or a bent hanger
So, this might have happened... NBD - 2016 Fuji Touring workhorse
- Thread starter wafter
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or a bent hanger
Thanks both.
As I think I've posted elsewhere I've done my best to check hanger alignment, although this was hampered by a couple of factors - the fact that the paint on the hanger has chipped across the majority of the hanger (so no longer provides a flat / square register face for the tool) and potentially the cheap tool itself.
I'm tempted to take all the paint off that area to give a flat face, but am very much aware that this would mean running it unprotected as anything I apply is just going to get crushed / chipped by the RD.
I guess it's also possible that something more fundamental is at fault (the bike has had a new rear rim in the past - potentially due to accident damage) although I've not spotted anything glaringly obvious in the bike's behaviour / fitment of parts / whilst working on it that would suggest this.
Finally just to summarise the situation regarding relevant components and what's been done (with no longstanding difference apparent after any of the changes):
Cable outers: Replaced with new in areas of tightest rads (under bar tape from bar end shifters)
Cable inners: Replaced with new; hanging up / creep seems unlikely since ghost shifts happen in both directions
Shifters: Original; Creep seems unlikely since ghost shifts happen in both directions
Rear derailleur: Replaced with new
Cassette: Original, doesn't appear excessively worn, assume that if it was it'd be skipping as well..
Chain: Replaced, same behaviour with both half-worn (apparently) original and new replacement
Perhaps somewhat oddly the replacement derailleur (Shimano FD-M592-SGS from a reputable UK supplier) feels similar to the original (Shimano FD-M591-SGS) in terms of component movement - with a bit of slop in the parallelogram and maybe a couple of mm lateral float in the top jockey wheel. By contrast the GRX 810 item on my Genesis seems to have none of this movement...
Finally this isn't "just something that non-indexed shifters do", is it? I can understand a late / delayed shift if it's not quite aligned, ticks for a bit and finally makes the jump... however it's not right that it just shifts of it's own accord potentially minutes after the lever's been operated is it?
bikingdad90
Guru
It isn’t something stupid like the cable routing on the frame itself like the incorrect bottom bracket cable guide or when you flex the frame under load it is crimping/catching the cable?
Depending on the hub speed, it isn’t missing a spacer on the cassette and the cassette is moving under load?
Depending on the hub speed, it isn’t missing a spacer on the cassette and the cassette is moving under load?
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Thanks - feck knows tbh but I appreciate the suggestions!
AFAIK the BB guide is original with no obvious points of restriction; while I don't think it's related to frame-flex as it does it both under load and when just wafting along with little force at the pedal.
I did suspect the cassette; although there appears to be zero float / play present. The problem has been consistant in the near-4k miles I've put on the bike - which I think rules out sprocket wear as I'd imagine it'd be unuseable due to skipping by now.. on top of that I think it's all pretty low-mileage (original tyres when I bought it, probably original chain too at about 50% worn).
I do have a spare cassette but am not sure I can be arsed with the faff of swapping it all over; I guess it could rule out another component however.
When I changed the RD I also swapped back to the original inner cable (since the run is shorter and I didn't want to crimp the replacement I had been using inboard of its previous clamp-point in case I wanted to refit the original RD). I'd waxed this, which retrospectively might not be the best lube against the outer's synthetic liner...
Since a number of things have changed I've again been trying to note the circumstances under which the problems occur.
One definite example was a surprise shift up (to a smaller sprocket) just after down-shifting to hit a small hill; so I guess this could have been due to slop / creep in the shifter (being pulled to the necessary point to shift to the gear it was initially in, then "relaxing" / creeping back to allow the gear to shift to the next smallest) however IME it takes quite a lot of lever displacement to actually shift, and I've not noticed this much (or indeed any) movement of it's own volition.
I don't think cable drag could be responsible for this one since it had already been pulled enough to select the larger sproket, if this makes sense.. while I could understand this argument had it happened after an upshift.
I also had another couple of nasty ones under high load (although thankfully at low speed) - cadence and speed were that low that I'm not sure whether the two near-consecutive jolts could be attributed to a shift between sprockets or the chain skipping on the cassette.
Tbh this is really starting to piss me off now - it was much less of an issue when I was covering all of about 10 sedate miles a week on the bike; now I'm doing double that in a day it's breeding a lot of mistrust in the bike and making it feel really unrefined; which is a shame as it's a real pleasure to ride otherwise.
Maybe I'll pile all the necessary bits into the car and swap the cassette at the weekend; just in case.
