Rear Derailleur - Lower Jockey Wheel Screw Loose

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Rooster1

I was right about that saddle
I have a rather high mileage 9 speed Shimano Ultegra Rear Derailleur and the Lower Jockey Wheel retaining screw will not tighten or bite.

As a result, the jockey wheel was only held by the one (outer) side and was not locked in to the inner side.

It had worked loose.

If I remove the lower jockey wheel altogether (for the purposes of seeing what is wrong) I can tighten the screw, but with the jockey wheel in place - the first few turns of the thread have worn down and stripped.

I've tried different screws.

Should I just replace the mech, or just the side of the cage - or is it scrap ?

We are only talking a tenner for a replacement.

thanks
 

vickster

Legendary Member
I’d get a new one if it’s done good service and there’s little price difference :okay:
 

Brandane

Legendary Member
Location
Costa Clyde
My suggestion, as a short term bodge (or leave it as long term depending how anal about your bike you might be) would be to use a self locking nut and bolt of a suitable diameter and length. Effectively you are using the nut as a replacement for the threads on the cage, and the bolt will need to be slightly longer than the existing one to reach the nut threads. Not too long of course, or it might foul the spokes in the bigger sprockets!
Edit - or put the nut to the outside, away from the wheel....
 
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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
See what the thread is like on the inner cage. You can buy longer Jockey wheel bolts. Had this issue with a SRAM mech - the lower jockey bolt wasn't long enough for my liking - never went all the way through the inner cage, so ordered longer ones off SJS Cycles - now sorted.
 
OP
OP
Rooster1

Rooster1

I was right about that saddle
I did think about adding a nut the other side. I will give it a go, failing that I will replace the whole mech
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Replacing the screw with a bolt 3mm longer and, as @Brandane said, a self-locking (ie nyloc or similar) nut will do in the short term. Have a care not to compress the cage plates against the tension jockey wheel bushings/side. The nut will not threaten the spokes since it's at the bottom of the cage. There's been a recent thread on here on replacing a cage, if that's the OP's preferred way to go rather than taking @vickster's advice to replace the RD.
 
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Colin Grigson

Bass guitarist - Bad News
Location
Slovakia
For the sake of £10 just buy a new one .... your time messing about with it must be worth more than that, if it fails subsequently while you’re out you’ll be spitting blood - I know I would.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Sorry, @Colin Grigson . I now see the OP suggested 'a tenner' for a replacement. Make that 'vingt+'.
 
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OP
Rooster1

Rooster1

I was right about that saddle
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