My first Single Speed...

[l4dva]

... So I’ve bitten the built and brought a specialized langster, second hand off gum tree it was missing a front wheel but it was in pretty good shape and relatively cheap so I went for it! Pictures to come soon...

I've done two commutes on it so far and I’m surprised at how easy it is... after the first commute (10.5 miles each way) my legs/knees felt tired but I think that was down to the seat not being at the right height and the excessive amounts of spinning that I’m not used to normally (I try to grind through higher gears usually). Most of my commute is flat, have quite a few up/down hill sections for about half it but no major big hills. So I can spin comfortably at 18 mph is on flats probably at a cadence too high for my liking but it can be done, when I get up to 20+ mph I spin out and my legs cant keep up.

I really wasn’t expecting to be able to spin up to 18mph on a single speed bike its quite impressive, the hills actually seem easier because your already in a low gear. Not sure if all of this is just excitement of being on a new bike and im trying harder, but it feels easy to ride which I wasn’t expecting.

Do you reckon it’s worth changing my gearing? I have the standard set up on a 2010 langster, I think its 42 tooth at the front and 16 at the back.. I think. What would be best do you reckon bigger front or smaller back? I’m going to carry on as it is for a little while to see if I start to struggle with current gearing but because I spin out quite a lot I’m thinking I should change?!

Few other bits I’ve noticed, when I changed the pedals to SPD's one side crank had half the tread missing for the pedal to grip on to, I’ve been using it but the pedal has only got half the usual amount of thread to grip on to.... is this safe? If I’m changing gearing would it be worth changing the whole chain set because of this?

And finally brakes... the previous owner used it fixed so he took the back brake off. I've changed the pads on the front and the bike stops nicely now after i set that brake up properly but i want to reinstall the rear brake, he gave the original brakes and levers that he removed. The lever is pretty much un-usable though as it is missing the pin that holds the lever on to the housing, a part which cannot be replaced or purchased I’ve been told by an LBS. so I'm thinking of taking this opportunity to change the bars and the brake levers to bull horns as it currently feels like I need extra length in the stem, so I’m thinking bull horns will help stretch out my position a little. Dose anyone know what type of bull horns, clamp size would fit the langster and then the type of levers id need as well.... want to keep it as cheap as possible so any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks
L4dva!

 

[al-fresco]

I think you'll get a bit more used to pedalling at a higher cadence - I have a 2011 Langster and find the standard gearing comfortable up to 25mph. Above that it's a bit manic and I top out at about 30mph. If I lived in a flatter area I'd consider higher gearing but as I'm old and live on the Welsh border the 42/16 set up works for me. I find it gets me up a (short) 14% gradient and works well on the undulations of the North Shropshire plain.

 

[Boris Bajic]

...




Few other bits I’ve noticed, when I changed the pedals to SPD's one side crank had half the tread missing for the pedal to grip on to, I’ve been using it but the pedal has only got half the usual amount of thread to grip on to.... is this safe? If I’m changing gearing would it be worth changing the whole chain set because of this?

And finally brakes... the previous owner used it fixed so he took the back brake off. I've changed the pads on the front and the bike stops nicely now after i set that brake up properly but i want to reinstall the rear brake, he gave the original brakes and levers that he removed. The lever is pretty much un-usable though as it is missing the pin that holds the lever on to the housing, a part which cannot be replaced or purchased I’ve been told by an LBS. so I'm thinking of taking this opportunity to change the bars and the brake levers to bull horns as it currently feels like I need extra length in the stem, so I’m thinking bull horns will help stretch out my position a little. Dose anyone know what type of bull horns, clamp size would fit the langster and then the type of levers id need as well.... want to keep it as cheap as possible so any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks
L4dva!

Well done for giving it a go!

On gearing, just see how it develops. I wouldn't make any hasty decisions about gearing until you're used to what you have.

On the worn thread in the crank arm.... I find that worrying. I'm not sure how it happened, other than someone perhaps getting impatient and cross-threading a pedal with extreme force and aggression. Technically, it is not safe like that. There isn't much thread in there to start with and losing half of it isn't the best place to start. There is also the chance that a mashed female thread will partly mash the thread on the spindle you screw into it. Most people would leave it and hope for the best... but it's not a good idea to advise that on a forum.

Brakes? I run front and rear brakes on my fixed-gear. Many don't run a rear on fixed. I would certainly run a rear on singlespeed. I'm assuming the vendor gave you the brake parts. Stick them back on. If you weren't given them you were dealing with a naughty chappie.

Bull horns? There is so much choice out there... See what you want and buy it.

I hope this helps.

 

[fossyant]

PS go fixed !

 

[l4dva]

Thanks for the replies!

I think I should get the cranks changed, it dosen't seem ideal having half the tread missing. I'll wait a week or two see how i get on with the gearing, if I still feel the need to change i'll just go for the next size up chainring. Will this require a new chain as well?? the chain at the moment is quite a snug fit in terms of getting the wheel on and off.

The sellor did provide the brake/lever, but the lever is unusable due to one of the pins being missing. The actual brakes seem fine, bit of a clean up/re grease and new pads so do the trick. Im thinking getting a new set of levers the kind that fit bull horns and then changing the bars to bull horns at the same time.

I've searched around and it looks like bull horns in 31.8 clamp size are a bit difficult to get a hold of (the cheap ones anyways). it looks like its possible to get a shim to convert a thiner bar to fit my 31.8 stem, any one here tired this??

Thanks

 

[l4dva]

PS go fixed !

I gave that a quick go when I got it, felt very weird.... I think that would take some getting used to.

Trying to dodge traffic in fixed seems like a difficult thing to do, but loads of people do it so must be possible. Maybe i should give it another go...

 

[HLaB]

I bought a cheap heavy SS when I was down in Essex for a few months and I think I've seen the benefit of it when it has come to the hills round here. I'm starting a job down south again, in the even flatter Peterborough so I might up its gearing; still think I prefer free to fix though. With a 44-18 I'm seriously under geared; one of the riders on this course on Sunday had a 47-17 fixie and I cant recall him ever looking like he was in difficulty; my fix is 44-16, so thats a little higher, hmmm.

 

[Pennine-Paul]

Once you get used to fixed it's much easier in traffic I find
You can pick up a stem off ebay for peanuts usually
my mates selling some bits at the moment

http://www.lfgss.com/thread88084.html

 

[l4dva]

I bought a cheap heavy SS when I was down in Essex for a few months and I think I've seen the benefit of it when it has come to the hills round here. I'm starting a job down south again, in the even flatter Peterborough so I might up its gearing; still think I prefer free to fix though. With a 44-18 I'm seriously under geared; one of the riders on this course on Sunday had a 47-17 fixie and I cant recall him ever looking like he was in difficulty; my fix is 44-16, so thats a little higher, hmmm.

Damn that’s a lot of data on your link. Those garmin's are pretty cool! 62 miles fixed... that’s insane and at 19.7mph average.. Very impressive work mate!

Another reason for me trying out single speed was to get fitter/stronger. I do triathlons (complete armature still) but I’m really getting into it now and determined to beat my PB's and get faster and faster. I was hoping that riding single speed or fixed when I’ve build up the nerve to do it in traffic would be harder than normal geared bikes and therefore strengthen my legs... and it also provides a cheaper alternative to commute to work on that I don’t need to worry about leaving locked outside the gym or supermarket etc.

Now after riding it I’m not sure if spinning high cadence and little resistance will help me achieve that? Don’t get me wrong I’m enjoying it and ill def be keeping both bikes but just wondering what the effects will be? Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[HLaB]

Now after riding it I’m not sure if spinning high cadence and little resistance will help me achieve that? Don’t get me wrong I’m enjoying it and ill def be keeping both bikes but just wondering what the effects will be? Any thoughts?

Thanks

Going by some of the good riders who ride SS I'd say spinning at a high cadence is definitely good. In the short period I've had mine I'd agree with that too, its kept me in shape when I was down south. Now I've put clipless on it I think it'll be too easy in Peterborough so I might up the gearing slightly. Plus its also more fun

 

[colly]

I've been riding fixed for all of three months. Loving every minute of it.
It's a bit hilly round here but nothing extreme and I set it up originally on 44 x 18 which is sort of spinney but it's low enough to get me up hills. So far I've found I can manage any hill without too much bother. It's slower but surprisingly manageable. I can push along on the flat comfortably at 18 or 19mph.
I'm going to fit a 16 or 17 sprocket (as soon as I get hold of a lockring remover) just to see what difference it makes.
Downhill is entertaining to say the least.

 

[mangid]

I find riding fixed definitely helps my road bike riding. You're more used to having to 'power' thru small inclines rather than changing down, and consequently I find it easier to keep my speed up.

I ride 48x18, only ever had to concede once and that was on a 1 in 5. Took it to Yosemite with me and could, with some effort, do several miles of 1 in 8.

 

[biggs682]

being riding fixed for a while now and i find it easier and more fun , just sent frame and a pile of bits down to lbs for 2 nd fixie

 

[l4dva]

Wow, sounds like fixed is the way to go! I may have to give that another go soon.

So I did three days commuting on single speed this week and one on my normal road bike. By firday my legs where getting tired as they do.. I think the gearing towards the end of the week with tired legs suited me fine. I guess I'll stick with what I have maybe just change the cranks because of the mising thread issue.

While we are on the cranks... I notice the crank length is 170 on the langster, my roadie is 172.5, what difference will that 5mm (total left& right) difference make? When I look for new cranks should I stick with 172.5 same as my current bike?

Thanks

 

[Boris Bajic]

Do try fixed-gear. It feels very strange at first, but is wonderful and intoxicating as you get accustomed to it. Not everyone likes it, but if you do you won't look back.

I ride geared too, but I still love the smoothness, the weird feel and the occasional sheer rush of riding fixed.

On crank length, it depends on the length of your legs. There are tables to tell you the best crank length for your inside leg. It's not an absolute thing.. some go longer, some shorter.

I use 170 on both fixed and geared, but longer on an MTB. That isn't by design, it just happens to be what was on them....

Many people prefer relatively shorter cranks on fixed. Standard crank lengths go down to 165mm. Those few millimetres can make a big difference to feel, but if you're OK with it I wouldn't be too bothered.