New wheels question

[Tim Hall]

I have to confess, I don't understand that.

Why would a 28c tyre, of a given brand, offer less rolling resistance than a 23c version of the same tyre at the same pressure? I would have thought the narrow tyre would produce less resistance due to it having less surface area in contact with the road, and therefore less friction?

No doubt a clever person will be along in a second with all kinds of complex mathematical formulae to explain this

Tyres at the same pressure will have the same surface area in contact with the road. The shape of the contact patch is likely to be different (long and thin vs short and wide) but the area will be the same.

 

[tincaman]

This is a good one to read:
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/08/08/the-missing-piece-suspension-losses/
My road bike now runs 30mm Schwalbe S-One tyres, my drop bar commute 40mm G-One's. My times on my typical routes have not changed at all, but I get a much better ride.

 

[Cycleops]

Those G One tyres sound interesting @tincaman Might try some. Are you running them tubeless? If so what's involved?

 

[tincaman]

Those G One tyres sound interesting @tincaman Might try some. Are you running them tubeless? If so what's involved?

Yes tubeless, Have a look on Youtube on how to do it, but ideally you need tubeless rim, tubeless tape, tubeless ready tyres, valves, sealant and some way to deliver a shot of air, like CO2 or a compressor. But be warned, the cost does add up.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2DLr-besFo

 

[Will Spin]

You need either, tubeless rim or tubeless tape, but not both. I've done about 1700 miles on my 28mm hutchinsons tubeless in all weathers. It's been a big improvement on tubed as far as puncture related incidents are concerned.

 

[Cycleops]

I can understand how ride would be improved but puncture resistance? I thought that's down to the carcass and it's built in features. Or is it because it's more pliable. What if you do have a puncture?

 

[si_c]

I can understand how ride would be improved but puncture resistance? I thought that's down to the carcass and it's built in features. Or is it because it's more pliable. What if you do have a puncture?

Latex sealant instead of the tube.

 

[Milzy]

To be frank, at your level of understanding and without knowing what you are trying to achieve through the 'upgrade' I would suggest that as long as your current wheels are working you should stick with them. It is doubtful you will notice much, if any, difference in feel. I certainly don't, but I judge my wheels by reliability and longevity. On the other hand if you have money to waste and want some bling then go for it.....

But he may have a Dolmite 6 like me and the hubs stop really quick, the wheels are rubbish. Interested in this thread.

 

[Cuchilo]

I can understand how ride would be improved but puncture resistance? I thought that's down to the carcass and it's built in features. Or is it because it's more pliable. What if you do have a puncture?

Put a tube in . Bonkers isn't it

 

[Will Spin]

Latex sealant instead of the tube.

This....it's worked...so far. Haven't had to stop to fix a puncture whilst out for a ride.

 

[Sea of vapours]

18,000km on Hutchinson Sector 28 and no need to stop for any punctures so far. The sealant does a very good job. If it fails you're no worse off than if you had tubes and you can just put one in. (Messy, admittedly.)

You do need tubeless tape on most tubeless ready wheels. I believe the only case where you don't is on UST rims, where the spokes do not protrude into the well of the rim (or not into a visible well anyway) so a seal is required around the spoke. Most tubless rims are of the 'need tape' sort at the moment so far as I've been able to tell.

 

[Will Spin]

18,000km on Hutchinson Sector 28 and no need to stop for any punctures so far. The sealant does a very good job. If it fails you're no worse off than if you had tubes and you can just put one in. (Messy, admittedly.)

You do need tubeless tape on most tubeless ready wheels. I believe the only case where you don't is on UST rims, where the spokes do not protrude into the well of the rim (or not into a visible well anyway) so a seal is required around the spoke. Most tubless rims are of the 'need tape' sort at the moment so far as I've been able to tell.

Ok, I'm just going on my limited experience which is with Shimano Ultegra wheels, which don't need tape.

 

[gbb]

Radial Cycles, GP4000s ii , tad under £50 a pair. I got them from Radials and look for a discount code, I got mine cheaper than I could get Gators. Delivery was a bit slow though.

Now I have the GP4000S on, I can't say I feel any difference as opposed to Gators.

 

[Cuchilo]

If you dont mind gunk in the tubes then go for tubs , they are a much nicer ride and rather hard to puncture with the gunk in them .

 

[al-fresco]

I can understand how ride would be improved but puncture resistance? I thought that's down to the carcass and it's built in features. Or is it because it's more pliable. What if you do have a puncture?

Usually don't even know that you've had a puncture. About once a year I remove the tyres to check if the sealant requires replenishing and to extract any thorns from the casing. Last October I removed 6 thorns. I do carry a spare tube just in case I encounter a puncture that won't seal but it hasn't been needed yet. If you do hear air escaping (like the time I pulled out a drawing pin out of my front tyre) just spin the wheel and the sealant quickly does its job.