Secondhand Raleigh Junior Rigid MTB: lemon or worth a punt?

[Rusty Nails]

Neither - I have centre pull brakes on this. Just being difficult, like...

I've actually been looking at separate levers & shifters, still working things out, as it's nuts how many bits are out of stock right now. Am in no hurry though. I'd rather get this right than simply diving in.

Either way, the current brake levers have got to go regardless - they're the plastic covered wire ones, and it's disconcerting that the levers flex when applying pressure. I was just about to swing for some junior MTB Tektro ones, but I don't mind holding off for now.

Rear dropouts are 130, so a freehub is possible. Another 24 inch wheelset might not be the easiest to come by though., the other option would be to put new hubs onto these wheels. Am also toying with converting to QR skewers.

Really appreciate the offer of help / ideas

Those 'centre-pull' brakes are cantis (or cantilever brakes).

I have a pair of old metal canti brake levers (Lee Chi make) in the shed. Old but sound and solid, and you can have them for free if you want, just give a couple of quid to charity to cover my postage.

 

[Reynard]

Those 'centre-pull' brakes are cantis (or cantilever brakes).

I have a pair of old metal canti brake levers (Lee Chi make) in the shed. Old but sound and solid, and you can have them for free if you want, just give a couple of quid to charity to cover my postage.

OK, well every day is a school day here on CC!

This is the current set-up. The calipers do look ok, and hopefully a service and clean should sort them though. But thanks, I'll bear you in mind if there is an issue with these ones.

 

[Rusty Nails]

OK, well every day is a school day here on CC!

This is the current set-up. The calipers do look ok, and hopefully a service and clean should sort them though. But thanks, I'll bear you in mind if there is an issue with these ones.

View attachment 536199

The cantis will be fine, but those levers always make braking feel spongy.

 

[raleighnut]

OK, well every day is a school day here on CC!

This is the current set-up. The calipers do look ok, and hopefully a service and clean should sort them though. But thanks, I'll bear you in mind if there is an issue with these ones.

View attachment 536199

V-brakes will fit onto those bosses fine if you chose to go with the 7 speed freewheel and use the combi levers offered earlier (that's what I've done with a couple of my bikes)

 

[Reynard]

The cantis will be fine, but those levers always make braking feel spongy.

Yeah, they do. They're a bit bendy when you pull on them. But when the blocks finally "bite" on the rim, the brakes themselves are ok.

V-brakes will fit onto those bosses fine if you chose to go with the 7 speed freewheel and use the combi levers offered earlier (that's what I've done with a couple of my bikes)

Oh. That's worth investigating.

 

[Reynard]

Just off on a bit of a tangent from brakes and going back to the beginning of the thread re gearing and the discussion with @SkipdiverJohn I ran some numbers through Sheldon Brown's calculator regarding my four bikes:

Wiggins Rouen road bike: 650c wheels, 46-34 up front and an 11-30 on the back.
Wiggins Chartres hybrid: 26" wheels, 44-32-22 up front and 11-34 on the back
Emmelle Leopard: 24" wheels, 48-40 up front and 14-28 on the back
Raleigh Max: 24" wheels, 42-34-24 up front and 14-28 on the back

This converts to the following ranges in gear inches

Rouen: 101 - 27.6
Chartres: 99 - 16.1
Leopard: 82.3 - 34.3
Max: 72 - 20.6

This underlines exactly what I was trying to say without knowing how to put it into numbers.

I'm reading up like mad and learning a heck of a lot in a very short space of time!

 

[Rusty Nails]

V-brakes will fit onto those bosses fine if you chose to go with the 7 speed freewheel and use the combi levers offered earlier (that's what I've done with a couple of my bikes)

Tbh, although cantis can work well, I prefer v-brakes and you do get a better choice of reliable lever/shifters if you go 7-speed.

 

[Reynard]

Looks like where I go with this build hinges on whether I can go 7-speed.

I can't argue with the logic of better / more reliable components should it prove to be achievable.

So it'll be out with the tape measure in the morning. Though I'll hold up my hands and say that the bike was a bit of an impulse buy even though I'd had a nebulous idea of doing something like this for a while.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I did make a comment about the chainset possibly being lower geared than the common 28/38/48 triple, and i would agree that the 42T big ring is probably a bit small given the wheels are only 24".
Any particular reason to go for a 7 speed flywheel rather than a 6? I've got a 13-30 7 speed on one MTB and I actually prefer the 14-28 6 speed ratios! I never use the 13T when in the 48T ring with 26" wheels, and the next rear sprocket is 15T. The 13T just adds a higher ratio that I never use.

 

[Reynard]

I did make a comment about the chainset possibly being lower geared than the common 28/38/48 triple, and i would agree that the 42T big ring is probably a bit small given the wheels are only 24".

The difference really stands out when you do the maths, doesn't it? New junior mountain bikes have similar low gearing. Oddly though, my Emmelle, which dates from the mid 80s according to the serial number on the derailleur, has gearing that's much more realistic - and useable. The biggest gear on there equates more or less to what I'd be using on the flat when it's not too windy. When the wind gets up (and there's nothing to stop it out here) then granny gears are required!

I have an FSA 46T outer ring, spider and cranks amongst my bits, so there is potential there.

Any particular reason to go for a 7 speed flywheel rather than a 6? I've got a 13-30 7 speed on one MTB and I actually prefer the 14-28 6 speed ratios! I never use the 13T when in the 48T ring with 26" wheels, and the next rear sprocket is 15T. The 13T just adds a higher ratio that I never use.

Yes, trigger shifters!

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

Yes, a 72" top gear is a bit limiting and if the 46T chainwheel will fit OK then it would give a more sensible ratio set up.
The trigger shifters on my 1991 Raleigh MTB are integral with the brake levers, and clamp them to the bars (Shimano 200GS) The one for the FD packed up irreparably so I disconnected it and currently run it on the middle 38T ring as a 7-speed. I was warned by the seller the front shifter was temperamental, so it came as no surprise. It's only a local knockabout so it is adequate. If you do go for 7 speed triggers it's worth investigating what the parts availability is like. My own view is indexed thumb shifters will probably have much better long term availability as they are simpler and cheaper to manufacture..

 

[DCBassman]

Whereas I look at some of those low-gear figures and think, "that'll do nicely!". My 700c roadie has 20.something (30-36), with the Trek mtb 26" at 19.5" (28-36).
It's geogeraffy, innit? Lumpy round here!

 

[Rusty Nails]

The difference really stands out when you do the maths, doesn't it? New junior mountain bikes have similar low gearing. Oddly though, my Emmelle, which dates from the mid 80s according to the serial number on the derailleur, has gearing that's much more realistic - and useable. The biggest gear on there equates more or less to what I'd be using on the flat when it's not too windy. When the wind gets up (and there's nothing to stop it out here) then granny gears are required!

I have an FSA 46T outer ring, spider and cranks amongst my bits, so there is potential there.



Yes, trigger shifters!

A slight word of warning about changing the crankset. You may find that your existing bottom bracket will need changing as different chainset are often designed for different BB spindle lengths.

It can be an expensive minefield when you start changing components on a bike.

 

[Reynard]

Whereas I look at some of those low-gear figures and think, "that'll do nicely!". My 700c roadie has 20.something (30-36), with the Trek mtb 26" at 19.5" (28-36).
It's geogeraffy, innit? Lumpy round here!

Whereas here it's flat, but we do tend to do a good line in arrow-straight roads and Dutch Hills. And then, those granny gears aren't half welcome.

 

[Reynard]

A slight word of warning about changing the crankset. You may find that your existing bottom bracket will need changing as different chainset are often designed for different BB spindle lengths.

It can be an expensive minefield when you start changing components on a bike.

Noted.

When I get the cranks off, I'll measure that and see.