Professional frame repaint

[Andy in Germany]

At some point in the last days my beloved 20-odd year old Raleigh M-trax has caught a right ding on the crossbar, leaving a very slight dent and a chip in the paint down to bare metal.

Whilst I'm quite happy rattlecanning scrap bikes to 'restore' them, I'd like this old lady to have a proper professional paint job: I'd been planning to do this eventually in the distant future but this might speed up the process.

So how do you go about this?

What is the 'best' way to repaint a bike, and possibly what is second best if that isn't available?

How would you go about replacing things like stickers or transfers? I don't need perfect reporductions but I want something that shows the bikes heritage.

Do car spraying places spray bikes, and is that a good option?

 

[Kempstonian]

Lots of Raleigh decals here: https://h-lloyd-cycles.myshopify.com/collections/raleigh?page=1

I have a spray shop near me which normally does car repairs but they would also spray a bike frame. You could remove the old paint yourself or get it sand blasted (saving you a lot of work!). I just had a frame sand blasted and given a coat of primer... and I'm now having it poweder coated. Total cost about £50 (£15 for blasting, £10 for primer and £25 for powder coat). For comparison, I was quoted £80 for spraying the primered bike in a single colour by the spray shop, so that would be a total of £105 if I took that route.

 

[alicat]

I got a bike powder-coated. It's a classy finish and I worry less about dings now.

 

[12boy]

I have had 3 Imron spray coats and three powder coats on different bikes. The Imrons were done by a frame builder and were by far the best cosmetically although not nearly as tough as the powder coats. The powder coats were cheaper than the Imrons, but nothing is cheaper than DIY. How much does the dent bother you? They can be filled with Bondo and spray painted but I don't think the Bondo can tolerate the powder coat baking process. I have done some DIY coats myself and learned after priming and sanding bare or rusty spots and scuffing the good there was no need to strip the frame, although a purist would surely puke at that idea. I have spilled amber shellac on aluminum and once dry it is hard to remove but very easy to add a new coat to. I have often thought it could be interesting to strip and shine a frame and then use amber or garner shellac, or perhaps a mix (to get orange) as the finish. If scraped or scratched it is very easy to touch up. Because shellac is alcohol soluble I just keep brushes in a Mason jar of 90% alcohol and pull them out to dry when needed. Very easy and quick. I have always wondered if the lacquered Brompton frames use shellac and I certainly like their look. Here in the States premixed shellac only comes in clear, amber and garnet, although mix-your- own may have other colors.

 

[Andy in Germany]

thanks for the replies, that's all rather encouraging.

Lots of Raleigh decals here: https://h-lloyd-cycles.myshopify.com/collections/raleigh?page=1

Unfortunately they don't have the decals for the M-trax range, which doesn't surprise me as almost no-one seems to have heard of it, let alone know about it.

I think I'd have to get custom decals made, which isn't impossible as I can use a computer design programme, but I think I'd probably go for a more modern interpretation, especially as I was never entirely happy with the originals.

I have a spray shop near me which normally does car repairs but they would also spray a bike frame. You could remove the old paint yourself or get it sand blasted (saving you a lot of work!). I just had a frame sand blasted and given a coat of primer... and I'm now having it poweder coated. Total cost about £50 (£15 for blasting, £10 for primer and £25 for powder coat). For comparison, I was quoted £80 for spraying the primered bike in a single colour by the spray shop, so that would be a total of £105 if I took that route.

That's a lot less than I expected, although I suspect locally the labour costs would be higher, but I don't begrudge them that as I'd not want to do the job.

I got a bike powder-coated. It's a classy finish and I worry less about dings now.

Any pics?

One question though, I don't mind losing decals but with sand blasting or powder coating, how do I avoid the "Raleigh" badge being damaged?

 

[si_c]

thanks for the replies, that's all rather encouraging.

Unfortunately they don't have the decals for the M-trax range, which doesn't surprise me as almost no-one seems to have heard of it, let alone know about it.

I think I'd have to get custom decals made, which isn't impossible as I can use a computer design programme, but I think I'd probably go for a more modern interpretation, especially as I was never entirely happy with the originals.

That's a lot less than I expected, although I suspect locally the labour costs would be higher, but I don't begrudge them that as I'd not want to do the job.

Any pics?

One question though, I don't mind losing decals but with sand blasting or powder coating, how do I avoid the "Raleigh" badge being damaged?

Give H Lloyd Cycles a ring rather than scanning their website - they had the decals for the Pug I had resprayed on file even though it wasn't on the website. I think it was Nick that I dealt with - from what I remember about the conversation they can make the decals if you provide photos.

 

[Andy in Germany]

I have had 3 Imron spray coats and three powder coats on different bikes. The Imrons were done by a frame builder and were by far the best cosmetically although not nearly as tough as the powder coats.

Good to know the powder coat is solid, if I can find a place to do it, and be sure the badge will not be damaged I'll go for that. are bikes not powder coated when new then?

How much does the dent bother you? They can be filled with Bondo and spray painted but I don't think the Bondo can tolerate the powder coat baking process.

The ding is tiny, so small, in fact that I suspect filler wouldn't hold. I'm more worried about the damaged paint (aesthetically and because of the danger of rusting) and I doubt it would even be visible under a fresh coat of paint.

I have done some DIY coats myself and learned after priming and sanding bare or rusty spots and scuffing the good there was no need to strip the frame, although a purist would surely puke at that idea.

If you've any tips for the other project, let me know...

 

[Andy in Germany]

Give H Lloyd Cycles a ring rather than scanning their website - they had the decals for the Pug I had resprayed on file even though it wasn't on the website. I think it was Nick that I dealt with - from what I remember about the conversation they can make the decals if you provide photos.

Useful stuff, thanks.

I'm not optimistic though as even the mighty google can't find much about the M-trax range...

 

[roadrash]

when I had the Raleigh twenty powder coated I drilled out the rivets on the headtube badge and removed it , you can get replacement rivets here..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pack-of-...bb43:m:mcwkOlI4IInhLgaswBXlbwA&frcectupt=true

 

[Andy in Germany]

when I had the Raleigh twenty powder coated I drilled out the rivets on the headtube badge and removed it , you can get replacement rivets here..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pack-of-...bb43:m:mcwkOlI4IInhLgaswBXlbwA&frcectupt=true

I can't see any rivets on mine: I always assumed it was soldered on.

 

[roadrash]

scrap that idea then

 

[alicat]

Here are some pics of mine. The powder-coating is two tone so the bike sparkles in different colours from different angles.

 

[roadrash]

looks really nice @alicat , heres the twenty I had powder coated, I was really pleased with the results ..
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/restoration-twenty.148038/ #post-2888250

 

[Andy in Germany]

@alicat as you say a very nice finish indeed. How did you get the gold details?

scrap that idea then

I'm guessing that means that powder coating it out- unless I want a green badge...

 

[roadrash]

There will be a way to remove the headbadge, just need to find out how its attached