled easily and the large bit I was cutting from had a bit of give to it.

Suspect model kits are made out of thermoset, which are harder but more brittle, but easier to injection mould. And likely they have different surface properties.

Traditional model kits (airfix and such) are made of polysterene, which is thermoplastic, hence can be repeatedly remelted . Thermosetting plastics are things like bakelite which can't be remelted.
 
Awesome! I love the fact you're using cereal boxes.

nothing like the quality of your build, but years ago a made a model FG van as a gift for a friend...

View attachment 583123
(image for illustrative purposes only)

...out of cornflakes boxes (she was a former new age traveller and lived in one).

Apart from painting the handles on the wrong side of the doors, it looked pretty good.
When people asked how I learned how to make such a thing, I always replied "Blue Peter". :smile:

I meant to ask: what scale is that @MontyVeda?
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Traditional model kits (airfix and such) are made of polysterene, which is thermoplastic, hence can be repeatedly remelted . Thermosetting plastics are things like bakelite which can't be remelted.

Polystyrene, ok... :okay:

I've not been anywhere near a kit since I was about 10, so it was a guesstimate as to what they're actually made of. :blush:
 
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