My Raleigh Bike. The Start.

[carpenter]

Just had a thought about the levers.
Given that the hoods will be a few years old now, don't be tempted to pull hoods off your recent purchase and put on your bike's current ones, they may not take too well to being stretched too much.

 

[Boon 51]

Raleigh forks were 26tpi until sometime in the 1980s. Generally the better bikes moved over to 24tpi ISO sizing first. Check before buying a new headset. If you have a 26tpi fork the best course of action is to find a suitable replacement 24tpi or even a 1" threadless fork (basically anything but Raleigh). Raleigh 26tpi headsets are no longer made. I got one NOS from the USA and it was not cheap. You can get away with just the top half, which wears very slowly, and use something else at the bottom; Raleigh headset standards are basically the same as JIS but with the finer thread, and JIS headsets are easy to find (Tange Passage).

I did buy a Tange 1 inch threaded headrace just in case a re grease didn't work so at worse is I have a spare.

 

[Boon 51]

Just had a thought about the levers.
Given that the hoods will be a few years old now, don't be tempted to pull hoods off your recent purchase and put on your bike's current ones, they may not take too well to being stretched too much.

The levers I have bought have nice black hoods because the ones on the new bike I've Just got were so bad I had to put then in a dustbin bag before the dustman saw them?

 

[mikeymustard]

Now you said that I think there was a cut in the hood but didn't give it much thought at the time. These new lever i bought because it was a cheap way of getting the hoods. I think in time I might get some newer type levers anyway as they are just brake levers.
I am one of those people that get a bit ratty if something is not just right on my bike?

yes you're right - on the originals, however the cables ended up they should've been under the tape.
As far as getting newer levers is concerned, unless you upgrade to brake shifters, a lever is pretty much just a lever, and your exage are at least period correct.
Brake calipers on the other hand, now that's a different kettle of fish entirely!

Edit: or should I say "can of worms"?

 

[Boon 51]

yes you're right - on the originals, however the cables ended up they should've been under the tape.
As far as getting newer levers is concerned, unless you upgrade to brake shifters, a lever is pretty much just a lever, and your exage are at least period correct.
Brake calipers on the other hand, now that's a different kettle of fish entirely!

Edit: or should I say "can of worms"?

To be honest all I want is to have the cables in those nice loops at the front I think that's so cool, not bothered if its right or not.

 

[randynewmanscat]

The more i look at that it looks like one i had on a 90's Giant Peleton a while back that had a push over trim part that popped up to reveal the top nut underneath

Well spotted detective Biggs!

 

[randynewmanscat]

For headsets you need several different sizes on different bikes, this one for instance.

View attachment 447643

gives 4 different sizes in one spanner. I use something similar and a 'Bahco' big adjustable for the top nut.

EDIT - if you click on the picture it's a linky.

That is neat! Never seen a stepped headset spanner before, I ended up buying two different sizes years ago and even the obligatory Shimano proprietary one to fit the 1980's 600Ex headsets.

 

[carpenter]

Oh dear - slippery slope warning

Just bought aero levers, now decided you like nice cable loops at front of bike, next step buy some non aero levers, fast forward a month or two:

Bike finished, aero levers in "spare parts" corner of your (rather nice) workspace, little demon in you keeps nagging away about how good they would look on a very pretty Italian frame that you have seen for sale and wouldn't it be nice to have an example of a different style of bike.............

 

[Boon 51]

Oh dear - slippery slope warning

Just bought aero levers, now decided you like nice cable loops at front of bike, next step buy some non aero levers, fast forward a month or two:

Bike finished, aero levers in "spare parts" corner of your (rather nice) workspace, little demon in you keeps nagging away about how good they would look on a very pretty Italian frame that you have seen for sale and wouldn't it be nice to have an example of a different style of bike.............

I have just fitted the new levers and there is room enough to put the outer brake cable in the top. I will show a photo tomorrow so I think I might be able to have cable loops. I await your comments tomorrow on what you reckon?
PS.. I think you have me summed up perfectly.

 

[mikeymustard]

I have just fitted the new levers and there is room enough to put the outer brake cable in the top. I will show a photo tomorrow so I think I might be able to have cable loops. I await your comments tomorrow on what you reckon?
PS.. I think you have me summed up perfectly.

lol

 

[12boy]

I would suggest as you reassemble the bike that you use either grease or antiseize compound on the bolts and components. This will make it so much easier to take apart later. Do not grease the bottom bracket spindles, though. Definitely apply some to the inside of the head tube and seat post tube and bottom bracket threads. If any of these get stuck, corroded or rusted in you will use some salty language as you try to get them out. When rebuilding loose bearings and bearing cage components use new bearing cages and ball bearings, as they don't cost much. Keep a magnet handy to control the loose balls as they can go all over. I have a syringe with grease inside that is ideal for applying small amounts of grease without getting your fingers greasy. Welcome to the glorious obsession of rebuilding/restoring old machines! A properly lubed and tuned old bike, especially one you did yourself, is such a joy to ride.

 

[Boon 51]

I would suggest as you reassemble the bike that you use either grease or antiseize compound on the bolts and components. This will make it so much easier to take apart later. Do not grease the bottom bracket spindles, though. Definitely apply some to the inside of the head tube and seat post tube and bottom bracket threads. If any of these get stuck, corroded or rusted in you will use some salty language as you try to get them out. When rebuilding loose bearings and bearing cage components use new bearing cages and ball bearings, as they don't cost much. Keep a magnet handy to control the loose balls as they can go all over. I have a syringe with grease inside that is ideal for applying small amounts of grease without getting your fingers greasy. Welcome to the glorious obsession of rebuilding/restoring old machines! A properly lubed and tuned old bike, especially one you did yourself, is such a joy to ride.

My wife asked if there was anything wrong as I was so happy and I said its doing the bikes up.. cheecky mo.

 

[Boon 51]

I will put the chain on today but I have three options.
1/ Try and put the link in which might not work anyway?
2/ Put a speed link in which would take a few seconds. £3.00
3/ Buy a new chain for £7.00.
What would you do?

 

[EltonFrog]

I will put the chain on today but I have three options.
1/ Try and put the link in which might not work anyway?
2/ Put a speed link in which would take a few seconds. £3.00
3/ But a new chain for £7.00.
What would you do?

All three in that order, if the first one works, job done.

 

[raleighnut]

I'd try a new un, but keep the old chain just in case the rear block is too worn to accept a new chain.