Snapped spindle

[classic33]

@silva, how about chucking the shovel out of the hole?

 

[silva]

Yawn, that's your view, and not the view of most other folk on here that know a bit about bikes.

Why should I share a view of most others on a certain place?
It's not that I receive bucks by promoting or criticizing the Lightweight sport cheat drive. All I share was my findings on the matter, which brought me back to square taper, to avoid the cost and the hassle. That's a legit reason, no?

 

[silva]

@silva, how about chucking the shovel out of the hole?

Your question is too wide interpretable to be sure what to answer.
As a first general guess, I'd say that a shovel has finished when the hole is deep enough.
In metal, a drill is easier, and I drilled the hole in the steel block part of my chain breaker kit to such a depth that I can't hammer the chain links pen completely out of the last link plate on the other side.
Because it's pretty hard to hold such a small long thing and the rest in place to hammer it back in.
See, I don't throw away the excess parts of the 1/4" Regina 420 motorcycle chains.
I keep them until I have enough to assemble the required 105 links.
My 3rd last chain was such an assembly, and it did the job like the others did before and after.
See, that's a benefit of such thick link plates, one can hammer a pin back, something you won't try with the fragile cut out (for the Lightweight Religion) link plates.
I also did that with Gussets 3/16" bicycle "tank" model chain, also with no problems.
Instead of binning what is too much, I use it, and avoid a counter passage

 

[Webbo2]

Your question is too wide interpretable to be sure what to answer.
As a first general guess, I'd say that a shovel has finished when the hole is deep enough.
In metal, a drill is easier, and I drilled the hole in the steel block part of my chain breaker kit to such a depth that I can't hammer the chain links pen completely out of the last link plate on the other side.
Because it's pretty hard to hold such a small long thing and the rest in place to hammer it back in.
See, I don't throw away the excess parts of the 1/4" Regina 420 motorcycle chains.
I keep them until I have enough to assemble the required 105 links.
My 3rd last chain was such an assembly, and it did the job like the others did before and after.
See, that's a benefit of such thick link plates, one can hammer a pin back, something you won't try with the fragile cut out (for the Lightweight Religion) link plates.
I also did that with Gussets 3/16" bicycle "tank" model chain, also with no problems.
Instead of binning what is too much, I use it, and avoid a counter passage

Maybe use the shovel to dig yourself out of the hole you’ve dug yourself it to.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I've learnt a few things here tonight other than why not to feed wild animals.
Can anyone recommend a good hammer and chisel? I need to remove the HT2 BB from my LWR (/LIghtweight Revolution) carbon bike with a 15-sproket and motorbike chain. Like the one in my avatar.
Shall I go for ball-peen? sledge? club? cold? bolster?

 

[C R]

I've learnt a few things here tonight other than why not to feed wild animals.
Can anyone recommend a good hammer and chisel? I need to remove the HT2 BB from my LWR (/LIghtweight Revolution) carbon bike with a 15-sproket and motorbike chain. Like the one in my avatar.
Shall I go for ball-peen? sledge? club? cold? bolster?

Jack, that way you don't need a separate chisel.

 

[Drago]

Oh yes @silva , square taper never fails.

 

[silva]

I've learnt a few things here tonight other than why not to feed wild animals.
Can anyone recommend a good hammer and chisel? I need to remove the HT2 BB from my LWR (/LIghtweight Revolution) carbon bike with a 15-sproket and motorbike chain. Like the one in my avatar.
Shall I go for ball-peen? sledge? club? cold? bolster?

Already asked here - are you also the kinda binary slayer that either slams with all power available, either lays down the hammer gently, with nothing inbetween?
One can freely choose a hammer, and a force, to a need.

I also already asked before, no answer yet, if one wants to rout out the chance of a tube breaking, one can redesign its wall thicker, as to provide a larger strength safety margin, to cope with any human leg power / weight cases.
Just a thicker wall for the tube.
For ex, instead of 130 grammes weight win relative to square taper, 110 gram weight win = 20 grammes extra steel to distribute the torsion force > stress over, as to stay safe below the treshold to formation of a defect.

It's also an idea to concentrate that extra material only around a specific position on the circumference: https://www.dajinprecision.com/customize-cnc-turning-aerospace-parts/eccentric-hollow-shaft
With in this bicycle application that position related to the left cranks position where most riders force peaks (pedal position, what is it, 60°? to the vertical).
It could add abit to the manufacturing cost, but Safety Goes First, they say, and a sudden pedal axle breaking, or a crank delaminating, is a recipe for disaster.
The first time my Octalink left crank came loose, was early in the going up of a bridge, so force not that much more. But if it had happened on its hardest place, and in a return with luggage, I could have made an ugly smack.
Ofcourse, that then served as a warning, so I regularly stopped to see if I could tension the bolt, thereby seriously reducing the risk of it coming loose while riding.

You stated earlier that this happens one in a million, and that what is reported on the internet is not representative for the whole, which can be true, but that crank delaminating story also went from a few via alot to so many that Shimano was forced to do something (recall) to calm down the unrest in its public. Much like car makers, for a one in a million.
If the argument Safety Above All is used elsewhere (including food, animal flu and so on, where entire production batches or cattle are destroyed), bikes branche shouldn't be an exception. A similar such developing story was/are the cargo bikes.
And, the delaminating hollow crank story didn't start with their introduction, since the reported ones didn't start there, indicating, or even proving, that Shimano changed
something "on the way". The same can apply to these spindle breaks. Who knows what they all changed during the production over the years - they didn't publish it for the crank case.
Which is rather disturbing, since it means that instead of thoroughly testing design/material changes, Shimano uses its customers as lab monkeys to test effects of drugs on.

 

[silva]

Jack, that way you don't need a separate chisel.

As said, I reuse a cilinder from a worn beyond allowed cilinder bearing, to make my motorcycle chain on length.
It's ridiculous to buy a tool if you can find one in the old metal bin.
The dealer that replaced my HT2 axle just like me also didn't use a dedicated tool, and he did the job well, as no problem showed up, unlike the dealer that sold me the bike and did all repairs, until I put an end to the series of fails he had build up over the decade. But dealers are not as numerous here as they were in a past - it's not that I have much choice.

With the last one of his fails on the bike being after telling me he had just found a solution (I had asked for 6 months earlier!) to raise the handlebar (my knees voided it in sharper turns), and after work finished, pay, riding away, the next road speed bump I had the handlebar loose in my hand and went diagonally over street to crash into a hedge (though I was happy with the hedge since something harder would have been more painful).
I walked back, guess what, his first reaction was a laugh on his face.
I told him that the overlap he left was clearly less than the min specified, and what next, his answer was that he had no alternative than putting what he replaced back / undo what he had done. And take into account: it was he himself that phoned me that he had found a solution. Also, he told me that the new handlebar pen came from the rear handlebar of a tandem bike, so one of his many reuse old/unsold parts regardless and without informing/asking customer on forehand..

The next weekend after that disaster, I visited, for the first time, this other dealer I talked about here, that later replaced the HT2 axle.
At his counter I asked if he knew a longer mount pen to get the handlebar higher.
He tapped some keys on his keyboard, went to a website, placed an order, and done. All in a minute.
A week later, he send a message that I could come to have it mount.
And indeed, the problem was solved.
So you can imagine that this dealer immediately made a much better impression on me than the original dealer of the bike.
But bad luck: this dealer was far from the path I daily ride.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Perhaps Someone way more skilled in AI than eye, can feed @silva 's comments into a machine and ask it to summarise his key points, as I, through my own laziness and lack of comprehension, have completely lost it.
I am content to stick with ST for 'life' but still interested in the newer types of BB and crankset with hollow spindle attached, so I can help others.

 

[C R]

As said, I reuse a cilinder from a worn beyond allowed cilinder bearing, to make my motorcycle chain on length.
It's ridiculous to buy a tool if you can find one in the old metal bin.
The dealer that replaced my HT2 axle just like me also didn't use a dedicated tool, and he did the job well, as no problem showed up, unlike the dealer that sold me the bike and did all repairs, until I put an end to the series of fails he had build up over the decade. But dealers are not as numerous here as they were in a past - it's not that I have much choice.

With the last one of his fails on the bike being after telling me he had just found a solution (I had asked for 6 months earlier!) to raise the handlebar (my knees voided it in sharper turns), and after work finished, pay, riding away, the next road speed bump I had the handlebar loose in my hand and went diagonally over street to crash into a hedge (though I was happy with the hedge since something harder would have been more painful).
I walked back, guess what, his first reaction was a laugh on his face.
I told him that the overlap he left was clearly less than the min specified, and what next, his answer was that he had no alternative than putting what he replaced back / undo what he had done. And take into account: it was he himself that phoned me that he had found a solution. Also, he told me that the new handlebar pen came from the rear handlebar of a tandem bike, so one of his many reuse old/unsold parts regardless and without informing/asking customer on forehand..

The next weekend after that disaster, I visited, for the first time, this other dealer I talked about here, that later replaced the HT2 axle.
At his counter I asked if he knew a longer mount pen to get the handlebar higher.
He tapped some keys on his keyboard, went to a website, placed an order, and done. All in a minute.
A week later, he send a message that I could come to have it mount.
And indeed, the problem was solved.
So you can imagine that this dealer immediately made a much better impression on me than the original dealer of the bike.
But bad luck: this dealer was far from the path I daily ride.

It was a joke.

 

[fossyant]

I've learnt a few things here tonight other than why not to feed wild animals.
Can anyone recommend a good hammer and chisel? I need to remove the HT2 BB from my LWR (/LIghtweight Revolution) carbon bike with a 15-sproket and motorbike chain. Like the one in my avatar.
Shall I go for ball-peen? sledge? club? cold? bolster?

Big, just go for anything big.... I wont go into the hammer envy me and a camping mate have for putting in tent pegs. He's a builder and I lose. Big very big.

 

[fossyant]

It was a joke.

Goes over his head unfortunately.

If that's the bike he rides in his avatar, I will definately ignore any of his musings about bike components.

 

[fossyant]

Perhaps Someone way more skilled in AI than eye, can feed @silva 's comments into a machine and ask it to summarise his key points, as I, through my own laziness and lack of comprehension, have completely lost it.
I am content to stick with ST for 'life' but still interested in the newer types of BB and crankset with hollow spindle attached, so I can help others.

No AI needed. He talks nonsence

 

[silva]

It was a joke.

The One Allen Key For All Hollow Technology 2 and Beyond was also a joke.