Quick release & attaching/detaching turbo trainer.

[nrosko]

The plan was.
never owned a bike.
A.would buy turbo trainer & bike in winter.
B.get used to gears etc on turbo trainer & get fitter during winter using the trainer.
C.spring starts to go outside on the bike but still keep training.

Problem is going outside is fine but i would like to still keep up the turbo training as this is more structured & somewhat harder.
But b4 i bought all this i didn't count on it being so awkward to attach the trainer & attach the wheel or even detach it. i'm fiddling around with it for 20 minutes or so & getting covered in oil worried i'm about to break something.

Am i making a meal of this? I struggle with the gears & the disc brake, for me there is nothing fast about it.

 

[screenman]

Not sure what you are doing but I can set my bike on the turbo in a minute or two, this includes removing the front wheel and clamping that in.

 

[Heltor Chasca]

I have a Wahoo Kickr which is a wheel on smart trainer. As upthread it takes a minute or two to set up.

What turbo have you got?

 

[Specialeyes]

Remember to leave both front and rear derailleurs in their smallest cogs before switching (assuming you have a direct drive trainer of course). That helps with alignment and provides the rear derailleur the maximum amount of movement away from the dropouts. You can then ease it gently away by the body or the cage while manoeuvring the bike into place. It will become second nature.

Also, if you find that the gear changes aren't super-smooth when going from turbo to wheel or vice-versa, it may be that the 2 cassettes' positions relative to the rear derailleur are slightly different. A judiciously applied shim on the trainer hub might overcome this without the need to fiddle with the barrel adjuster every time to line up the indexing.

 

[Mugshot]

Get another bike, leave one in the trainer all the time

 

[screenman]

Get another bike, leave one in the trainer all the time

That is what I have been doing for over 25 years.

 

[nrosko]

That is what I have been doing for over 25 years.

Yeah that isn't a bad idea, i could get a cheap second hand bike.

 

[nrosko]

Remember to leave both front and rear derailleurs in their smallest cogs before switching (assuming you have a direct drive trainer of course). That helps with alignment and provides the rear derailleur the maximum amount of movement away from the dropouts. You can then ease it gently away by the body or the cage while manoeuvring the bike into place. It will become second nature.

Also, if you find that the gear changes aren't super-smooth when going from turbo to wheel or vice-versa, it may be that the 2 cassettes' positions relative to the rear derailleur are slightly different. A judiciously applied shim on the trainer hub might overcome this without the need to fiddle with the barrel adjuster every time to line up the indexing.

yes i do have it on smallest cog but only the rear. I should mention its a elite direto. Sound like i just need to practice, i'm not really used to either machines & almost worried im going to brake something. I did notice i needed to adjust the barrel.