Mudguards without chainstay bridge, but...

[Boopop]

I do have that thread on the back of the seat tube. It's a Giant Contend SL1 2021 ( which I got very lightly used for £690, which I'm rather pleased about)

So my question is, can I just buy any seemingly compatible mudguards and the seat tube eyelet will act as the chainstay mudguard bridge on another bike? Or will I have to drill an extra hole in the rear mudguard? I've already got the mudguard bridge for the seat stays. I'm thinking of getting the M:Part Primoplastic mudguards, if anyone who can advise me what size I should get for a bike with 32mm max tyre clearance, that'd be much appreciated. Cheers and Merry Xmas

 

[MichaelW2]

You need tough chromoplastic style guards
You have to drill them in the right place and use a stainless panhead machine screw. Allen heads protrude too much.
I would nibble down the end to fit between the stays ( tightly) , and make the tip a bit wider so it cant pop out.

 

[Drago]

And add a rubber gasket of some type between guard and sest tube to prevent rubbage.

 

[cyberknight]

do you have clearance for them ? from the photo it looks very tight.

 

[Dadam]

My solution for a bike with no chainstay bridge:

If you get SKS guards like the above Bluemels, the clip will slide to wherever you need it. You could cut off the angled bracket and drill the middle for a flat headed screw, then bolt the clip to the seat tube, so you don't need to drill through the guard.

 

[Elybazza61]

Drill were the hole is on the frame and just bolt on, as mentioned above a strong set of guards will be best.

Also these help to dampen any vibrations/rattling;

https://freshtripe.co.uk/honjo-leather-washers/

https://freshtripe.co.uk/velo-orange-leather-washers-for-mounting-mudguards/

 

[Boopop]

Oh there's space, they even sell their own mudguards which I'm a little tempted by, however the reviews are rather inconsistent. I'm still tempted by Portland Design Works, but they're expensive of course.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Using chromoplastics I have spent the best part of a year with a guard without a seatstay bridge clip (ie just supported by the stays and bolted to the chainstay bridge). (Finally) the guard broke a few days before Christmas at that chainstay bridge hole. I cut the guard down with strong scissors to above the fracture/crack (obv) shortening the guard about 30mm. Then using a little augur pushed a 3mm hole through about 15mm above the new end, smoothed it with a round file just enough to get the bolt through and with a washer both sides (to spread load, normal practice but like the leather washer idea if I had clearance) secured it. Tweaked the stays - and fitted a metal seatstay bridge clip (the plastic one (per @Dadam 's image) supplied had failed after a year and worn the guard there too). But the shift of position (new hole) meant the new bridge clip could secure on a perfect undamaged section of the guard.

will I have to drill an extra hole in the rear mudguard?

I would see if I can use the current hole - the effect will be to drop the rear end of the guard by ?40mm (those on your wheel in the wet will thank you). If that's OK, fine; otherwise do 'exactly' this. As @MichaelW2, use a panhead allenkey screw to maximise clearance - looks tight in OP image.

You need tough chromoplastic style guards
You have to drill them in the right place and use a stainless panhead machine screw. Allen heads protrude too much.

Drill baby drill!
https://www.freewheel.co.uk/m-part-primoplastics-mudguards-stainless-fittings-varmgprp
"what size I should get for a bike with 32mm max tyre clearance" The 38mm width option will plenty wide: you won't get >28s on there with guards. They may fit between the chainstays; or position so they don't have to.

 

[Dan Lotus]

Oh there's space, they even sell their own mudguards which I'm a little tempted by, however the reviews are rather inconsistent. I'm still tempted by Portland Design Works, but they're expensive of course.

PDW's are awesome, such good quality.

 

[Boopop]

So I got some chromoplastics:

That's with the guard resting on the tyre...hopefully the problem is obvious. Can I just dremel the top off to make it shorter? I can't see why not but I thought I'd ask.

 

[Dadam]

Don't see why not, as long as you've got enough meat left. Even as a U shape with an open top it should still work if clamped tight enough.

 

[Boopop]

Don't see why not, as long as you've got enough meat left. Even as a U shape with an open top it should still work if clamped tight enough.

My thoughts exactly. Thanks. Further votes of confidence welcome! Looks like I need to buy some more cutting blades for the dremel. Perhaps I'll install the rear mudguard first just in case it turns out it's incompatible for some reason, but a quick loose fitting seems fine. The rear guard holes even line up with the thread on the frame!

 

[Drago]

I've had this same problem. I clamped the top part ofnthe mounting tab with mole grips and bent it back by 90 degrees.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Can I just dremel the top off to make it shorter?

I always do this for the fork fastening. Junior hacksaw will do the job and then just file the rough edges. Be bold: cutting off too little means the guard is a couple of mm lower than it can be. I have tried @Drago 's bender routine but cutting the top off is neater and has more assurance. Rear guard fastening: washers both sides, if the clearance allows.

 

[MichaelW2]

I bent the top of the bracket to avoid interference.