Orbea Gain

[Capital_Singer]

I've just bought an M30 It should be delivered next week. I've tried searching but can't seem to find an answer to my questions,

1-Is it possible to put a Garmin 520 on the front of it instead of the Pulsar One and be able to see a battery percentage and alter the assist levels?
or does the pulsar one have GPS for putting my rides on strava?

2-Whats required to set the tyres up tubeless? I got another Orbea (Wild FS) earlier this year and it had tubeless rim tape already applied and even came with the valves

3-are the disc rotors 6 bolt or centrelock?

 

[richtea]

Re: Q2, the M30 spec says:
https://www.orbea.com/gb-en/ebikes/road/gain/cat/gain-m30
FULCRUM E-Racing 900 wheels as standard

https://www.fulcrumwheels.com/en/support/ruote-oem-en/e-racing-900
Fulcrum says:
'2-Way Fit Ready (for clincher and tubeless ready)'

So in theory you just need tubeless tyres.
Again the M30 spec says:
- Schwalbe ONE 30-622, 700x30C, Performance Line RaceGuard, TLE, ADDIX

Which look like they're tubeless, so you may have to do absolutely nothing:
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/road-reader/schwalbe-one-tle

Sweet!

 

[Capital_Singer]

Which look like they're tubeless, so you may have to do absolutely nothing:

what I was looking for is a recent 2021 purchaser to confirm if I needed to buy valves & rim tape, or if they come with the bike? and I doubt would ever have to do nothing, they aren't selling bikes already set up tubeless with sealant in are they? they always used to come tubed and "ready to convert" somehow due to the fact that they might sit in a warehouse or a shop floor for a year and the sealent would dry out, but it wouldn't surprise me if they just sold them tubeless now as nothing sits in a warehouse for any time at all it's almost instantly built and then sold out. how times have changed!

nobody know about the Garmin pairing? can't seem to find much about it despite all my searching, I have found this, is it what you need:
https://www.orbea.com/gb-en/gear/accessories/cat/dongle-ant
it'll be here soon I can't wait

 

[Capital_Singer]

I'm really keen to find out how it will ride, and how powerful it is. I have ridden on the road with a road bike a fair bit but would typically average above 16mph, so is it just going to kick in on the hills?
I have a full fat Wild FS already thats great for mountain biking but I've come across a few road bikes on the way to the trails and they just leave me for dead, and I've noticed flat sections of the trail I used to ride at above 16mph are now ridden at 16mph maximum, anything above that is just a slog!

 

[Scaleyback]

what I was looking for is a recent 2021 purchaser to confirm if I needed to buy valves & rim tape, or if they come with the bike? and I doubt would ever have to do nothing, they aren't selling bikes already set up tubeless with sealant in are they? they always used to come tubed and "ready to convert" somehow due to the fact that they might sit in a warehouse or a shop floor for a year and the sealent would dry out, but it wouldn't sur

My D30 came "tubeless ready" and I did attempt to go down that path, it was over 2 years ago so I hope my memory is not failing me when I say you will certainly need valves but I cannot remember if it had rim tape ? My best guess would be you will have to get valves and rim tape.
I gave up on the tubeless 'thing' what a load of 'faff' I struggled to pump them up, couldn't get them to seal on the rims and had sealant all over the place. I am prepared to accept 'it was me' ! but I have read similar more than once elsewhere.
I am of the impression that the benefits of tubeless are more for mountain bike/offroad riders. Tubeless allows them to ride with softer/less air in the tyres and largely removes the problem of 'pinch punctures'
In 2 1/2 years I have never had a flat tyre. I put sealant in my inner tubes, (700 x 35 tyres) Schwalbe tubes (presta valves) have removable centre cores.
I use 'Stans No Tube sealant' and a plastic injector syringe to get the recommended amount of sealant into the tube (Search " YouHuGu 100ml Large Big Plastic Hydroponics Nutrient Measuring Syringe " on Amazon.
I renew the sealant every 6 months plus the valve centre core, a few £'s for several cores and a core remover. Yes a little 'faff' but so is changing a tube/repairing a puncture at the side of the road.

 

[richtea]

https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/comment/is-the-tubeless-system-flawed-for-narrower-tyres-497374

Snippet:
Latex-based sealants will typically last around three months – but in hot conditions this can be as little as just one – before needing to be topped up again. This extra layer of maintenance – combined with the issues dried up lumps of latex can cause with the balance of your wheels at high speeds – means that tubeless on the road can end up just not being worth the trouble.

Call me crazy, but it might be less hassle to have a puncture. But with tubeless at least you control the timing of when you have to put some effort (and money) in, versus an unexpected puncture.

 

[CXRAndy]

https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/comment/is-the-tubeless-system-flawed-for-narrower-tyres-497374

Snippet:
Latex-based sealants will typically last around three months – but in hot conditions this can be as little as just one – before needing to be topped up again. This extra layer of maintenance – combined with the issues dried up lumps of latex can cause with the balance of your wheels at high speeds – means that tubeless on the road can end up just not being worth the trouble.

Call me crazy, but it might be less hassle to have a puncture. But with tubeless at least you control the timing of when you have to put some effort (and money) in, versus an unexpected puncture.

Honestly , that may be just bullsh!t marketing. I've only changed my sealant every couple of years. Just put in plenty when first installing. I normally put in minimum of 75mil for 25mm tyres and 150mil for 40mm+ tyres.

 

[Capital_Singer]

got my Gain M30 today and there is no way anyone can say it's not a damn good looking bike!

seem to be having a slight problem with tightening the stem onto the steerer , I can't seem to get it to tighten. the stem bolts are tight, but it you hold the wheel and give the bars a jerk then the stem spins around on the steerer.
I've put a bit of the assembly paste on. had a look in the instructions but all I can see is a generic picture of an old 1990's quill stem and it simply says "tighten this bolt"🤷‍♂️

 

[Pale Rider]

got my Gain M30 today and there is no way anyone can say it's not a damn good looking bike!

seem to be having a slight problem with tightening the stem onto the steerer , I can't seem to get it to tighten. the stem bolts are tight, but it you hold the wheel and give the bars a jerk then the stem spins around on the steerer.
I've put a bit of the assembly paste on. had a look in the instructions but all I can see is a generic picture of an old 1990's quill stem and it simply says "tighten this bolt"🤷‍♂️

You shouldn't need to do it, but a shim made from a Coke can would probably give you the extra grip required.

 

[carpiste]

You shouldn't need to do it, but a shim made from a Coke can would probably give you the extra grip required.

The sugar free type obviously!

 

[youngoldbloke]

got my Gain M30 today and there is no way anyone can say it's not a damn good looking bike!

seem to be having a slight problem with tightening the stem onto the steerer , I can't seem to get it to tighten. the stem bolts are tight, but it you hold the wheel and give the bars a jerk then the stem spins around on the steerer.
I've put a bit of the assembly paste on. had a look in the instructions but all I can see is a generic picture of an old 1990's quill stem and it simply says "tighten this bolt"🤷‍♂️

Should be tight at 4 to 5 Nm. Here is the official User Manual

 

[Capital_Singer]

Should be tight at 4 to 5 Nm. Here is the official User Manual

it says 6nm on the stem and yeah it shouldn't spin but it does. it was dry at first and actually seemed to hold better, Well I did 30km and it was at least rideable. when I applied the carbon assembly paste that came in a little sachet I think it actually made it worse it seems to move even easier, feels like if I were to hit a pothole now it would just spin freely and I'd be off! I do actually have a tube of Fenwick's carbon assembly paste which has some fairly large white particles mixed into it I'm going to strip and re assemble using that tonight to see if that's any better. the stuff in the sachet just looked like grease to me🤷‍♂️
failing that it'll be a coke can shim.
I'll measure the steerer & stem with the Vernier callipers to see what they are exactly

 

[Capital_Singer]

Ok I've sorted it. the problem seemed to be the fact that the stem and the steerer are almost the same size and it was impossible to get any of the paste between the 2 surfaces. all the stuff I smeared onto the steerer and the inside of the stem last night had just been pushed down onto the bottom of the steerer🤦‍♂️
so I took the 2 stem bolts right out , and got a small wooden wedge and tapped it in the gap just to open the stem up (by about 1mm), applied a load of the Fenwick's carbon assembly paste and built it all back together, took the wedge out and the tightened the bolts up and it's solid.
seems odd that carbon and aluminium seem to have zero friction between the 2 surfaces without that paste!

 

[Capital_Singer]

1-Is it possible to put a Garmin 520 on the front of it instead of the Pulsar One and be able to see a battery percentage and alter the assist levels?
or does the pulsar one have GPS for putting my rides on strava?

2-Whats required to set the tyres up tubeless? I got another Orbea (Wild FS) earlier this year and it had tubeless rim tape already applied and even came with the valves

3-are the disc rotors 6 bolt or centrelock?

To answer the questions above if anyone is interested..

1. All I have managed to do do far is get the "ebike field" widget from Garmin connect. It shows the battery percentage and current mode on my 520.
Still trying to figure out if more is possible. there is an ANT + dongle available from Orbea but I have only ever seen this thing fitted to 2020 Gains, and have a feeling that it is built in to my one. the info on the website is not really informative at all it poses more questions than it answers.

2. I didn't get ay tubeless valves with the bike so you need to buy valves & sealant

3. the disc rotors are 6 bolt

 

[Scaleyback]

To answer the questions above if anyone is interested..

2. I didn't get ay tubeless valves with the bike so you need to buy valves & sealant

I did answer Ques 2 in my post #1,025

Incidentally when you ask a question and someone takes the time to answer you in whole or part it is good forum 'etiquette' to acknowledge that answer. maybe a thank you or a 'like'