Setting up MTB shoes

[bobsinatra]

Hi

I have my first set of clip in shoes.

I just wanted to check my understanding of the set up is correct. I have attached a video of the pedals I have and the shoes.

There is no real play in the shoes, but I work out where the ball of my foot is compared to the cleat, and then tighten the cleats in this position using an Allen key.

Any other tips appreciated, hopefully it won't be too difficult to get myself set up correctly.

View: https://youtu.be/drXYXf09u4U

View: https://youtu.be/Shl8sc6rTVc

 

[vickster]

You also need to angle the cleats in or out depending on how your feet pronate. Sit on a table, hang your feet, relax and see if your feet point in, out or straight and then position the cleats accordingly, it may only be a tiny bit but it’s important for comfort in knees and ankles when clipped in.
Also set the pedal tension as the lowest to start with (toward the - on both sides of pedals if double sided clips)

 

[bobsinatra]

You also need to angle the cleats in or out depending on how your feet pronate. Sit on a table, hang your feet, relax and see if your feet point in, out or straight and then position the cleats accordingly, it may only be a tiny bit but it’s important for comfort in knees and ankles when clipped in.
Also set the pedal tension as the lowest to start with (toward the - on both sides of pedals if double sided clips)

Thanks for that Vickster.

With these shoes, it doesn't look like you can manipulate the angle, the movement allowed looks minimal.

I have never tweaked the pedal tension, as I have only ever cycled in trainers. I will try to work that out.

 

[vickster]

Thanks for that Vickster.

With these shoes, it doesn't look like you can manipulate the angle, the movement allowed looks minimal.

I have never tweaked the pedal tension, as I have only ever cycled in trainers. I will try to work that out.

It’ll likely only need to be minimal unless you really are pigeon toed
the pedals will have a small Allen key hole for changing the tension, with + / - at either end

 

[Shreds]

First off, I would fit the cleats on the shoes then whilst static or with the bike on a “trainer”, rotate the cranks, and you may need someone experienced to help you here, if they are not tightened to absolute max, you may be able to cause the cleat to adapt to any slight distortionate angle your foot has.

Then tighten them down and go ride.

If you feel any pain in your feet, ankles, knees or hips, then stop and make minor adjustments.

This may take some time, possibly up to 500 miles of fine tuning in the extreme, but once you find comfort, stick with it and make sure the cleats are very tight at that point.

 

[bobsinatra]

First off, I would fit the cleats on the shoes then whilst static or with the bike on a “trainer”, rotate the cranks, and you may need someone experienced to help you here, if they are not tightened to absolute max, you may be able to cause the cleat to adapt to any slight distortionate angle your foot has.

Then tighten them down and go ride.

If you feel any pain in your feet, ankles, knees or hips, then stop and make minor adjustments.

This may take some time, possibly up to 500 miles of fine tuning in the extreme, but once you find comfort, stick with it and make sure the cleats are very tight at that point.

Thanks for that, if it is relatively technical, I could go into a bike shop and see if they can help me get set up correctly.

 

[Shreds]

An experienced bike mechanic should easily be able to assist or even someone experienced in a bike club. I often see cyclists on the road, and its obvious their saddles pedals or bars are not set up correctly. Having the “eye” for such things is experience combined with discussion feedback from the user.

Good luck.

(And get used to “unclipping” one foot in advance as you approach junctions, lights or obstructions. It avoids the horizontal landing! Dont worry everyone does but preparation is everything and helps minimise injury)

 

[bobsinatra]

An experienced bike mechanic should easily be able to assist or even someone experienced in a bike club. I often see cyclists on the road, and its obvious their saddles pedals or bars are not set up correctly. Having the “eye” for such things is experience combined with discussion feedback from the user.

Good luck.

(And get used to “unclipping” one foot in advance as you approach junctions, lights or obstructions. It avoids the horizontal landing! Dont worry everyone does but preparation is everything and helps minimise injury)

Yes I often see people on bikes too small for them.

With these shoes, you can only adjust the cleat position by about 1 to 2cm so I don't have much room for manueve.

The only room for movement I guess will be the pedals.

 

[Shreds]

You will be surprised how much difference a few mm will make.

Maybe chalk dust or otherwise get your shoes to be marked by the pedal, so you can see where the horizontal centre line of the cleat should be on the shoe.

 

[ColinJ]

@vickster is right about the release tension settings... I always set mine to minimum so I can be sure to unclip in a hurry when I need to (e.g. when coming to a dead stop on a 25% climb!). I have never had the problem of accidentally unclipping so I don't see any need to increase the tension settings.

I fitted a new pair of double-sided SPD pedals to one bike and started lowering the settings but got distracted. I didn't realise that I had missed doing one side of one pedal. I went off on a ride and all was well until I came to a steep hill and went to unclip but couldn't... Fortunately, I fell towards the side that HAD unclipped so I managed to get a foot down.

 

[bobsinatra]

First off, I would fit the cleats on the shoes then whilst static or with the bike on a “trainer”, rotate the cranks, and you may need someone experienced to help you here, if they are not tightened to absolute max, you may be able to cause the cleat to adapt to any slight distortionate angle your foot has.

Then tighten them down and go ride.

If you feel any pain in your feet, ankles, knees or hips, then stop and make minor adjustments.

This may take some time, possibly up to 500 miles of fine tuning in the extreme, but once you find comfort, stick with it and make sure the cleats are very tight at that point.

When you say fit the cleats, do you mean that I need to buy MTB cleats?

I was under the impression that I tightened the 4 recessed holes and then I could clip in.

I think now I realise that I also need to buy separate cleats, this is all new to me.

 

[bobsinatra]

These are the shoes

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/giro-cylin...SjLDvr7A7-Iw5E2nl7cGMlQT5SxYJV_oaAlamEALw_wcB

 

[Ming the Merciless]

You need these for your shoes

https://www.tweekscycles.com/shiman...id=t&msclkid=7bb7871ff73d134afd9ad8b81a85ebf5

Plus your saddle may need to be higher with your spd shoes on.

 

[bobsinatra]

You need these for your shoes

https://www.tweekscycles.com/shiman...id=t&msclkid=7bb7871ff73d134afd9ad8b81a85ebf5

Plus your saddle may need to be higher with your spd shoes on.

Thanks that is great, I will order those.

Once they are in place, do they fix in the 4 recessed black holes or do I fix these in position prior to attaching the cleats?

 

[Landsurfer]

get the cleats fitted to the 2 bolt holes under the ball of your foot, do not excessively tighten the bolts, set the pedal tension to low, ride for about 10 miles... if no discomfort finally tighten up the cleat bolts in your shoes ... your feet tend to find their own place .... don't over think it ..... KISS