Secondhand Raleigh Junior Rigid MTB: lemon or worth a punt?

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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
1st rule of engineering..... if in doubt give it a clout

I thought it was...

If it moves and it shouldn't, then duck tape, if it doesn't move and it should, then WD40 :laugh:

Mind, I really do like bashing stuff. Preferably with an Instron. ^_^ Did you know that when you break sandwich composites, it sounds like a gun going off? I used to frighten the bejeesus out of my research colleagues by not telling them. :crazy: No wonder no one liked to book lab time at the same time as me... :whistle:
 

12boy

Guru
Location
Casper WY USA
You might want to put some frame saver in the frame. There are some that leave a polymer coating that are good for those places you can get into, and you can use wd40, Boeshield, boiled linseed oil and other more liquid products in places like chainstays. Squirt some in and rotate the frame in different directions to get it to coat it all. Once dry this will create a rust barrier. I'd particularly treat the rusty BB innards. Just sayin....
 
OP
OP
Reynard

Reynard

Guru
You might want to put some frame saver in the frame. There are some that leave a polymer coating that are good for those places you can get into, and you can use wd40, Boeshield, boiled linseed oil and other more liquid products in places like chainstays. Squirt some in and rotate the frame in different directions to get it to coat it all. Once dry this will create a rust barrier. I'd particularly treat the rusty BB innards. Just sayin....

I'm doing this as I go along anyway (with WD 40) as it's good practice and it makes things easier further down the line. Just like adding a smear of grease to all threads on reassembly. :smile:

As best I can see, the inside of the frame isn't bare metal. Looks like it's got some kind of primer / undercoat on the inside of the tubes. The rust was on the exposed threads, but nothing a good clean and grease couldn't solve.
 

DRM

Guru
Location
West Yorks
I thought it was...

If it moves and it shouldn't, then duck tape, if it doesn't move and it should, then WD40 :laugh:

Mind, I really do like bashing stuff. Preferably with an Instron. ^_^ Did you know that when you break sandwich composites, it sounds like a gun going off? I used to frighten the bejeesus out of my research colleagues by not telling them. :crazy: No wonder no one liked to book lab time at the same time as me... :whistle:
So do small electrolytic capacitors when hidden inside a 13amp plug connected between the live & neutral, Elf n safety have put an end to jolly japes such as this, 2nd rule of engineering... with regard to pivot points & fitting axle pins, never stick your finger in where you wouldn't put your, erm. man bits
 
OP
OP
Reynard

Reynard

Guru
So do small electrolytic capacitors when hidden inside a 13amp plug connected between the live & neutral, Elf n safety have put an end to jolly japes such as this, 2nd rule of engineering... with regard to pivot points & fitting axle pins, never stick your finger in where you wouldn't put your, erm. man bits

Given how capacitors work, I can quite believe that. :laugh:

As for the latter, given that I am not in possession of those particular items of anatomy, I shall take your word for it and just stick to watching where I put my digits. ;)
 

DRM

Guru
Location
West Yorks
Given how capacitors work, I can quite believe that. :laugh:

As for the latter, given that I am not in possession of those particular items of anatomy, I shall take your word for it and just stick to watching where I put my digits. ;)
Ah but regardless of gender, it acts as a good reminder that trapping your finger damn well hurts, never mind slicing it off if something slips!!!
 
OP
OP
Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Ah but regardless of gender, it acts as a good reminder that trapping your finger damn well hurts, never mind slicing it off if something slips!!!

Of course. And remembering that safety precautions are there for a damn good reason. :okay:

Although, believe it or not, there are people whose job it is to work out all the ways someone can get a Darwin Award for even things like basic tools and appliances so that warnings can be put on packaging etc. Because people *will* try stuff.
 

12boy

Guru
Location
Casper WY USA
Back in the day bikes had a little washer that hooked into the forks so someone like me who forgot to tighten axle nuts didn't have a Discouraging Experience that generated a hefty lawsuit. Then those were discontinued in favor of a liitle lip on the end of fork which required loosening the QR or axle nut another 1/4 inch or so. We call those "lawyers lips" around these parts.....
 
OP
OP
Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Managed to remove the grips from the bars without trashing them. One slid off pretty easily, while the other needed a bit of easing with the help of a flat screwdriver. They are still eminently serviceable, so will eventually go back on while I decide whether to swing for Ergon grips or simply go for bar ends. The plastic end plugs are rather chewed, so those will be replaced.

Shifters and brake levers slid off the bars without dramas after loosening some allen bolts. I've left everything attached to the cables for now, and those that go on the left have been tied with a red zip tie and those that go on the right with a green one.

The bars are a bit battered, with a few gouges that go well into the metal where things were perhaps over-tightened. I've cleaned all the dirt and goo off them and sanded the rough bits down. Again, they'll go back on for now while I decide how to tweak the cockpit, but are a good candidate for being replaced, if only because they'll look manky on a nice clean bike.

The bolt for the stem is a tad stuck. I don't think it's seized - just like a lot of the things on this bike, it's likely not been touched for a couple of decades, so it will probably just want plenty of WD40 and a bit of time. The rust on the stem is superficial, so once I've managed to remove it, a good clean and maybe a coat of that anti-rust stuff that turns black when it's dry should sort that out.

What sort of stem should I be expecting @raleighnut @SkipdiverJohn - a quill stem of some kind?

Seatpost came out with no dramas either. I knew it was OK as I had it out the other day to get the original saddle and clamp off. It has a spacer collar thingy (what's the correct term for that?) around 2 inches in height that fits between the post and the frame. Like the bars, the post is rather tatty, so it will go at some point, but again, I will put it back for now when I reassemble the bike. It's an inline post, but when I rode it previous week, I had the saddle as far back as it would go and it wasn't quite right, so a new post with a layback clamp will likely be what's needed.

As I couldn't do the stem and headset, the time set aside for that was spent peeling off the eye watering decals instead. They weren't in that great a shape anyway, torn and scuffed etc and actually disintegrated into small pieces as I was pulling them off. I've only left the ones on the seat tube as they're pretty discreet and the sticker from the bike shop that's on the down tube. I may change my mind about that last one, as it's rather knackered as well.

To be honest, even with the glue residue still in situ, the frame looks SO much nicer with all the decals gone, much less childish and more like a proper bike. That shade of light cadmium red is actually really rather fetching.

And with all the bits nearly off it, the frame is surprisingly light, for all that it is steel. And yes, the seat tube is also coated with that primer stuff that was also inside the BB shell.
 

DRM

Guru
Location
West Yorks
If the stem bolt wont release the quill stem, a sharp tap with a drift & a hammer in the centre of the allen head bolt should free off the wedge, allowing you to remove it, I've also pulled the stickers off mine & it looks so much better without the scuffed, hideous 90's design.
Measure the diameter of the seat post & the stem as I think they may be an oddball size, I'm sure others can advise more accurately

View: https://youtu.be/yM90mfrjkUA
Also spray some WD40 onto the sticker glue and a rag, the glue residue will come off quite easily.
 
OP
OP
Reynard

Reynard

Guru
If the stem bolt wont release the quill stem, a sharp tap with a drift & a hammer in the centre of the allen head bolt should free off the wedge, allowing you to remove it, I've also pulled the stickers off mine & it looks so much better without the scuffed, hideous 90's design.
Measure the diameter of the seat post & the stem as I think they may be an oddball size, I'm sure others can advise more accurately

View: https://youtu.be/yM90mfrjkUA
Also spray some WD40 onto the sticker glue and a rag, the glue residue will come off quite easily.


Thanks for the tip for releasing the stem, I'll try that in the morning. :okay:

Count yourself lucky, the stickers on adult Raleighs of similar vintage are pretty tame in comparison. :laugh: I had large amounts of dayglo orange and neon green mixed with navy blue. On a bright red frame. Eugh!!! :stop:
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
The Park Tool video is very instructional, although I prefer the ones done by the severe bloke with the moustache. He doesn't look like he would stand for any nonsense from anyone!. I reckon they must have lifted that background soundtrack off a 70's porn flick though! :laugh:
When shifting stuck stems I prefer to whack the stem itself rather than just the bolt. The method shown by the Park Tool bloke will drive the expander out, but it won't necessarily shock the quill loose if it's gummed up with muck or corrosion. What I tend to do is undo the headset locknut so I can lift it out of the way, then spray penetrating fluid down the gap between the steerer tube and the stem. If time permits, I'll leave it to soak for a day or two. When applying percussive force I use a large rubber mallet directly, or a steel hammer with a piece of hard wood or scrap metal interposed to prevent the stem being marked. Some MTB stems can be very stubborn to dismantle if the bike has been immersed in wet mud and left to dry like that. I had a real fight with one that lasted a few weeks of sprayings and bashings before I beat it into submission.
Oh, another thing, it's much more effective to place the frame on the ground with the fork ends and BB resting on a hard surface, as you can really drive some impact into the stem to shock it loose that way. Bike workstands tend to be a bit wobbly and reduce the effectiveness of the hammer blows.
 
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12boy

Guru
Location
Casper WY USA
Never use force....get a bigger hammer. Great progress. Love to see the frame stickerless. Looks quillish to me. There are pseudo Ergons for much less, but the Ergons are nice , for sure.
 
OP
OP
Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Never use force....get a bigger hammer. Great progress. Love to see the frame stickerless. Looks quillish to me. There are pseudo Ergons for much less, but the Ergons are nice , for sure.

I'll take some photos tomorrow. Well, later today, but I haven't gone to bed yet. :laugh:

Ergon GP2 grips came fitted to the hybrid I bought S/H from a forum member last year. I wasn't sure about them at first, but they've really grown on me.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
I'd never hit the stem with the forks on the ground, I'd do it with the front wheel in, my method would be to undo the centre allen bolt a few turns then whack it with a copper/hide mallet, leaving the front wheel in means you can grip it between your legs whilst you wiggle the stem loose.

Oh and @DRM is right, the stem may be a funny Raleigh size.
 
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