My Raleigh Bike. The Start.

[roadrash]

must be a box spanner

 

[Boon 51]

Needs a bigger box.

That's just what I thought it's big enough for a nice size pizza.

 

[Boon 51]

I'm just waiting for my new hood/levers to arrive so they can be fitted.

On the bike when I got it the front brake had a nice loop from lever to brake but the rear brake cable ran under the bar tape which I thought was a bit odd.
So could I re route the rear brake cable another way?

 

[mikeymustard]

I'm just waiting for my new hood/levers to arrive so they can be fitted.

On the bike when I got it the front brake had a nice loop from lever to brake but the rear brake cable ran under the bar tape which I thought was a bit odd.
So could I re route the rear brake cable another way?

if you got the same or similar levers to what was on there they're aero levers which go under the bar tape

 

[Boon 51]

if you got the same or similar levers to what was on there they're aero levers which go under the bar tape

They are Shimano Exage Action's so not sure if they are the same?

 

[mikeymustard]

if they're A-351 I think those are aero, pretty sure that was what was on my 89 Raleigh Elan originally

 

[carpenter]

Hard to tell from the photograph (although I am sure that they are Action or Motion levers) - the right hand/rear lever looks like the cable exits from the side rather than from underneath, has the previous owner cut a hole/made a slit in the rubber hood to allow this? Perhaps they didn't know how the fit an aero cable when renewing?

 

[Boon 51]

Hard to tell from the photograph (although I am sure that they are Action or Motion levers) - the right hand/rear lever looks like the cable exits from the side rather than from underneath, has the previous owner cut a hole/made a slit in the rubber hood to allow this? Perhaps they didn't know how the fit an aero cable when renewing?

Now you said that I think there was a cut in the hood but didn't give it much thought at the time. These new lever i bought because it was a cheap way of getting the hoods. I think in time I might get some newer type levers anyway as they are just brake levers.
I am one of those people that get a bit ratty if something is not just right on my bike?

 

[biggs682]

I am one of those people that get a bit ratty if something is not just right on my bike?

You need to chill a bit when dealing with older bikes in my honest opinion just settle for things working

 

[Boon 51]

You need to chill a bit when dealing with older bikes in my honest opinion just settle for things working

Your asking a lot here biggs.

 

[biggs682]

Your asking a lot here biggs.

You can do it just have faith

 

[Boon 51]

You can do it just have faith

I can't promise anything but i'll try,

 

[raleighnut]

For headsets you need several different sizes on different bikes, this one for instance.



gives 4 different sizes in one spanner. I use something similar and a 'Bahco' big adjustable for the top nut.

EDIT - if you click on the picture it's a linky.

 

[carpenter]

Those Shimano levers are absolutely fine - bit of a classic imo, and this chap's

http://cyclescribe.blogspot.com/2014/03/great-moments-in-obscure-cheap-parts.html

If something is not quite right with these levers, it's either you or the previous owner Just remember; new isn't necessarily better - that's why you have been tempted down the steel frame route!

 

[rogerzilla]

Raleigh forks were 26tpi until sometime in the 1980s. Generally the better bikes moved over to 24tpi ISO sizing first. Check before buying a new headset. If you have a 26tpi fork the best course of action is to find a suitable replacement 24tpi or even a 1" threadless fork (basically anything but Raleigh). Raleigh 26tpi headsets are no longer made. I got one NOS from the USA and it was not cheap. You can get away with just the top half, which wears very slowly, and use something else at the bottom; Raleigh headset standards are basically the same as JIS but with the finer thread, and JIS headsets are easy to find (Tange Passage).